The Cadet 1/2A model

it's very easy
0. open a comment or quote page.
1. go to the "host an image" icon above 6th from top row right.
2. browse to the file on your computer or from another site, URL.
3. select the pic file.
4. make sure resize to 800px width for forums is selected.
5. click on the "host it" button below the browse-800px-etc area.
6. after a short time there will be a rectangular box with 3 files inside.
7. choose the image and copy and paste the new file to the open comment page.
it should look something like this:

 "url=https://servimg.com/view/17550036/266]..."

the pic will show below





8. preview the page to make sure everything is correct, then send to complete the comment-quote you answered.


hope this helps.

happydad

     " />

And you can watch the lights on your modem and tell that it's uploading. Sometimes it's quick and other times it takes longer to upload. You can only do one at a time. When you're ready for the next one, there is an upload link in the same box you copied your link text from.

I want to build one too. Here is a 1/2A Kadet (Kadetito) plan:
http://www.airagestore.com/kadetito.html
Rusty

Happydad.
Did all that, just like the tutorial in FAQs said.  All I ended up with was what you saw on the page.  I'll keep trying.

Rusty.
Sorry to give you a bum steer.  That's not the plane I'm talking about.  It's an 18" span slab-wing profile fuselage C/L sport/racer style craft.  Once I figure out the pictures you'll see.  If I found the plans then surely someone else has.  Is Bruce Matthews a known designer?  Is it based on an early kit?  I know nothing about it but I liked its lines and thought I'd give it a shot.  I haven't been a prolific builder for 35 years so I had to get back into it with something simple.

I'll give it another shot.



Yay   I did it.  Hitting the "Copy" button didn't work.  I had to copy & paste with my menu bar commands.  Here's another picture of the progress. I've since epoxed the firewall in place.



Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Cheers.
Rod.

NICE!!! Looks like you're planning on running a "tanked" engine? I'd like to see more photos of your progress. If you can possibly find info on obtaining the plans again, I'd be very interested.

Thanks.. Cool looking little model!

The plan shows a 5cc tanked Babe Bee with an alternate firewall position for a non-tanked Product engine. I was thinking of a Golden Bee but I'll have to see how the C of G turns out. It may be a bit long in the nose for that.
The plan suggests a stitched elevator hinge so I thought I'd give that a go for period authenticity. Never done one before but plenty of info out there about how to go about it.

I have the plans on file. If I can't find the link again I can probably just post a copy of the file here.

Rod.

well it looks like you succeeded. when I mentioned copy and paste I meant copy from your computer menu not the CEF menu you were inside, but you figured it out.

happydad

     

Oldenginerod wrote:The plan shows a 5cc tanked Babe Bee with an alternate firewall position for a non-tanked Product engine.  I was thinking of a Golden Bee but I'll have to see how the C of G turns out.  It may be a bit long in the nose for that.
The plan suggests a stitched elevator hinge so I thought I'd give that a go for period authenticity.  Never done one before but plenty of info out there about how to go about it.

I have the plans on file.  If I can't find the link again I can probably just post a copy of the file here.

Rod.

I knew I'd seen this somewhere, but I didn't save a copy of the plans to my plans folder.  So I found it again over on RCG.  The plans are in the third post down on this page:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2068247&highlight=cadet

Rod, the nose doesn't look that long to me.  A Golden Bee should work just fine, unless you have ultra light wood on your plane. When I first saw the plans, it didn't do much for me. But, seeing yours actually cut out, it looks better than I'd pictured it. Maybe I could scale it down a little for PeeWee power. (Oh, Crap! Now I have this picture in my head of Scrappy Doo flying a control line plane and yelling, "PeeWee Power!!!")

The Tail Heavy Mark

Oldenginerod wrote:The plan shows a 5cc tanked Babe Bee with an alternate firewall position for a non-tanked Product engine.  I was thinking of a Golden Bee but I'll have to see how the C of G turns out.  It may be a bit long in the nose for that.
The plan suggests a stitched elevator hinge so I thought I'd give that a go for period authenticity.  Never done one before but plenty of info out there about how to go about it.

I have the plans on file.  If I can't find the link again I can probably just post a copy of the file here.

Rod.

I did some searching for info on the model, and found 2 different posts on 2 different sites, by 2 different modelers... Not a lot of details/replies.. other than; one person's model was stated as being real nose-heavy. Most all of us who have entries in the CEF Profile Scale Reed Speed Contest (see left forum side-bar) are dealing with nose-heavy conditions. Running a prod. engine will help take weight out of the nose, if you have that condition when the model is finished.

As for the stitched hinges... there's a great thread with some info here. https://www.coxengineforum.com/t1850p20-old-school-stitched-hinges

Best of luck!!!!!!!!!!!!   

I plan to drill the holes prior to doping & painting so that the wood is fully sealed. Once the finish is applied I will then stitch the hinge. This will also save the hinge thread being stiffened or weakened by the finish so should give a much freer movement and longer life. (That's my theory anyway.)

Rod.

Hi Rod,

If you're using nylon thread the dope shouldn't soak into it, but it will soak into the holes made for the hinge, you might want to paint it after hinging, make sure there not too tight or sew too many "8's"

I don't expext my build to go quickly, but how about some of you snow-bound folks give it a shot & knock up a Cadet for a simple winter build. It would be nice to share some construction ideas & pictures on this specific model and then figure out together the best way to fly the thing. I haven't been able to find a picture of a completed model yet. If any of you subscribe to RCG maybe you could PM Bruce Matthews via his post and ask for some pictures. I don't have any ideas at this point about colour schemes so a picture or 2 might inspire me.

Rod

Thanks Lieven. That's just what I was looking for. Reinforces my opinion of it being a nice looking design.

Sorry folks, I thought I'd have a further progress report on the Cadet build by now but I haven't managed to get back to it. Too busy earning a living. With all the talk about the BTC and Reed Speed builds I guess I should have been inspired by now, but there it sits with 2 coats of clear dope, no hardware other than landing gear and no elevator- I want to practice my stiching techniques first. Might get back to it tomorrow, although the Autumn weather is beautiful here and I'd love to get one of my boys out to pit for me and have a fly, but that's unlikely. "Outdoor activities, what's that?" Ahh.. the younger generation.   

Rod.

Rod , looks like a clean easy build ..Nice looking plane to I will try my hand at one but ...cant right now I got all I can hold on my plate at this time , the racer, x-8a , baby ring with a stupid warped wing I really want to get back too soon , and now with my son just got back home he is only interested in RC so I told him I would get with him and weeee will get the kadet  seniorita finished and get some air time soon  Geezs not to mention the engine trouble I am having with the KB!  Eric  

Hi Rod. I understand how builds take longer than they seem they should. I have the same problem. Here's what 3 figure 8s, over and under at each hinge point looks like.




Bye the way, that washer I have supporting the control horn is not enough. It needs a ply platform.
Rusty

Thanks Rusty. I hadn't thought of doing individual tied-off stitches. I was thinking more of a running stitch. That would mean less chance of loose ends as you'd only have a couple of knots. Is that a Monokote strip along each hinge edge of the stab? Good idea. I was planning to use braid fishing line and was going to drill the holes before painting so they were sealed. Just a bit of trial & error I guess.

Rod.

Oldenginerod wrote:Thanks Rusty.  I hadn't thought of doing individual tied-off stitches.  I was thinking more of a running stitch.  That would mean less chance of loose ends as you'd only have a couple of knots.  Is that a Monokote strip along each hinge edge of the stab?  Good idea.  I was planning to use braid fishing line and was going to drill the holes before painting so they were sealed.  Just a bit of trial & error I guess.

Rod.

Yes it is a Monokote strip on both sides of the hinge line. Plus the whole thing is Monokoted on top of that strip before sewing. I used Dacron flying line. I unspool a length, tie it to a doorknob or something and pre-stretch it. Pull it tight as you stitch and it's self-gapping and tight but completely free moving. A dot of epoxy on every tag end, and a dot of white glue with a toothpick to seal each hole. That's my favorite stitch for 1/2A. My bigger planes get another pattern.
Rusty

Well I just cut myself a new elevator 'cos the original one ended up too short to match the stabilizer, and while I was at it I widened it a little from the plan because it just looked too narrow to do much good.  Hope I don't end up regretting that.  My first attempt at stitching a hinge went ok I think- looks neat enough and the tension and alignment seem ok.  I put a dab of C/A in each hole to strengthen it a little to prevent the thread pulling through.  I ended up using 10lb Spectra line, (Is that ok?), which is pretty thin and started to cut into the balsa, but with the C/A it should be fine (I hope).  Ready to add some paint now so once it has some colour I'll post a picture.
  
Cheers.
Rod.

If you do it again, you could try try hardening the pre-drilled thread holes with a dot of CA. And after sewing, plug and secure the finished stitches with wood glue so it doesn't wick into the hinge and stiffen them.
Rusty

Here's a few pictures of my first stiching effort, along with progress on The Cadet.  The holes are a little big as that's the smallest drill bit I had.  They look bigger in the pictures than they really are due to the blob of C/A I put on each.





You will notice some dots on the left side.  Just a little mistake on marking it out and are not actually holes.



Required holes are drilled, surface filled with talc/dope filler and almost ready to do a final sand and paint.  Then to choose an engine.  Maybe a Golden Bee?  

Rod.

Sorry. Don't really know why the original post ended up in "For Sales".

Well, it's been a while, but I have made a little progress on the Cadet.  Finishing is what has held me up.  There are so many different opinions about paint choice that it's really confusing.  I brushed on and sanded about 3 coats of dope and then sprayed another coat of dope tinted with automotive tinter.  I asked the tech guy at the paint company and he assured me that Acrylic Lacquer (widely used here) tinters were compatible with Nitrate dope, so I got my local guy to mix up some dope and orange tinter- looked great in the can.
Sprayed it on with a small touch-up gun but it was a little too opaque and dried to a really flat finish.  What to do now .
I have no hobby shops anywhere near me for paints such as Lustrekote, but I do know that Rustoleum has recently purchased a large Aussie paint company.  
Today I had to drive a couple of hours to see a specialist in the city and on the way home passed a Masters store.  I thought, "American hardware store, American paint".  They had a full range of Rustoleum paints, and although some say that they still don't perform well, there are equally as many who say it works just fine, so I grabbed a can and tonight gave it a quick coat.  Really good gloss and covered well.  Just need to give it plenty of time to cure.  Being our coldest winter in 30 years, it may take a while.  Here it is.  Those with a good eye will see a paint drip, but I have fixed that.  It's probably heavy & I have no scales to weigh it, so I guess it doesn't matter.  That reminds me, I forgot to epoxy on a tip weight before painting.  Oh well.





(The slow but steady) Rod