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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Feb 09, 2014 11:06 pm

Since I have been "playing the field" I have decided that I no longer wish to use Spectra lines for my 1/2A.

I am considering switching out for .012 braided steel line. Mostly due to the ease of setting up and storing. I hate knots and tangled lines and when I am ready to fly I want to fly!

I also notice while flying that steel lines have very little wind resistance.

I assume most tip weights were calculated using steel lines as a factor so I don't think I will need to adjust.

Anybody know of a reason not to do this?

Ron
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Post  roddie Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:32 am

Cribbs74 wrote:Since I have been "playing the field" I have decided that I no longer wish to use Spectra lines for my 1/2A.

I am considering switching out for .012 braided steel line. Mostly due to the ease of setting up and storing. I hate knots and tangled lines and when I am ready to fly I want to fly!

I also notice while flying that steel lines have very little wind resistance.

I assume most tip weights were calculated using steel lines as a factor so I don't think I will need to adjust.

Anybody know of a reason not to do this?

Ron

Ron.. I am planning on using "Spyder-Wire" EZ-braid for the first time... for the CEF Speed Contest. I do have Sig .008" stranded stainless on-hand too... but the set-length is short at 35 feet.

I know there won't be any crossing of the lines happening there... but are the synthetic lines hard to manage after a stunt flight? Is there a certain method to winding them back onto their reel after a stunt-flying session? This is a different analogy.. but; when I wrap-up my musical instrument cables after a gig... they have a "coil-memory" that I always conform to. Then again.. I'm not dealing with tangled wire either...

Would it help if you unclipped the lines from the plane... lay the handle on the ground with a "weight" (brick) to hold it down... and grasp both lines in both hands between you fingers... and "walk" them out from the center... to relieve the twists, before you wind them onto the reel? Maybe this recommendation sounds stupid..  Embarassed but sometimes we overlook things when the fun part is over... Our lead-guitar player throws his cables in a bag after a gig... and the next time he needs them... he has to untangle the mess. I'm not implying anything here Ron... I have much less flying experience than you have.

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Post  Ken Cook Mon Feb 10, 2014 4:36 am

Ron, I used to fly with .008's exclusively at least for stunting. They take more care than I care to give them. I found that shrink tube was needed at the terminations due to the constant fraying that would take place. I had several lines break during flight. I switched to .012's and noticed hardly a difference yet the lines lasted a lot longer. However, they do get kinked and will not take the abuse or even come close to what your Spectra provides. Just running the lines out between your fingers can curly Q your lines. Kinks are the death of the lines. One person walking on them is problematic. While they do cut the drag down, Spectra does equally as well UNTIL they start becoming oil soaked. If you never used them I highly suggest you keep a set. Your flying ability has vastly improved and therefore you should own a few sets. I never changed my tip weight in the small stuff but I do in the larger models. You just may see some improvement in response on certain planes. Ken
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Post  RknRusty Mon Feb 10, 2014 11:11 am

Ron and Roddie,
As I've said in other threads, I fly with heavier Spectra than most people, 30# test. It probably has more drag, I don't know. But if so, I have never had a reason to notice it during a flight. My main reason for the heavy line is it won't get tangled with normal care. When I'm finished flying, I just wrap it around my red Sig handle as I walk it to the plane, unclip it, hook the clips together and put a rubberband around the handle. One of my clips is colored with a Sharpie, that's the UP line.

When I set up to fly, I hook up the clips and let the handle dangle as the line unwinds while I walk it out. Make another pass and gently spread them to spin out the twist. Don't hurry or force that part. I have never ever once had a tangle. I always heard that steel wires can reliably loop with up to 5 twists. I've tested that and they will take more. But with Spectra, especially when I was learning and did mostly insiders, I probably put more than a dozen loops in it. I've never had it cause a problem.

I'm still sold on the stuff. Spiderwire and (maybe)Sufix are my brands. Spiderwire is more supple when new. Both get softer and easier to handle after use. I've been using the same three handles of 35, 40, and 45 feet for a few years now. Hmmm... that part is not advice. lol!

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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:23 pm

Rusty,

You may very well be right about line diameter. Your setup is very similar to what I do except I have to keep marking the connector with a Sharpie every so often.

I am going to make a handle change to the Renger version. To do that I will need to make up close to equal length lines. Not that it's a problem with Spectra or anything like that, but steel packs away much neater on a line reel and held on with a rubber band. The other plus is I no longer have to care which line is what when connecting up to the plane. Unreeling line with a cable reel goes very quickly as well.

It's like the old timeless saying "Once you go steel you'll always like the feel"

Ron
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