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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 15, 2013 4:41 pm

The pirate theme is not my thing, I want to remove the skull and crossbones off of the wings without destroying the covering underneath. Anybody know of a successful technique?

Ron

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Last edited by Cribbs74 on Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:10 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  pkrankow Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:15 pm

1: do you know what the covering product is?
2: do you have samples of this product to test with?

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148519


Phil
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Post  dckrsn Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:40 pm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O-yy-CU-Vc

Bob
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Post  Mark Boesen Sun Dec 15, 2013 7:17 pm

...but I don't wanna be a pirate!!!!!

lol, classic!

Grab your monokote iron or a hairdryer and a tweezers, get decal warm and start in a corner get it warm to the point you can get the tweezers under decal, keep heat on and gently lift, easy peazy! and you too can be a pirate!!!!

Use acetone or lacquer thinner to clean up any adhesive residue.
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 15, 2013 7:41 pm

pkrankow wrote:1: do you know what the covering product is?
2: do you have samples of this product to test with?

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148519


Phil

No and no, I assume monokote as it looks like the model has some age. It's an original FS.
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 15, 2013 7:42 pm

Mark Boesen wrote:...but I don't wanna be a pirate!!!!!

lol, classic!

Grab your monokote iron or a hairdryer and a tweezers, get decal warm and start in a corner get it warm to the point you can get the tweezers under decal, keep heat on and gently lift, easy peazy! and you too can be a pirate!!!!

Use acetone or lacquer thinner to clean up any adhesive residue.


Thanks Mark, I'll give it a whirl. Sounds easy enough!
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 15, 2013 7:44 pm

dckrsn wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O-yy-CU-Vc

Bob

Bob, you hit the nail on the head! Of course I said it less whiney than Seinfeld.  Very Happy 
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 15, 2013 9:54 pm

It works Mark! A bit tedious, but it works. I have some work to do still.

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Post  RknRusty Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:07 am

Any tiny remaining bits can be picked up pretty easily with a q-tip and acetone. Or maybe even Windex or household ammonia if it's Monokote, since ammonia activates the M'kote adhesive.

Rusty

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Post  pkrankow Mon Dec 16, 2013 2:16 pm

It's nice when things go easily.

Phil
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Post  ian1954 Mon Dec 16, 2013 4:54 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:The pirate theme is not my thing, I want to remove the skull and crossbones off of the wings without destroying the covering underneath. Anybody know of a successful technique?

Ron

Pirate theme?

That is the "Jolly Roger". It is a symbol uses by the Royal Navy and displayed when returning to port following a successful mission.

From World War II we have - HMS Utmost, the Frigate HMS Conn and HMS Storm

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More recently - the nuclear class submarine returning from sinking the Belgrano (formerly the USS Phoenix)

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Post  dckrsn Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:04 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:
dckrsn wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O-yy-CU-Vc

Bob

Bob, you hit the nail on the head! Of course I said it less whiney than Seinfeld.  Very Happy 
Yeah, I was a litttle worried about the whiney-ness when I posted that Ron.  Paranoid 
Bob
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:42 pm

ian1954 wrote:
Cribbs74 wrote:The pirate theme is not my thing, I want to remove the skull and crossbones off of the wings without destroying the covering underneath. Anybody know of a successful technique?

Ron

Pirate theme?

That is the "Jolly Roger". It is a symbol uses by the Royal Navy and displayed when returning to port following a successful mission.

Ian,

Thanks for those pictures. You are correct in that it is used by returning naval folk however, the Jolly Roger has been in use much longer and is traditionally tied to pirate vessels.

Ron


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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:44 pm

dckrsn wrote:
Cribbs74 wrote:
dckrsn wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O-yy-CU-Vc

Bob

Bob, you hit the nail on the head! Of course I said it less whiney than Seinfeld.  Very Happy 
Yeah, I was a litttle worried about the whiney-ness when I posted that Ron.  Paranoid 
Bob

No worries Bob!!!
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:18 am

Ok,

Thanks to Mark I am now rid of the Jolly Roger. I cleaned and tightened the covering and widened the opening between the bearers and mounted an early '63 or '64 Fox 36X straight plug on the nose.

Should make for a wild ride! The plane is totally utilitarian and sports no bells or whistles. I have never been keen on the Flite Streak styling even though they fly exceptionally well. It will make for a fun beater and sport flier.

Ron

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Post  RknRusty Tue Dec 31, 2013 1:35 am

You're gonna love it. That Streak is a really snappy plane. Wayne flies a sharp pattern with his Top Flite Streak, but when he gets playful it will snap a corner so sharp, you'd swear you hear a sonic pop. I try to get him to go wild, but he's usually all business... so not like me. Otoh, that's probably why I've never seen him plow one into the dirt. He's flying it with an LA25.

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Post  RknRusty Tue Dec 31, 2013 1:40 am

I just noticed yours looks like it has a doubler behind the wing. Is that a repair, or was it built that way? I think it's a great idea. Even if it breaks behind it, it will make for an easier repair. Might be worth adding to my planes in the future.

I like the plain wood finish. It would look sharp with a white or silver canopy and a Yellow tail like my BFS II has had. My son Al destroyed it Saturday.

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Post  JPvelo Tue Dec 31, 2013 6:14 am

RknRusty wrote:
I like the plain wood finish. It would look sharp with a white or silver canopy and a Yellow tail like my BFS II has had. My son Al destroyed it Saturday.
Rusty, don't you know not to let the kids drive the nice vehicle? lol! 
Sorry to hear that, it sucks busting up a good airplane.

Jim
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 31, 2013 9:32 am

RknRusty wrote:I just noticed yours looks like it has a doubler behind the wing. Is that a repair, or was it built that way? I think it's a great idea. Even if it breaks behind it, it will make for an easier repair. Might be worth adding to my planes in the future.

I like the plain wood finish. It would look sharp with a white or silver canopy and a Yellow tail like my BFS II has had. My son Al destroyed it Saturday.

No, it's just a camera trick. This thing looks to have been slapped together over a weekend. Probably to compete in a combat match is my guess.

No sanding and just a couple thick coats of dope to seal it up. Here is a picture of the fuse behind the wing.

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Post  RknRusty Tue Dec 31, 2013 11:52 am

I see now. I was just seeing an illusion... or possibly a hallucination.

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:05 pm

RknRusty wrote:I see now. I was just seeing an illusion... or possibly a hallucination.

Stop watching that Machine Gun video!!!!
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 31, 2013 1:53 pm

I decided to fire off the .36X

It cranked pretty quickly except there is either crap in the tank or the NV is leaking too much.

It's powerful.

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Post  Ken Cook Tue Dec 31, 2013 3:22 pm

Ron, I have to ask many questions as some of these are just hard to figure out from the video. I will say this, the tank is small and while it will  run on it, the engine is a thirsty one. Have you used this tank before? Also, have you air tested it?  The engine was really going overlean which sounded certainly like a air leak. The engine at about 54 seconds in the vid is roughly  how it should be running.  Did you install a new plug in the engine? While Thunderbolt R/C longs are my choice for stunt, not the best plug of choice here. It would work but would probably be short lived. I'm a big fan of the Mccoy MC-9 in my combat stuff. Although a cold plug, it works well with 10% nitro.  Also, if this engine had or has oil in it will certainly not run correctly at first. This is a standard procedure for me at least when dealing with ball bearing engines. I store with several drops of Marvel Mystery Oil after a day of flying. It doesn't exactly clear itself out for a few minutes unless I flood the engine with fuel and remove plug and dump it out. Is the spray bar orientated with the hole facing down? Do you have a small piece of tubing on the needle itself cut to size to snug up against the spraybar? I make several sizes and I cut these pieces by placing tubing on a dowel and chucking them in the drill press. I then go at the tubing squarely using a #11 blade. If the insert is loose, it could also cause some funny business. If running on suction, I seal the perimeter of the venturi insert in the case using Permatex rtv. I would also give your fuel just a squirt of Armor All. Have you flown this Streak and when you did where vibrations a issue?  What prop are you using? A 9x6- 9x7? Anything larger and the engine isn't going to be happy. I had some 8.5x6.5 Rev Up's and they worked well with these. I do like the old 8x8's but they do put a lot of load on the engine in the maneuvers. The 8x8's work well on wings. Ken
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 31, 2013 4:07 pm

Ken Cook wrote:Ron, I have to ask many questions as some of these are just hard to figure out from the video. I will say this, the tank is small and while it will  run on it, the engine is a thirsty one. Have you used this tank before? Also, have you air tested it?  The engine was really going overlean which sounded certainly like a air leak. The engine at about 54 seconds in the vid is roughly  how it should be running.  Did you install a new plug in the engine? While Thunderbolt R/C longs are my choice for stunt, not the best plug of choice here. It would work but would probably be short lived. I'm a big fan of the Mccoy MC-9 in my combat stuff. Although a cold plug, it works well with 10% nitro.  Also, if this engine had or has oil in it will certainly not run correctly at first. This is a standard procedure for me at least when dealing with ball bearing engines. I store with several drops of Marvel Mystery Oil after a day of flying. It doesn't exactly clear itself out for a few minutes unless I flood the engine with fuel and remove plug and dump it out. Is the spray bar orientated with the hole facing down? Do you have a small piece of tubing on the needle itself cut to size to snug up against the spraybar? I make several sizes and I cut these pieces by placing tubing on a dowel and chucking them in the drill press. I then go at the tubing squarely using a #11 blade. If the insert is loose, it could also cause some funny business. If running on suction, I seal the perimeter of the venturi insert in the case using Permatex rtv. I would also give your fuel just a squirt of Armor All. Have you flown this Streak and when you did where vibrations a issue?  What prop are you using? A 9x6- 9x7? Anything larger and the engine isn't going to be happy. I had some 8.5x6.5 Rev Up's and they worked well with these. I do like the old 8x8's but they do put a lot of load on the engine in the maneuvers. The 8x8's work well on wings. Ken

Ken,

The plug is whatever came in it. It does have an idle bar.

The tank is a 2oz perfect and is coming off. It was on the plane when I received it and is being used for testing purposes only.

I used a piece of tubing over the NV and even with that the needle is a sloppy fit. Thanks for letting me know the orientation of the hole. It only has one as opposed to the stunt .35 and it was pointing straight up when I received it. I didn't know where to put it so I oriented it toward the front. I will face it down and see how it goes.

Fuel is 10/29. It's what I use for break in seeing as it's akin to syrup. I figured it would be a safer bet just in case something wasn't right with the engine. I will go ahead and try some 25% Cox fuel and see how it goes.

Prop is a 9.5x6, again just being cautious. And I have not flown the Streak yet.

Ron
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Post  Ken Cook Tue Dec 31, 2013 4:22 pm

Ron, the 29% oil could be your problem here. You need fuel with your oil content and this engine is probably disliking it. 20% oil content is all that's required. Run some of your Powermaster 10-22 it will make it nice and happy. In fact, all that oil can instantly take out a plug . You want the hole at the same angle of the stack pointing towards the crank. Ken
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