shrinking tissue with alcohol

I have never used a glue stick on a balsa/tissue model but have used it on paper models. I never found it to make a satisfactory permanent glue joint but it is quick and easy.

I don't know what "krylon" paint is either but I have used alcohol to "assist" with shrinking delicate tissue. I have always been too ham fisted with wet tissue when applying it.

Pure alcohol doesn't shrink the tissue, it needs to be wet. I have only used it on delicate tissue with 90% alcohol to 20% water sprayed on. I have used this with tissue paste and , quite often, dope.

Not sure where the alcohol saves money. Here the isopropanol is more expensive per litre than cellulose thinners.

I use isopropanol as a substitute for the very expensive acrylic model paint thinners. It only comes around 90% pure - has 10% water content.

I apply silkspan wet, but tissue is applied dry. The alcohol simply speeds up the drying/shrinking time since it gasses off more quickly than water. But, like Ken said, you'll have to seal the tissue with dope; clear dope works just fine with colored tissue and will be lighter than colored dope over white tissue. Without sealing, tissue soon looks like a cat tossed in a pond if the plane is flown outdoors with morning dew.

Many times I would apply UHU glue stick to the framework. If I didn't get to finish a wing panel, I could easily do it the next day because the alcohol will reactivate the glue stick on the wood. The alcohol serves a dual purpose. Like I mentioned, Jap tissue works far superior over domestic tissue. I found that I can make domestic tissue work well, but you can't play with it stretching it out. Ken

This is my Lancer (coincidentally the same model in the OP's link), covered in tissue applied with a glue stick. sprayed with clear paint.

Marvelous job on the Lancer. They fly quite well. Ken