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Post  dankar04 on Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:32 pm

Hoppes #9 solvent available at gun shops/ sports centers/ Wall-Mart etc. Brass .45 cal works perfect. Let it soak then run brush through several times. Clean piston by scrubing with solvent. Do this outdoors. I would use rubber gloves stuff is made to remove gun powder. Use short handle for brush. Brushes come with threads for cleaning rod.
clean up/ oil engine after you put it back together. You may have some loss of compression but just run it. You have removed built up coating on liner.
Dan Flying Flying
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Post  nitroairplane on Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:38 pm

Cool does it still contain nitrobenzine?
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Post  PV Pilot on Thu Nov 10, 2011 1:53 pm

Hoppes #9 nitro solvent is a excellent cleaner, but be very wise with some of the other gun cleaning supplies you see on the shelf, some of those will remove hardened surfaces and etch into metal (as designed to do so).

Birchwood Casey gun scrubber is a very aggressive aerosol cleaner that absolutley will melt some plastics into a puddle of goo and it has been known to remove gun blueing from some metals coated with such. Even tho it says it will not on the can,,it does,. believe me.

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Post  dankar04 on Thu Nov 10, 2011 3:07 pm

I have used Hoppe's for years on all my engines that needed cleaning. No problems but be careful. If you are not into cleaning just use denatured alky. Hardware stores carry this as Drug stores but you need to ask for it. lol!
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Post  SuperDave on Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:10 pm

I would use a firerm cleaning patch saturated with Hoppe's #9 gun solvent to clean an engine bore but NOT bristle bore-brush designed to clean a firearm bore which also cleans the riflings cut into the barrel.
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Post  PV Pilot on Thu Nov 10, 2011 7:59 pm

SuperDave wrote:I would use a firerm cleaning patch saturated with Hoppe's #9 gun solvent to clean an engine bore but NOT bristle bore-brush designed to clean a firearm bore which also cleans the riflings cut into the barrel.

I threw all of my bronze bore brushes away many,many years ago and now only use the nylons.
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Post  jetpack on Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:00 pm

If your out to buy a nylon bristle to help clean, the 4/10 size is what you need it will be the perfect size.
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Post  dankar04 on Fri Nov 11, 2011 11:36 am

Brass brush is much softer than a STEEL cylinder and you only need to do this ever so often. I guess a patch is fine. Overkill on some replies hey it was something I use and it works fine.
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Post  SuperDave on Fri Nov 11, 2011 11:58 am

BTW, in pinch I've been known to use Gum-out automotive carburetor/fuel injection cleaner with good results to clean nitro engine parts.
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Post  gcb on Fri Nov 11, 2011 5:42 pm

Have you tried running fuel with half castor and half synthetic lube?

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Post  SuperDave on Fri Nov 11, 2011 7:14 pm

gcb wrote:Have you tried running fuel with half castor and half synthetic lube?

George

What about nito content? Shocked

Castor oil and synthetic oil wouldn't inginite worth a ding-dong. lol!
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Post  microflitedude on Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:16 pm

SuperDave wrote:
gcb wrote:Have you tried running fuel with half castor and half synthetic lube?

George

What about nito content? Shocked

Castor oil and synthetic oil wouldn't inginite worth a ding-dong. lol!

Heh heh, good one. Very Happy
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Post  nitroairplane on Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:47 am

I used to run that but i prefer full castor.
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Post  dankar04 on Sat Nov 12, 2011 1:37 pm

Castor is a pain but protection it gives is awesome. I add a little sync. oil to mix but most is castor. Some Hoppes #9/ heat gun for monocote/ some rags/ alky and go to go. I like Cox engines but my best favorite is Holland Hornet. 049/.051's. I have one H/H that was custom fitted and modified with special nva. Came with two extra head bottons. This was long before Nelson/ Merlin etc. Extra nice engine and pride of my 1/2A fleet. Flying
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