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What glue to use?

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What glue to use? Empty What glue to use?

Post  looperdude Sat Sep 21, 2013 7:16 pm

im building a guillows p-51d mustang, its my first real airplane build, what i need to know is if CA will work for gluing the thin balsa?
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Post  Cribbs74 Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:15 pm

Yes it will work. Just don't use it in any areas you need to be strong, like the firewall.

There are also other glues that will work well if you are not sold on CA.

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Post  looperdude Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:18 pm

thank you.
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Post  pkrankow Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:34 pm

Wood glue is a good choice, use a tiny brush. Wood glue is a good choice for doublers, you can block and weight and leave overnight. (My Dad used white glue on a lot of his planes, but switched to Ambroid or Testor's when these adhesives became more available.)

Testor's Wood and Metal cement is celluloid and a good choice. Ambroid is a similar product.

Slower versions of epoxy are actually stronger than faster versions. 30 minute seems a good balance between cure time and durability. Faster flavors are more brittle, in a general sense. Epoxy is possibly the best choice for motor mounts, and maybe doublers too.

CA is fast, strong, and effective. It also glues skin instantly and burns the eyes if used without adequate ventilation. I really want to switch from using CA but keep using it because of the very low cure time.

Phil
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Post  JPvelo Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:54 pm

I recently switched from ca to titebond wood glue for about 95% of my building and I love it.

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Post  Ken Cook Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:58 am

The construction of Guillows kits is typically formers and stringers. CA gives you absolutely no working time, so if you have some stringers that are tight in the formers this could be problematic if it doesn't seat correctly. CA doesn't sand well either. This is very problematic for stick and tissue models as you could easily break the formers when sanding.  My biggest complaint with CA however is what it actually does to the balsa. It creates a stress riser fore and aft of the glue joint. The balsa becomes so hard in that area it breaks on each side of the joint.I do prefer Titebond or Sig Bond (yellow) for stick and tissue models. Used sparingly they work well but the water in the glue can warp light weight structures. One way to fix this is to spritz the model with water while it's pinned to the table prior to removing it. This sometimes needs to be overcompensated and pinned and resprayed with water.  Glues like Ambroid, Testor's , Duco actually are flexible. Unlike water based glues, they have less of a tendency to warp the structure and they provide enough strength to do the job. Solvent based glue however smells bad, and it's not a cure all for keeping the framing straight.The solvent based glues however sand far superior to any other glue and this makes them an excellent choice for certain areas.  They will  shrink as they dry and they can easily warp thin pieces. These glues take time to dry and instant gratification isn't going to happen as these adhesives sometimes need to be glued, let to dry, sanded lightly then glued again and pinned until dry. The bottom line is that no one particular glue is the answer and it would certainly be best to have all of the above on hand and choose wisely where to use them. Ken
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Post  RknRusty Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:03 pm

Any one of my models has four different types of glue in its construction; Titebond, celluloid, CA, and epoxy.
My favorite use for CA is tacking a part in place to be glued with Titebond. Curved center sheeting is a good example of this use.

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