Ian's 1/2A Control line handle

I see a real potential  problem here. Having wingnuts, studs and the likes of anything projecting out in front is an invitation to crash a plane. I also see the soldered crimp tubes which can cause a hardpoint failure. While this doesn't happen immediately, the failure is without warning. Some of the Sullivan handles have a knurled red knob that tightens the adjustable cable. I've had that little button knob wreck planes. If it sticks out, it will find the cable. Ken

Please don't make the assumption that: "A good 1/2A CL handle makes a good pilot". I still fly with a red plastic plastic Carl Goldberg handle and rig it as simply as possible.

SD

Ken Cook wrote:I see a real potential  problem here. Having wingnuts, studs and the likes of anything projecting out in front is an invitation to crash a plane. I also see the soldered crimp tubes which can cause a hardpoint failure. While this doesn't happen immediately, the failure is without warning.  Some of the Sullivan handles have a knurled red knob that tightens the adjustable cable. I've had that little button knob wreck planes. If it sticks out, it will find the cable. Ken

I strongly agree that anything that sticks out front will sooner or later hook a line and give you full control in an unfavorable direction(ask me how I know). When you pull a panic maneuver, those lines cross right over the front of the handle and will hook any protrusion.
Wreckin' Rusty

I think you're definitely on the right track with the adjustment concept Ian. Ken's points are valid though.. If you're flying level with no wind.. you would have no problem. But.. when you need to start running or whipping when/if the lines go slack.. you don't want anything to snag at the handle.. and the shock of lines tightening abruptly when you "do" get line tension back, is where the soldered terminations can actually "cut" into the cables.

I still need to drill and chamfer a set of narrower holes for my handle.. because my custom bell-crank has a 1.125" lead-out spacing. I may have to thread my "Spider-wire" right through the handle holes for this one. The cable is very flexible at 2-1/4" spacing.. but it may be too stiff going narrower.

Nudge. Nudge. Wink. Wink. Say no more.

I will add it to my ever increasing pile of crap handles.

Ian,

You don't see the chance to buy a good second hand handle locally? I bought these ones recently. They're definitely better than the wood saw handle conversion I made last year.



Lieven

ian1954 wrote:Nudge. Nudge. Wink. Wink. Say no more.

I will add it to my ever increasing pile of crap handles.

"A nod is as good as a wink to a blind bat"

Instead of discarding it, why not just change the hardware and redo the wire crimps. It's a sound handle it just needs a tweak or two.

Ron

Ian,

Nice work! Like Ron says, all you got to do is cut the bolts down flush and replace the wing nuts with conventional nuts. Rest assured many Expert/Advanced flyers have used that style handle for many years and many still do. Ken has a definite point, due to the close spacing of the lines and having three wing nuts on the outside it could be problematic...a quick wack with a saw and file and you'd be good to go!

p.s. you might even look to flip the bolts so the head is on the outside?

OVERLORD wrote:Ian,

You don't see the chance to buy a good second hand handle locally? I bought these ones recently. They're definitely better than the wood saw handle conversion I made last year.



Lieven

Hi Lieven, you have the Precisia handle, with the offset screw, I have a Precisia without this setup... Nice find.

navion34 wrote:

Hi Lieven, you have the Precisia handle, with the offset screw, I have a Precisia without this setup... Nice find.

I was surprised to find how light they actually are.

Happy Easter !!

Lieven

I will still stand behind this handle
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Control-Line-Handle-Adjustable-Throw-C-L-Combat-2-5/150822418276?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3D6336445773446096095%26pid%3D100085%26prg%3D20140211132617%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D150822418276%26clkid%3D6336446498352785750&_qi=RTM1562569
as being one of the best available handles made aside from making your own. Some have claimed it looks flimsy. I never witnessed one of these handles fail as they're practically indestructible due to to the material they're made of. I've found a few things however I dislike. One is the colored tape, easily replaced but the cable can eventually wear through it and rub your hand. I fixed that on mine and it will never happen again. I shorten the handle cable to project out in front of the handle about 3/4". I see in the picture description he shows this cable now short.  You want this cable as short as possible. The other is the adjustment screw. This requires a screwdriver to adjust ( I opened the head of the screw and use a coin).  I use the adjustment screw on my stunt handle. My combat handles use no adjustment because I eliminated it  and the lines are all made the same so I never have to adjust my handles, just clip and go.  I fly all my Cyclon, Fora, Profi equipment and F2d stuff with these handles. Ball Bearing high performance engines above fly with the same speed and line tension of .15 size models of years back. They're flying models which are 230-almost 300 square inches.  Marcus Rodgers who builds these handles will make any line spacing on request and any length of cable not too mention the length of overhang. As it stands currently in the picture, this cable works fine for .25-.35 size models, 1/2A requires a light cable . It's like fishing for trout using a surf rod. You need light lines for 1/2A equipment. Cox engines for one have little to no line tension so using .015 cable  is more than adequate for your handle cable.

When you have a large handle OR overhang despite your cable spacing the input to the cables are greatly exaggerated. There's no need to fly with your entire hand inside the handle. Ken

I have not flown with this one yet and wish the hardware were smaller but in a rush could not find nuts to fit a smaller wing nut , am considering changing the style of fastener also....     my prototype I have flown with and liked it was a little different to try and get used to but still like it just very small....     Getback HAPPY EASTER !!

Hi Ken,
 
I do like this handle but ,,,,,,,,,,
 


what you see as a $15 handle - I see as $37.29. I must say that the $22.29 postage would include import duty. Not many offer this option.

Some handle,

from Brodak, 120 gr,

from Brodak, 120 gr,

my Precisia (french brand in the 60's, 70's...)

130 gr,

and the Meister B (from graupner 70's)

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Ian that's over the top expensive. Point well taken. I can suggest this. I'm not sure what's available in your neck of the woods, but these handles for me are plentiful due to them being chemical storage containers. I work in pharmaceutical and science labs and these are used for chlorine and methanol plastic jugs. It only requires a few minutes and you have a handle. Here's a picture of some of the storage containers http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lnmZooKEtlY/Tp5Fd2lCBKI/AAAAAAAAAY0/kD5W4Khf_Tw/s1600/round+closed-head+plastic+jugs.gif Ken

Genius, Ken.
Working for a lab, I see these handles every day.
I see them go into the trash a lot too.
Thanks.
Bob

I am thinking of getting one of these

Not a bad idea! It would make a good handle. Plus it's dual purpose, if anyone comments on your flying ability you can let em have it.

Ron

I think Ian may have a decision on that ,Sorry   what the heck is that a set of Brass kockleheads ? Man first flight or sooo the handle WILL matter .but......just pick a stick and go for it,  Getback  

After searching for "knuckle dusters", I came across this!.
 
Is it worth taking out of the packet and is the dacron string strong enough?
 

 

 
It does look like the plastic bucket handles that Ken recommended.

Possibly and yes.

It will work, as will the Dacron. It's certainly not the best medium, but it will allow you to accomplish an initial flight.

I tried a Goldberg handle, but the Spectra lines are much smaller in diameter and kept slipping out of the slots. I think Dacron being thicker would allow it to stay in place.

Ron

ian1954 wrote:After searching for "knuckle dusters", I came across this!.
 
Is it worth taking out of the packet and is the dacron string strong enough?

Yeah, that handle and dacron will do nicely. Dacron is very strong. If the line looks old and questionable(I bet it's fine), Bernie and Matt sell it. I think it might be carpet thread.
I'm really looking forward to your entry into this super fun sport.
Rusty

The best 1/2A handle I've ever had is the Larry Renger 1/2A Handle, sold by RSM Distibution

https://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm

Have a look under Handles and Lines

Cheers