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Stitched Hinges, "Z" Hinges, and Other Old School / New School  Tips Empty

Stitched Hinges, "Z" Hinges, and Other Old School / New School Tips

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Post  Kim Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:41 pm

Rustolium Paint: I remember back in the 80's and 90's that Rustolium Paint, from the non-aerosol cans could be used as a fuel-proof finish. I know I saw at least one photo in Model Aviation or other mag, listing the finish of a model as being Rustolium. Anyone also remember hearing or reading about that?


Last edited by Kim on Mon Nov 14, 2011 9:42 am; edited 2 times in total
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Post  SuperDave Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:14 pm

SSSHHHHHH! (A curse be upon you!)

Hazel Sig & John Brodak
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Post  Kim Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:29 pm

A curse...!...THAT explains to the results of my attempt at making meatloaf!
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Post  SuperDave Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:36 pm

Kim:

Do you know the difference between bad meat loaf and good meat loaf?
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Post  Kim Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:38 pm

Nope !
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Nov 14, 2011 9:43 am

Hinges you say? all I see is paint and meatloaf banter........ lol!
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Post  Kim Mon Nov 14, 2011 9:53 am

cribbs74 wrote:Hinges you say? all I see is paint and meatloaf banter........ lol!

Hey!!! I'm working on it !!!!!
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Post  Kim Mon Nov 14, 2011 9:56 am

Stitched Hinges:
I totally finish the plane, paint and all. On tiny frames like this, you'll need to add a "doubler" inside the frame where the hinges will go. Use some scotch tape to hold the surfaces where you want them and use a fine-tip marker to mark the dots (a little over 1/16' apart) on both sides of the hinge line. I usually use three to each hinge set.

I like to use a dremel tool with a fine number drill the size of the needle I'm using, and drill the holes. I've got a spool of carpet thread I've used for years to stitch hinges. Start the needle from the bottom, and pull a length of thread out the other side. Run the needle through the hinge line and up through the corresponding hole on the opposite side. You want to do figure 8's like this till you finish this hinge.

Gently draw the thread snug as you go (takes some practice), and when you've got a full set of three figure 8's...CAREFULLY touch a drop of thin CA to each of the holes. It will wick down through the thread and into the balsa, and lock the hinges. Cut the thread off flush and move to the next hinge.

You may have to gently work the hinges loose when you're finished, and they gradually loosen up with use, but keep their strength and won't let the surface slip even after years of flying.

Stitched Hinges, "Z" Hinges, and Other Old School / New School  Tips Stitch11

Stitched Hinges, "Z" Hinges, and Other Old School / New School  Tips Stitch12




Hope this might help.


Last edited by Kim on Mon Nov 14, 2011 10:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Kim Mon Nov 14, 2011 9:59 am

You really ought to use fine/medium carpet thread. Upholstery shops have it...used in heavy-duty applications like harnesses and such. DO NOT use cotton sewing thread as it WILL rot and break. If you have trouble locating some, PM me your mailing address and I'll send you some. Also, it's a REAL good idea to practice on a fake set of control surfaces (go ahead and use cotton thread for this). Like acquiring any skill, it may take a little practice to get it right.

Something else I forgot to mention...if the appearance is a problem, you can "Hide Them in Plain Sight" by painting a black box over them. Maybe not true scale in more serious scale planes, but usually good enough with sport planes.
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Post  Kim Mon Nov 14, 2011 10:04 am

Coats and Clark Dual Duty Plus Button and Carpet thread -- available at WallyWorld or any sewing shop.

For small planes, the finer thread works fine. For .15 size and up, I used the heavy duty carpet thread. Generally, it's sold as cotton covered polyester.


Editor's Note: The above posting and possibly some others are from Andrew and various members...I'm too lazy to copy credits too !
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Post  Kim Mon Nov 14, 2011 10:30 am

"Plug Planking Guillows and other Open Frame Fuselages:

One other suggestion...you might consider "plug planking" the fuselage from the cockpit to the firewall. This involves cutting "plugs" of 1/16 and 1/8 soft sheet balsa, coating their edges with cellulose glue, and pushing them in between the stringers and bulkheads. If you use Ambroid or Duco Household cement, it will sand consistently with the wood, AND actually enhance it's scale appearance when finished.

Use the thicker 1/8 plugs on the harder curves, and push them in just enough to get a good gluing service against the frame. Then, carefully sand away the outcropping wood, until it matches the shape of the frame.

This will add very little weight, but will add great strength to the forward fuse. Since that is also the most castor-drenched area, you'll be able to clean it easier with less fear of "rub-cutting" the silkspan along the edges of the stringers.

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Post  Kim Mon Nov 14, 2011 10:35 am

There may be an illustration somewhere in your Guillows instruction sheet...tho maybe it's only included with larger versions.

Anyway, you're just "filling in" the open spaces between the stringers with soft balsa "Bricks", letting them protrude from the frame just a bit, so that you can sand them flush.

This fills in the forward part of the fuse, and REALLY strengthens it. If you use super light silkspan (which is what I'm gonna try if I can get around to building it) on an open frame up around the engine area, it catches a lot of trauma from the hot castor.

Filling it in gives you a moire resilient surface and strengthens the firewall area.

Ron's Spit after "Plug Planking"
https://i.servimg.com/u/f42/17/02/20/74/spit310.jpg

Long ago, I built the Guillow's Fokker Dr-1 as a U-Controller, and did this all around the frontal area. The plane had an amazingly long life, powered by an anemic Wen Mac that gave it very scale flying characteristics.

It does add a little more work, but just thought I'd mention it.


Last edited by Kim on Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:33 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  nitroairplane Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:03 am

Nice tips and nice meatloaf banter Smile
I have never tried meat loaf!
Anyhow i use little hinge strips and they serve me well and give me a use of old shirts!
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Post  SuperDave Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:05 am

Kim:

The different between "bad" meat loaf and "good" meat loaf is LOTS of Heinz ketchup and A-1 steak sauce.

lol!

(Well, at least GWB did what he said he would do so unlike Barry.)






Last edited by SuperDave on Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:09 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  SuperDave Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:05 am

SuperDave wrote:Kim:

The difference between "bad" meat loaf and "good" meat loaf is LOTS of Heinz ketchup and A-1 steak sauce.

lol!




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Post  nitroairplane Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:06 am

Is Meat loaf a loaf of Burger?
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:09 am

nitroairplane wrote:Is Meat loaf a loaf of Burger?

Yep, ground beef with "Fixins" mixed in. I actually really like it. My wife makes a nice meatloaf.
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Post  nitroairplane Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:10 am

cribbs74 wrote:
nitroairplane wrote:Is Meat loaf a loaf of Burger?

Yep, ground beef with "Fixins" mixed in. I actually really like it. My wife makes a nice meatloaf.

Oh sounds odd anyone have a recipe?
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:11 am

Kim wrote:There may be an illustration somewhere in your Guillows instruction sheet...tho maybe it's only included with larger versions.

Anyway, you're just "filling in" the open spaces between the stringers with soft balsa "Bricks", letting them protrude from the frame just a bit, so that you can sand them flush.

This fills in the forward part of the fuse, and REALLY strengthens it. If you use super light silkspan (which is what I'm gonna try if I can get around to building it) on an open frame up around the engine area, it catches a lot of trauma from the hot castor.

Filling it in gives you a moire resilient surface and strengthens the firewall area.

Long ago, I built the Guillow's Fokker Dr-1 as a U-Controller, and did this all around the frontal area. The plane had an amazingly long life, powered by an anemic Wen Mac that gave it very scale flying characteristics.

It does add a little more work, but just thought I'd mention it.

Feel free to drag my pics over covering the process, just use the final sanding version not the "ugly one"
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:14 am

nitroairplane wrote:
cribbs74 wrote:
nitroairplane wrote:Is Meat loaf a loaf of Burger?

Yep, ground beef with "Fixins" mixed in. I actually really like it. My wife makes a nice meatloaf.

Oh sounds odd anyone have a recipe?

Odd? Steak and kidney pie.....need I say more? Actually I love steak and kidney pie Very Happy
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Post  nitroairplane Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:14 am

I love it too but not as much as creamy mushroom and chicken pie MMMMMMMMM.
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Post  SuperDave Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:22 am

nitro;

Meat loaf is a blend of hamberger, sausages, raw egg, onion and oatmeal oven-baked in a glass Purex baking dish @350 degrees.

My wife makes excellent meat loaf and so do I. Sliced left-over meat-loaf makes excellent sandwiches with lettuce, sliced dill pickles and mayo also. I've also used venison and elk with equal results.

YUMMY!
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Post  nitroairplane Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:23 am

You are getting me going!
I wanna try that soemtime soon I am going to make a food thread!
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Post  Kim Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:27 am

The lady I'm seeing is in the restaurant business and loves to cook. She tried her best to teach me to make up a great meatloaf...rounded off all the ingredients to match 1 lb of lean beef...got me to buy a new toaster oven and pans...they all look good, sitting n the cabinets...still there...valiant effort on her part anyway.

Cracker Barrel is a lot faster...with nothing to clean up...
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Post  SuperDave Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:53 am



Cracker Barrel is a lot faster...with nothing to clean up...[/quote]

Burger King is "cheaper" the Cracker Barrel by a whole lot but I enjoy sitting down to eat my lunch rather than have it handed to me in a paper bag to "wolf" down outdoors in the cold.
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