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Locknuts on 4-stroke engines Empty Locknuts on 4-stroke engines

Post  Waffleman Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:26 pm

Grr.

I went to take a look at one of my projects on the backburner today: An O.S. .52 four stroke engine slated for use in an edge 540 RC plane.

On most four stroke engines, there are two prop nuts: one to secure the prop, and the other to lock the first prop nut in place.

Mine, however, has one prop nut and a screw-on harry higley style spinner. Same principle.

I was replacing the wooden prop with a plastic one, since the engine seemed to have trouble maintaining idle as well as a few other issues - the wood prop was too light.

To my surprise, I just couldn't remove the spinner with the typical screwdriver through the little hole. I put it in vise grips and put enough force on it that the wood prop broke in my hands, since I was using it for leverage.

Then the prop started slipping on the drive plate, meaning I couldn't get any leverage from it.

I finally got it off by putting the spinner in a table vise and twisting the drive plate with vise grips. The spinner and prop nut were locked together until I had enough room to get a wrench in there to break it free, which is what caused my issue in the first place.

I don't thing that the engine is damaged, but I'd still rather not have to put things in a table vise to get them loose.

I wonder why it had locked so thoroughly? The prop had been there for a very long time, I bought the plane it came on from my LHS that had it on consignment. Still, I've never seen one that tight.



Proved to be quite a headache. Not to mention my now-bent screwdrivers...

Mad Mad Mad Mad
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Post  fit90 Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:08 pm

The prop might have expanded over time because of temp, moisture oar any number of things. Plus, the first nut might have been too tight compressed the prop and the prop started decompressing over time. Or,... maybe someone just over tightened the two nuts.
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Post  roddie Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:49 pm

Hopefully you won't be faced with that problem again.. but if you have to use vise-grips to get a hold on an "engine part".. make sure to "pad" the jaws with something (leather-strap from an old wallet.. a slit-piece of rubber hose or inner-tube rubber) so as not to grind away on the surface... and be careful not to clamp too tightly. If you have "channel-lock" pliers.. you can adjust them for the best grip.. and control how much clamping-force you exert. This is also a good method for removing a Cox glow-head from a cylinder that has no wrench-flats.

Good luck with the "Edge 540".. Let us know when you get it flying! Thumbs Up
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Post  Waffleman Tue Aug 26, 2014 10:49 pm

@roddie wrote:Hopefully you won't be faced with that problem again.. but if you have to use vise-grips to get a hold on an "engine part".. make sure to "pad" the jaws with something (leather-strap from an old wallet.. a slit-piece of rubber hose or inner-tube rubber) so as not to grind away on the surface... and be careful not to clamp too tightly. If you have "channel-lock" pliers.. you can adjust them for the best grip.. and control how much clamping-force you exert. This is also a good method for removing a Cox glow-head from a cylinder that has no wrench-flats.

Good luck with the "Edge 540".. Let us know when you get it flying! Thumbs Up

Knowing my ability to actually complete one of my many projects, it might be awhile before that edge flies!

Its a nitroplanes ARF that was given to me, And its turning out to be an interesting one. Between the bad chinese covering material and the structural defects and my own homebrew mods, this wont go together as quick as a good Great Planes ARF.

I actually have "channel lock pliers", but only 1. Those were the "vise grips" I mentioned (Thats what I call them, I don't know why) and the table vise was used as well. I hate myself for doing that, but it had to be done.
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