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"ULTIMITE COX 010: it has a clutch, E starter, throttle, exhaust, aluminum tank, aluminum venturi, gearbox with forward and reverse, and now its on a custom drawn and printed stand"



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Post  anm2 Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:23 am

I am starting to put together some examples of older product engines. Does anyone have any ideas on a good way to display the cox engines that used Postage Stamp Backplates? The Goldberg mounts are good, I just don't have a lot of those lying around. Has anyone made custom mounts for these engines, or have any ideas that would look good and not too difficult to fabricate. Thanks for any ideas. Andy
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Post  roddie Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:35 am

Why not make an "L" shaped stand out of thin wood, for mounting the engine by its prop-screw?... Make a hardwood base 2"W. x 3"L. x 1/2" thick and rout a 1/4" channel across the grain at one end, for gluing in a 1/4" x 2" hardwood upright (the size of lattice stock) about 2" high... Maybe "radius" the top, and drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the radius for the prop-screw. Stain it... varnish it... wood-burn the engine info into the base before assembly. Stick some felt on the bottom of the base... and you have a classic looking display stand which I think would compliment the engine nicely. As a plus.. the engine can be rotated on the stand.. to display it at different angles.

You could also make a long base "rail" to hold several engines with several routered cross-slots spaced about 4" apart... and have the uprights fit into the slots without gluing them.. so that you can remove each upright/engine for inspection.

An easy way to do either.. would be to alternately use some 1/8" thick material for the uprights..  (plywood or acrylic sheet etc.) and cross-cut the slots in the base, on a table saw to accept the uprights. An average blade's kerf (width of cut) is approx. 1/8". Mount the engine with a short prop-screw.. or add a "club" in the mounting.
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Post  anm2 Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:53 pm

roddie wrote:Why not make an "L" shaped stand out of thin wood, for mounting the engine by its prop-screw?... Make a hardwood base 2"W. x 3"L. x 1/2" thick and rout a 1/4" channel across the grain at one end, for gluing in a 1/4" x 2" hardwood upright (the size of lattice stock) about 2" high... Maybe "radius" the top, and drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the radius for the prop-screw. Stain it... varnish it... wood-burn the engine info into the base before assembly. Stick some felt on the bottom of the base... and you have a classic looking display stand which I think would compliment the engine nicely. As a plus.. the engine can be rotated on the stand.. to display it at different angles.

You could also make a long base "rail" to hold several engines with several routered cross-slots spaced about 4" apart... and have the uprights fit into the slots without gluing them.. so that you can remove each upright/engine for inspection.

An easy way to do either.. would be to alternately use some 1/8" thick material for the uprights..  (plywood or acrylic sheet etc.) and cross-cut the slots in the base, on a table saw to accept the uprights. An average blade's kerf (width of cut) is approx. 1/8". Mount the engine with a short prop-screw.. or add a "club" in the mounting.

Roddie, This is a great idea. I think it is relatively simple and would work nicely. I am not sure when I will get this together, but I will post pictures when I do. Thanks, Andy
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Post  RknRusty Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:31 pm

If you need help thinking up a way to do something, just ask Roddie. lol! 

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Post  rat9000 Fri May 02, 2014 12:50 am

Cant top roddies idea,but I do have some copper plates,they measure 5/16 ths thick-2-3/4 long-5/8ths wide,they are the same width as an .049 crankcase.I've got 6 I can spare.
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