Model cleaners

I don't think we have a Trader Joe's in these parts. I wonder if Cabela's has a version of it? Or Bass Pro?

It says it has essential oils, here I thought castor was the only essential one!   

Ron:

I'd venture that you a drug store though.   

SD

...lol, these threads quickly become like all the other threads, when there's talk of the best cleaner, best way to do something, best glue, best paint, etc. when the fact is there's always several ways to do something.
I'd try that stuff, if it smells like bourbon it can't be bad!

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Windex-Blue-Refill-2-lt/11027259?action=product_interest&action_type=image&placement_id=irs-srp-1&strategy=PWVAV&visitor_id=59846531018&client_guid=f280c2b2-b5fb-4838-af96-30aa44caae88&config_id=8&parent_item_id=26097126%2C24086609%2C26098610%2C26111683%2C26097434%2C26117232%2C28469940%2C17202427%2C23878233%2C26097477%2C26096490%2C26098280%2C25482108%2C26096830%2C28603319%2C28833898&guid=91aa6fd1-fce6-4b09-a3ec-c1aece623afc&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&findingMethod=p13n

p.s. if you flew electric, you wouldn't need anything! !
Years ago I used isopropyl alcohol, but it seems you need 91%, as the watered down stuff doesn't cut the oil as well and a lot of stores only sell the 70% stuff. Then I found myself dumping the alcohol in the 'windex' and finally the last fifteen years just use the cheapest window cleaner I (my wife) would find.

SuperDave wrote:Ron:

I'd venture that you a drug store though.     

SD

I do, and I have used alcohol successfully before, as well as windex. I certainly like the spray bottle idea.

At any rate as Mark was saying there is more than one way to do things. Alcohol dries out my hands pretty bad so I only use it sparingly. It can also remove finishes.

Ron

SuperDave wrote:As I've mentioned previously about cleaning models I've found Isopropy alcohol works well.  It's about $3/quart at you local drug store.

Apply it with a cotton First-Aid pad for best results.  The "goo" wipes away nicely with the pad.

SD

I'm with Dave
My latest teaching 'victim' is a Quack who brings lots of the stuff they use in his Surgery.
It takes a couple wipes with different cloths but it's the only thing I've
ever found that doesn't leave any rez.
 

I like the essential oil thing tho, first you rub the plane down  then......
 

Like Ron said... some cleaners may attack some finishes... The latest planes I built and flew were finished in TF Monokote... and I kept a round qt. size trigger sprayer filled with automotive w/s washer fluid (Winter-mix...) in my flight-tote. (actually.. it was an old round-style Armor-all spray bottle) At around $1.50/gal. the w/s washer fluid is quite economical... but then again; Monokote is probably one of the easiest finishes to clean.

When I was done flying for the day, I'd cover the engine with a rag.. and spray down the plane. "Bounty" brand paper towels is what I used to wipe-down the model. When a roll in the house got down to almost empty, I'd put it aside for my flight-tote. The "Bounty" brand doesn't fall apart; like cheaper paper towels... but it will "tear" if it snags on something... which is actually good, because something with a stronger weave could break/bend a delicate part if it got snagged.

Roddie

My favorite cleaning rags are cotton T-shirt material that I use to get the dirty gunk off. Then after it's clean, I use the fluffy side of an old sweatsuit rag to shine it up. I usually use full strength alcohol for cleaning, so there is some moisture left behind, especially when it's humid(and it always is). The sweatsuit rags dry it off really well. Another good use for a white or light gray sweatsuit rag is to use for a spot marker in the center circle. It's heavy enough that the wind won't move it.

I tried Windex, but it leaves the wings covered with more wet droplets than alcohol. Be sure your window cleaner isn't the vinegar type. I don't think acetic acid is too good to rub all over a plane and leave it to eat away while you sleep.

Water residue is the reason I clean my steel lines with acetone rather than alcohol. If you use alcohol, I think the lines will eventually corrode from the water the alcohol leaves behind. Especially inside of the wrapped ends.

Rusty

Hasn't this topic been "beat to death" in times past?   

I'd spectulate the even the legendary Hoppes' #9 Gun Cleaning Solvent has model cleaning merit.  

SD