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Post  Fireball Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:43 am

Downloaded from the internet. Cox Medallion w/throttle control muffler. Pressure feed fuel system, ping pong ball mounted in the wing, balloon pressurizes the fuel feed.
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Post  RknRusty Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:34 am

Pretty nice little scratch build. Where'd you find a balloon small enough to blow up inside a ping pong ball? What kind of run time are you getting.

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Post  Fireball Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:44 am

I cut up some aluminum tube, cut pieces of the type balloon they tie into shapes, wrapped and tied mono fishing line several times around that.
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Post  roddie Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:06 pm

Very nice! I like the streamlining!! What type of covering did you use on the wing?
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Post  Fireball Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:29 pm

Thanks to both of you.  Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer& Dope on 000 silkspan, then rattle can gloss Rustolium.  Can't use flat, it's not hot fuel proof. RknRusty, I've not run the engine yet. I picked it up off ebay and had to decide if I was going to use the .049 Medallion, Black Widow or a Golden Bee. I chose the Medallion as not to make the nose too long.
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Post  roddie Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:47 pm

Fireball wrote:Thanks to both of you.  Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer& Dope on 000 silkspan, then rattle can gloss Rustolium.  Can't use flat, it's not hot fuel proof.
This raises a question for my paint-choice on my Speed Contest model. Rattle-cans of Rustoleum gloss-white (with the stops rust badge) and Rustoleum gold-metallic (with the bright coat badge) are what I'm planning on... but I'm concerned about compatability between the two... and if compatible; whether the "gold" will need a clear (stops rust badge) top-coat, to make it fuel-proof.

The "gloss-white" contains Xylene/Acetone... where the "metallic gold" contains Xylene/Toluene.
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Post  SuperDave Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:04 pm

Roddie:

If you have any doubts I suggest you first EXPERIMENT with a finish before applying it.

SD
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Post  JPvelo Wed Nov 20, 2013 2:19 pm

roddie wrote:
Fireball wrote:Thanks to both of you.  Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer& Dope on 000 silkspan, then rattle can gloss Rustolium.  Can't use flat, it's not hot fuel proof.
This raises a question for my paint-choice on my Speed Contest model. Rattle-cans of Rustoleum gloss-white (with the stops rust badge) and Rustoleum gold-metallic (with the bright coat badge) are what I'm planning on... but I'm concerned about compatability between the two... and if compatible; whether the "gold" will need a clear (stops rust badge) top-coat, to make it fuel-proof.

The "gloss-white" contains Xylene/Acetone... where the "metallic gold" contains Xylene/Toluene.
I've had good luck with white, metallics are not fuel proof. I know Ron shoots clear lusterkote over rustoleum, I would assume that seals it.

Jim
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Post  Fireball Wed Nov 20, 2013 2:25 pm

I've also read clear Rustoleum is not hot fuel proof like the flat. Only the gloss. I can not speak for the bright or prevents rust badges. You can put the Rustoleum on Aero Gloss but, you can't put Aero Gloss on Rustoleum.
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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Nov 20, 2013 2:40 pm

I have never even tried to see if Rustoleum is fuel proof on it's own. Some say yes and some say no. I decided to err on the side of caution and just shoot TF clear over it like Jim mentioned.

For 5-6$ a can it's cheap insurance and it works very well. Be sure your Rustoleum is good and cured before you spray it on though.

Ron
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Post  JPvelo Wed Nov 20, 2013 2:42 pm

Fireball wrote:I've also read clear Rustoleum is not hot fuel proof like the flat.  Only the gloss.  I can not speak for the bright or prevents rust badges.  You can put the Rustoleum on Aero Gloss but, you can't put Aero Gloss on Rustoleum.
I've tried clear rustoleum and it's a mess.

Jim
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Post  pkrankow Wed Nov 20, 2013 3:31 pm

I hope you tested the ping pong ball for fuel resistance...

I haven't tested clear or flat. I have clear "Painter's Touch" to test...but warm weather might need to happen first.

Nice looking baby Ringmaster.

Phil
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Post  Fireball Wed Nov 20, 2013 4:05 pm

We used the ping pong balls years ago and they were then. I hope their made the same.
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Post  RknRusty Wed Nov 20, 2013 4:12 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:I have never even tried to see if Rustoleum is fuel proof on it's own.  Some say yes and some say no. I decided to err on the side of caution and just shoot TF clear over it like Jim mentioned.

For 5-6$ a can it's cheap insurance and it works very well. Be sure your Rustoleum is good and cured before you spray it on though.

Ron
I use plain Rustoleum non-metallics on some things I'm not particular about and it appears to be pretty fuel resistant and unharmed by exhaust goo. There's a little color on the rag when I clean it with alcohol, so that's telling. But so far, on my oldest Baby Streak and my Shoestring where there are some unprotected painted repairs, neither fuel from exhaust or many many cleanings has made it look bad, and it's still glossy and doesn't melt or stay soft.

But like Ron says, it's best to spray some TF LustreKote over it, especially where you might spill raw fuel on it. Do it in light applications or it will orange peel the paint, even after weeks of curing in front of a furnace vent. And warm it with hot air or in a pot of hot water until the can is very hot, and it will flow beautifully. I do that with the Rustoleum and the LustreKote, and get nice glassy finishes.

The bare metallics and color changing Rustoleum are instant puke on contatact with fuel.

Rusty

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Post  roddie Wed Nov 20, 2013 6:49 pm

RknRusty wrote:
Cribbs74 wrote:I have never even tried to see if Rustoleum is fuel proof on it's own.  Some say yes and some say no. I decided to err on the side of caution and just shoot TF clear over it like Jim mentioned.

For 5-6$ a can it's cheap insurance and it works very well. Be sure your Rustoleum is good and cured before you spray it on though.

Ron
I use plain Rustoleum non-metallics on some things I'm not particular about and it appears to be pretty fuel resistant and unharmed by exhaust goo. There's a little color on the rag when I clean it with alcohol, so that's telling. But so far, on my oldest Baby Streak and my Shoestring where there are some unprotected painted repairs, neither fuel from exhaust or many many cleanings has made it look bad, and it's still glossy and doesn't melt or stay soft.

But like Ron says, it's best to spray some TF LustreKote over it, especially where you might spill raw fuel on it. Do it in light applications or it will orange peel the paint, even after weeks of curing in front of a furnace vent. And warm it with hot air or in a pot of hot water until the can is very hot, and it will flow beautifully. I do that with the Rustoleum and the LustreKote, and get nice glassy finishes.

The bare metallics and color changing Rustoleum are instant puke on contatact with fuel.

Rusty
Thanks guys... it may be worth building a small sealed "curing enclosure" with a couple of old-fashioned light bulbs inside; to raise the temperature and seal-out dust while the paint dries... could probably control the temp with a dimmer switch on the light bulbs.

I'll definitely try the TF LustreKote clear as a final sealer... That's really what I needed to know.

Thanks again guys,
Rog
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Post  JPvelo Wed Nov 20, 2013 7:10 pm

roddie wrote:
RknRusty wrote:
Cribbs74 wrote:I have never even tried to see if Rustoleum is fuel proof on it's own.  Some say yes and some say no. I decided to err on the side of caution and just shoot TF clear over it like Jim mentioned.

For 5-6$ a can it's cheap insurance and it works very well. Be sure your Rustoleum is good and cured before you spray it on though.

Ron
I use plain Rustoleum non-metallics on some things I'm not particular about and it appears to be pretty fuel resistant and unharmed by exhaust goo. There's a little color on the rag when I clean it with alcohol, so that's telling. But so far, on my oldest Baby Streak and my Shoestring where there are some unprotected painted repairs, neither fuel from exhaust or many many cleanings has made it look bad, and it's still glossy and doesn't melt or stay soft.

But like Ron says, it's best to spray some TF LustreKote over it, especially where you might spill raw fuel on it. Do it in light applications or it will orange peel the paint, even after weeks of curing in front of a furnace vent. And warm it with hot air or in a pot of hot water until the can is very hot, and it will flow beautifully. I do that with the Rustoleum and the LustreKote, and get nice glassy finishes.

The bare metallics and color changing Rustoleum are instant puke on contatact with fuel.

Rusty
Thanks guys... it may be worth building a small sealed "curing enclosure" with a couple of old-fashioned light bulbs inside; to raise the temperature and seal-out dust while the paint dries... could probably control the temp with a dimmer switch on the light bulbs.

I'll definitely try the TF LustreKote clear as a final sealer... That's really what I needed to know.

Thanks again guys,
Rog
I don't know, sounds an awfull lot like an easy bake oven to me.

Jim
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Post  Ken Cook Wed Nov 20, 2013 7:36 pm

I use this paint extensively anymore. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it right. The finishes I've achieved though have been incredibly nice. I use nitro for the majority of my 1/2A's in the 40-50% range and I found this paint to withstand raw fuel directly on it. Very little paint is required but it takes a series of coats to attain depth and coverage. Approx 5-6 coats. This paint defies all other paints in terms of using it. It shines better on humid days whereas the others would blush or turn milky white on you. It can be recoated prior to the first coat being dry. It goes on with a sponge brush. I use distilled water to thin the paint.

One thing I found out the hard way. I was cleaning the sponge brushes in soapy water typically dish detergent. These soaps are highly concentrated and almost impossible to rinse out of the sponges. Soap reduces the surface tension of water as well. When the paint was being applied it would go on beautifully and minutes later it was just running off due to the reduced surface tension in the water.

It does take a lot of practice but it can be thinned with water. I've used the water based epoxy primer which sands beautifully. I've yet to see a dope finish stand the test of time where this stuff does. Jerry Nelson was the owner and this is when I purchased my product, since then John Diselets purchased the business and I've yet to purchase from him. We have exchanged e-mails however and I'm due to buy some more. For those interested, it practically has no smell, dries in a few minutes. I've flown the following day. http://www.nelsonhobby.com/hobby_paint.php Ken
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Post  roddie Wed Nov 20, 2013 8:39 pm

Ken Cook wrote:         I use this paint extensively anymore. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it right. The finishes I've achieved though have been incredibly nice. I use nitro for the majority of my 1/2A's in the 40-50% range and I found this paint to withstand raw fuel directly on it. Very little paint is required but it takes a series of coats to attain depth and coverage. Approx 5-6 coats. This paint defies all other paints in terms of using it. It shines better on humid days whereas the others would blush or turn milky white on you. It can be recoated prior to the first coat being dry. It goes on with a sponge brush. I use distilled water to thin the paint.

One thing I found out the hard way. I was cleaning the sponge brushes in soapy water typically dish detergent. These soaps are highly concentrated and almost impossible to rinse out of the sponges. Soap reduces the surface tension of water as well. When the paint was being applied it would go on beautifully and minutes later it was just running off due to the reduced surface tension in the water.

It does take a lot of practice but it can be thinned with water. I've used the water based epoxy primer which sands beautifully. I've yet to see a dope finish stand the test of time where this stuff does. Jerry Nelson was the owner and this is when I purchased my product, since then John Diselets purchased the business and I've yet to purchase from him. We have exchanged e-mails however and I'm due to buy some more. For those interested, it practically has no smell, dries in a few minutes. I've flown the following day. http://www.nelsonhobby.com/hobby_paint.php  Ken

Ken, I think you mentioned this in short, a few weeks ago... possibly in the thread about Butyrate dope. This product seems like something we should all consider trying... at least.
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Post  GUS THE I.A. Sat Dec 14, 2013 1:06 am

My Super Ringmaster, S-6, is not quite so sticky, now. I cleared it with Rustoleum, and it was in NO WAY fuel proof. (didn't know that, then- the colors I use have been fine.) I used everything to try to remove the clear, and get back down to just the dope! It was not an incompatability problem-it was just that the Rustoleum was not tolerant to fuel, or exhaust. Don't cheap-out! Use the right stuff!
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Post  Tinker Terry Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:44 am

How much does it weigh? And what is the wing area? Will you post the plans? I had one many years ago and am thinking of using the design for an RC.
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