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Post  Ken Cook Sat Mar 29, 2014 8:59 am

I lost my favorite ARF Oriental last season due to a problem with the controls. I was recently given this Oriental which had 5 flights on it. The plane was completely re-kitted so to speak. I removed all the parts, stab, elevator, etc. I basically now had the plane in the form which it's received within the box. First step, strip the horrible covering off. If one chooses to leave it on, it will peel off for you typically in flight. I've lost entire wing panels. Oil soaking quickly ruins the raw balsa. Removing the covering was a difficult chore due to some of the underlying color becoming almost impregnated within the balsa. Seeing I was using white and it's translucent, I knew any underlying darker colors would show through. I got a bit creative with the covering prior to assembling the cowling by putting blue in there. The cockpit is sunk into the fuse and epoxied. I like the two tone look. I did this with my original yellow ARF by installing red in the canopy.

The next step, I'm not a fan of the 4" bellcrank in this plane. In my opinion it's not needed and is too slow for this plane. It therefore requires excessive hand movements and control inputs. I almost lost my original ARF due to this problem until I started flying it with a larger handle. Out with the 4" and in with the Sig 3". All hinges were completely redone. This required some fancy woodwork in terms of plugging existing hinge slots and also completely redoing the flaps. Most of the flap materials used are poor choice and flutter in flight. I used harder and heavier flaps with the heaviest being outboard. New stab and elevator and rudder were also cut and installed. The wood of the existing model was very poor in my opinion in terms of strength. The stab of the Oriental can easily be broken where it exits the fuse and I have solved that problem by using a shim of ply underneath the stab and also triangular braces on the underlying side.

The prior owner crushed the you know what out of the motor mounts so I had to fill the recess with 1/8" ply pieces and plug the holes to redrill for my engine . The existing holes were poorly drilled and I resolved that. I chose a OS MAX-S .35 due to it's weight. The original owner used a FP.40. A FP or LA .40-.46 is going to require 2.5-3 oz's of tailweight in this model. While it has a lot of wing area, this is a boat load of nothing you have to carry around. I took a better approach and decided to fly it using a lighter engine. My Fox .35 version flies quite well.  I then epoxied aluminum bearer plates to the mounts using structural epoxy (T-88). The belly pan under the wing plus the gear block under the F-2 former all have fiber glass installed. Anywhere there was a joint, I used 1/2 oz. glass cloth and epoxy.

All the hardware of the ARF is metric so no standard pushrods will fit the hardware. SO it's either purchase new hardware or bush the existing I should've just replaced it, but this was on a budget. One where I didn't want to spend any $$$$$. I used anything I had laying around, covering, glues, miscellaneous hardware, etc. Properly retaining the flap horns is a must as the stock units are made of incrdibly weak wire. They need to be properly bushed and also properly attached to the trailing edge with bushings and retainers. I used pieces of nyrod and U shaped pieces of music wire epoxied in to retain them .

I took the plane to the field, I knowing better but took a gamble used the tank that was within the plane. Sure enough as luck would have it, it's a POS and doesn't work. Something internally is wrong with this tank so it was back to the drawing board with this one. I suspect corrosion is within the tank due to the junk that was coming up the line. I've encountered this before and a simple flushing wasn't going to resolve this. The ready to fly weight of the plane with the stock muffler is 38.56 oz's. This is real good for a Oriental and also the Max.35. I have acquired a tongue muffler for the MAX but the case will need to be machined in order to accept the tongue due to it's through bolt installation vs the strap that OS uses. The tank is undergoing some surgery currently.  The plane didn't get to fly but I will try again this weekend. The cowling is still getting a makeover. I had to glass the inside of it due to bad cracking . There's very little resin used in the making of these and they just crack due to vibration. I repaired the existing needle holes and relocated for my new engine. This should recapture some fun this season as I intend to do a bit more on the stunt side of things. I put a lot of emphasis in combat and lost a bit of touch with the stunt side. This will make a great model for sport and competition. Ken

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Post  JPvelo Sat Mar 29, 2014 9:42 am

Nice work ken. I really like how the blue names the canopy "pop".

Jim
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Post  RknRusty Sat Mar 29, 2014 3:14 pm

I've got a Max-s .35 that I hadn't considered using in my Oriental. I think it has a throttle on it. I'd been planning to use my fp40, but maybe I should reconsider based on what you're saying about the weight. I hope to be flying it by early Summer. Yours looks good. There sure are a lot of things to improve from the out of box parts.

I also have a fully built Magnum soon to arrive. One of the MCLS guys has reworked it for me. He's working on the last details now, plumbing the tank and mounting the engine. It's BIG! I might have to use a speed pole and a safety belt to fly it. lol!
It's the yellow and red one in the rear center of this picture:
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=34683.0;attach=143235;image

That's Wayne with his faux-IC-engine electric smoothie in the lower front right. The cylinder is a film canister.

Rusty

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Post  Ken Cook Sat Mar 29, 2014 5:40 pm

Rusty, for a first time go around I would highly recommend the FP.35-.40. or LA .40-.46. I took as much material as I could take away from the ribs and various ply parts. This plane doesn't typically come out under 40 oz's. It may fly fine when the winds are at 0 but as soon as they mildly pickup the plane will get blown out of the overhead maneuvers. Their just isn't enough reserve power with the Max or a Fox .35. The shortcomings become quickly noticeable when your pushing the plane into the maneuvers.  This isn't the situation with the FP's. You have more than enough power which most is getting turned into rpm's as your just letting the prop spin up a bit more without making the plane fly too fast. Ken

The Magnum is quite a large plane. I flew a few of them mostly .60 powered. The Magnum was the top dog kit back in the day. I never built one due to the foam wings. I just didn't know how to do it back then. It would be a snap today. This would be awesome if built using Bob Hunt's lost foam wing method.
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Post  RknRusty Tue Jan 13, 2015 9:58 pm

Ken, I came back to this bookmarked thread to look over as I work on my Oriental, so I'll post here where you've already addressed some things I'm working on now.

I split the fuselage tail so that I can insert a vertical square dowel and widen the cavity to accept a ball link on the flap horn. Plus more room for the weight I'm going to need to add. Looks like a 3/8" dowel will do the trick, but I know you've written about it and can't find it. It may have fallen out the bottom of my PM list. Do you recall if 3/8" is the amount you spread yours? 1/2" looks too wide.

I also scrapped the idea of fixing the raised sheeting that the wing glues to. It was slightly crooked and I removed wood so that it now allows the wing to be aligned 90 deg. to the fuse. So instead of making it fit inside, I removed some covering around the wing saddle and will get my support from a triangular balsa filet on the outside, topped off with Epoxy/microballoons for looks. I will probably do something on the inside for gluing area too, but this looks like the easiest solution to me. You mentioned 1/2 oz. fiberglass at your joints. I have a 2" wide roll of the lightest cloth I can find, but I don't know the weight. Is the 1/2 oz. glass the very fine stuff we used to get in Goldberg 1/2A kits? If so, I haven't been able to find that anywhere. I want some glass between the fuse edges and the wing sheeting.
Rusty

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Post  Ken Cook Wed Jan 14, 2015 4:31 am

Rusty, I believe I made mine 3/8 or slightly less. I would agree 1/2" is too wide. Anything over the existing piece gives you slightly more room. I like to solder, but there's not a lot of room in there to properly do it and also clean it afterwards. When I make my L bend into the elevator horn, I grind a little groove around the perimeter of the wire for more solder. I also have the washer on the outboard side so theoretically centrifugal force would keep the wire in the horn if the solder did fail. Wishful thinking really. When using a ball link, you have the width of the ball not to mention the screw and lock nut that retains it. This can get pretty wide. In situations like the Oriental, I do like using a 4-40 clevis. Don't use a 2-56 clevis on a stunt plane it will certainly fail at a alarming rate. If a clevis is used, a threaded coupler would be required unless you have a solder link clevis so therefore a lock nut should be used as a jam nut against the clevis. This brings up the hole in the elevator horn issue which is too large for the clevis centering pin and would need some form of bushing. I know the ARF provides the retention springs which do work, it's just that under load it can make the pushrod jump back and forth within the hole giving up some desired and at times needed control.

As for glass, the Goldberg glass may have been slightly heavier than 1/2 oz cloth. Similar to what I'm describing however. I usually place it on the joints and lay a piece of waxed paper over it to provide smoothness. The wing joint if epoxy is used is sufficient . The area that is most stressed and susceptible to breaking is the cutout on the underside front of the leading edge. That is where the fuse former has the gear bolted to it which is the belly pan joint. Ken
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Post  RknRusty Wed Jan 14, 2015 10:43 am

Oh so I need some really light fiberglass cloth. What I have is much heavier than the old hinge cloth. I'll just skip it, except maybe under the LG.

This ARF came with a control rod already threaded and a crappy looking clevis, metric I assume. Without thinking, I forgot about the metric system and assumed it was 4-40. However I just measured the rod and it's .0995" on my beat up old dial caliper and it won't accept a 4-40 lock nut or a ball link. I should take this back to my build thread and continue there. I will fix it and let you know what I do.
Thanks.
Rusty

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