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Post  1/2A Nut Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:32 pm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sullivan-S598-Hornet-1-2A-Electric-Starter-/361086853314?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item54127420c2

Starters are risky if the small engine floods can bend a piston rod, they do put pressure up against the thrust plate and thus the aluminum wears and the gap increases between the prop plate and the crank case. If continued use of a elect starter the gap gets large enough to case the pin for the piston rod on the crank to rub on the engine back plate or the plastic tank or in the case of a pee wee the reed. I now use phenolic thrust washers on all my cox engines you can buy them for .049's and up but have to hand make them for the .010 / .020's once you know your engine prime amounts few hand flips then spring start is best. Less stress on the smaller engines. I use my Sullivan Hornet 1/2A Electric Starter on .049's and up. Its just a 05 or 500 size 12 -18v brushed motor. I flip the rubber insert around works better for small cox aluminum spinners.

Speedy ( a Beta design for 010 powerplants) - Page 2 Sulliv10
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Post  rsv1cox Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:07 pm

That's funny, I just bought one about an hour ago. Decided against making my own, but it could be done.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sullivan-S598-Hornet-1-2A-Electric-Starter-/361086853314?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item54127420c2

Looks a little different though, but best price. Identical starters from different vendors ran about $45.00
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Post  balogh Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:49 pm

1/2A Nut wrote:Same prop type..the flexible black one? You could try the gray the harder plastic can be modified for more rpm yet keeping the same diameter for good thrust. Here is a photo of my modified gray.

Speedy ( a Beta design for 010 powerplants) - Page 2 Mod_pr11


Very nicely modified small props, I like the grey one especially. But I would like to reach the same speed as before without any prop modification after I found out what the problem is?
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Post  balogh Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:56 pm

rsv1cox wrote:That's funny, I just bought one about an hour ago.  Decided against making my own, but it could be done.  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sullivan-S598-Hornet-1-2A-Electric-Starter-/361086853314?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item54127420c2

Looks a little different though, but best price.  Identical starters from different vendors ran about $45.00

I have this Hornet-type as well but the small one on the vid is from the late and grate Roger Freiheit of Microflite from whom I bought it also for 45USD 4 years ago. Roger Freiheit was the inventor and patent holder for the PET, a thermal throttle method for TeeDee010 engines. Unfortunately he passed away a year or so ago, but his 80 pages booklet about PET is a real must-read for COX lovers.

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Post  balogh Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:01 pm

[quote="1/2A Nut"]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sullivan-S598-Hornet-1-2A-Electric-Starter-/361086853314?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item54127420c2

Starters are risky if the small engine floods can bend a piston rod, they do put pressure up against the thrust plate and thus the aluminum wears and the gap increases between the prop plate and the crank case. If continued use of a elect starter the gap gets large enough to case the pin for the piston rod on the crank to rub on the engine back plate or the plastic tank or in the case of a pee wee the reed. I now use phenolic thrust washers on all my cox engines you can buy them for .049's and up but have to hand make them for the .010 / .020's once you know your engine prime amounts few hand flips then spring start is best. Less stress on the smaller engines. I use my Sullivan Hornet 1/2A Electric Starter on .049's and up. Its just a 05 or 500 size 12 -18v brushed motor. I flip the rubber insert around works better for small cox aluminum spinners.

That danger is true for the electric starters, but espacially with 010 and 020 engines if you release the starter button before you touch the prop then the occassional bending of the piston rod in an over-primed engine can be prevented. I only allow very short bumps with the starter on the prop and thus there will not be excessive wear of the prop drive and crank case either.
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Post  1/2A Nut Sun Oct 26, 2014 12:03 am

Try adding 2 extra glow plug shims see if you gain rpm back. If you only had one shim try no shims. Can try new glow plug. Insure there is nothing inside the valve chamber of the NV body. I have had a small particle found in a TD 020 and was able to dial in a higher consistent rpm. Wink
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Post  balogh Sun Oct 26, 2014 8:11 am

Thanks, will try the recepies. In fact I would find the dirt in the NV a more logical reason than the inappropriate number of shims...why would the required shim number change in an otherwise perfect (compression, shaft sealing etc.) engine if the fuel blend is also unchanged?
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Post  1/2A Nut Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:37 am

The fuel blend being the same then how old is the fuel? Every time the fuel bottle is opened you can lose nitromethane thru evaporation it is the first to go over time after a season or two I would consider it flattening out up to 50% reduction depending how well the bottle stays sealed in the field and at home. The shimming is to invoke a change if all things are the same. Yes I found a hair once in the NV a sliver of silicone tube and a dirt particle. Anything that won't pass out the small hole in the valve body.
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