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Post  getback Sun Mar 16, 2014 12:10 pm

Ok call me stupid but I cant find how someone on here said they were using Velcro straps to mount there tanks , I am using a perfect 3/8 oz. wedge help please! how is the eazy way to do this? Thanks Eric  Surprised 
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Post  roddie Sun Mar 16, 2014 1:52 pm

Hey Eric, I am trying Velcro mounts on my tanks. I have only tested the "tanks" while bench running my engine... but that was several days ago... and I got raw 25% nitro fuel all over them while filling. The Velcro shows no signs of coming off.

I used some "Industrial-Grade" Velcro that I had, and cut it to fit the whole entire area on the side of my tank.. and chose to use the "loop" part of the material there... and will use the "hook" part on the fuse.

The first photo shows my tanks along with some panels that I made for the in-board side of the fuse.. that replicate the exhaust shields on the Bearcat. They are just for appearance and not functional.

velcro tank mount 3-10-110
velcro tank mount 3-16-110

Make sure if you try this; that before you stick-on the Velcro.. that you clean the area with an alcohol pad REALLY WELL. Peel off the adhesive liner using tweezers.. and don't touch the adhesive with your fingers!!!

On your model... MAKE SURE that the paint is completely cured for several days before you stick the Velcro on the fuse side. Let the Velcro sit for several days too... before you mate the pieces together. This will give the adhesive a chance to grab and hold better.

This is an experimental way of mounting a tank for me. I have not done this before, and I'm not sure how it will work out or how well or "long" that it will hold. It does however; give you the options of moving your tank around to the optimal position for draw, c.g. balance and also provides a little isolation from vibration.
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Post  getback Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:45 pm

Thanks Roddie , that looks like it will work well , I had seen where one was thin strapped around the tank .. I know there is not a lot of weight to this stuff but am tring to keep it to the minimum. I wounder if the stuff I have will have the strength to hold on ? May be some trial and error happening  lol!  Maybe the thing want hit no one  tongue 
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Post  RknRusty Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:42 pm

You might want to strip a patch of paint and epoxy the Velcro pad on the fuse.
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Post  Oldenginerod Mon Mar 17, 2014 3:17 am

Excuse my ignorance, but why not just epoxy the tank to the fuselage & cut out the middle-man? Is ther any reason you need to remove the tank?
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Post  roddie Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:49 am

Oldenginerod wrote:Excuse my ignorance, but why not just epoxy the tank to the fuselage & cut out the middle-man?  Is ther any reason you need to remove the tank?

Running a hard-tank on a speed-model can be tricky; as far as it's position/location is concerned. Sometimes the tank needs to be shimmed at a certain angle in order to work correctly. This is because the engine is relying on "suction" for fuel delivery. The Speed Contest rules state that no mufflers will be permitted... so pressurizing the tank is not an option by using a muffler.

I think that a hard-tank should always be removable on a profile fuselage for maintenance (flushing-out at the end of the season) or replacement with a different size/type tank. I'm also a strong believer in a non-rigid tank-mount. Any vibrations transmitted through the airframe to a rigid-mounted tank (especially a small tank) can cause fuel-foaming and/or bubbles that can get into the feed-line. I usually mount my hard-tanks with a piece of soft foam-rubber in-between the fuse with rubber-bands hooked around pegs to secure the tank.

Running a "bladder" gives constant fuel pressure.. so it's location is not as critical.
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Post  getback Mon Mar 17, 2014 1:25 pm

Good points there Roddie , this is for my stuntman 23 or I would have posted on speed reed contest , I don't think the Velcro would hold on the racer. Heck I am hoping the mean old motor don't fly off  lol!  lol!  lol!  St.Pats Beers Cool !!
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Post  roddie Mon Mar 17, 2014 3:39 pm

getback wrote:Good points there Roddie , this is for my stuntman 23 or I would have posted on speed reed contest , I don't think the Velcro would hold on the racer. Heck I am hoping the mean old motor don't fly off  lol!  lol!  lol!  St.Pats Beers Cool !!

 Embarassed Embarassed Embarassed this is what happens when I assume things!! well... let's hope my speed-model's tank doesn't fly off.. Sh*t Hit The Fan

I wanted to build a test-stand to try to simulate the rotational/centrifugal forces of flight on the Velcro tank-mount and also for fuel-flow. It would be pretty easy to make.. but probably wouldn't be a good indicator for fuel-flow ability. Maybe the increased G's of a smaller flight radius would be a good test? If the fuel will draw under those conditions.. I would think that it would have no trouble on 42 foot lines.
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Post  dckrsn Mon Mar 17, 2014 4:13 pm

roddie wrote:
I wanted to build a test-stand to try to simulate the rotational/centrifugal forces of flight on the Velcro tank-mount and also for fuel-flow. It would be pretty easy to make.. but probably wouldn't be a good indicator for fuel-flow ability. Maybe the increased G's of a smaller flight radius would be a good test? If the fuel will draw under those conditions.. I would think that it would have no trouble on 42 foot lines.

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Post  getback Mon Mar 17, 2014 6:35 pm

That's good Bob think they will let Roddie get in there with his plane running ?  Flying    Roddie I would suggest putting one of those tanks on another model if u can and fly it to get some IDEA of whats going to happen  Two Cents   the no. 2 wedge is made to mount the wedge out-board so the fuel will draw from the corner were the pick up tube is   http://www.bjm-home.com/BJMEnterprises/page60.html  Eric
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Post  ian1954 Tue Mar 18, 2014 4:44 am

Oldenginerod wrote:Excuse my ignorance, but why not just epoxy the tank to the fuselage & cut out the middle-man?  Is ther any reason you need to remove the tank?

I think, if it works, having a removable tank is a good idea. If you have a favourite, custom built tank - you can then move it from plane to plane rather like I transfer batteries from one plane to another.

It is also a flexible way of finding the best position - as has been stated.

Roddie made this suggestion some time ago and I tried it using bog standard velcro. It did not survive my diesel fuel but, then again, neither did elastic bands!
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Post  balogh Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:18 am

RknRusty wrote:You might want to strip a patch of paint and epoxy the Velcro pad on the fuse.
Rusty

Much to my surprise it is not the aggresive "industrial" fule components like the methanol or nitro, but the supergreen castor that makes most of the trouble in my balsa planes, and accessories, including the velcro strips I use to fix parts. While methanol and nitro evaporate relatively soon, castor remains and soaks the balsa parts (even if impregnated or sealed with fuel-resistant paint) or slowly eats up the bond between the sticker-side of the velcro and the mating surface...E.g. I fix my key-chain camera on the wing of my R/C plane by Velcro but splashing castor from the engine tends to undo the Velcro bond with the wing thus I secure the camera with a thin rubberband as well, just to be on the safe side.
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