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Cox Engine of The Month
September-2023
balogh's

"Beefed up old stock 290 on my Quickie100 RC after plenty of airtime hours..."



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Post  rsv1cox Wed Dec 10, 2014 5:06 pm

The soapy water.

ebay buy.  It's a little cruddy, but not too bad.

The Aquamite hits the water....... Aquamitemotor_zps1b5e43aa

Came disassembled and well packed, not always the case.

The Aquamite hits the water....... Aquaboat006_zpsa4a10967

A soft brush, warm water, and a little mild dishwashing detergent cleaned the boat up.

The Aquamite hits the water....... Aquaboat009_zps8abf1daa

The motor was quite clean, the needle valve and crankshaft turned smoothly.  Found another brass eyelet on the end of the fuel tube.  

The Aquamite hits the water....... Aquaboat014_zpsb51f81f7

Back together.  

The Aquamite hits the water....... Aquaboat019_zps06e3898e

There are differences between this motor and my other boat motor.  This one has silicone tubing instead of  black neoprene, there is only one fuel tank vent,  the flywheel is considerably smaller, and the hole in the drive shaft is drilled all the way through instead on only part way on the other engine.  

The Aquamite hits the water....... Aquaboat023_zpsc796754a

I think there should be some sort of bow fixture on the front.  That hole tends to fill with water.
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Post  roddie Wed Dec 10, 2014 5:31 pm

Holy Crap!! Shocked My post disappeared!
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Post  roddie Wed Dec 10, 2014 5:52 pm

Let's try again.. "Hi Bob".. Here's a few photos I found on the web..

The Aquamite hits the water....... Google12
The Aquamite hits the water....... Worthp11

This shows a spark plug in the head.. but Wen Mac/Atwood didn't make .049 spark-ignition engines as far as I know. I believe that the model engine spark plugs also have a 1/4"-32 thread.. and someone probably stuck that plug in there for this photo.

The Aquamite hits the water....... Google13
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Post  rsv1cox Wed Dec 10, 2014 6:22 pm

Thanks for digging that out roddie. I knew there had to be something in that hole. Looks like a light or marker of some sort.

I do know that they made a deluxe version, the one with the pull starter.
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Post  Mark Boesen Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:11 pm

Champion actually made glow plugs briefly, they're pretty rare.

Nice job, it cleaned up nice. Are we gonna see a action video?
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Post  RknRusty Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:15 pm

Mark Boesen wrote:Champion actually made glow plugs briefly, they're pretty rare.
I saw one in Wayne's shop the other day. It looks just like a spark plug. Never knew there was such a thing.
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Post  Oldenginerod Thu Dec 11, 2014 1:01 am

rsv1cox wrote:

      ........Found another brass eyelet on the end of the fuel tube.......

 ......That hole tends to fill with water.......

I have a theory.  Huh... Maybe the brass eyelet is there to hold the shape of the fuel line inlet, so it doesn't close in on itself.

Looks like it should have a hook for a mooring rope on the bow where the hole is.  Thumbs Up

Rod.
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Post  1/2A Nut Thu Dec 11, 2014 1:15 am

For a prop you can still buy the Dumas 1/2A 1x1in nylon 2 blade prop.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dumas-Products-Inc-Plastic-Prop-1-8-049-/171286959271?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e17f94a7#ht_2740wt_1214

1" Dia. 1.25" Pitch Left Hand 1/8" Bore



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Post  getback Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:18 am

It did clean up good , I have been seeing a few of those champion plugs on some engines I have acquired lately , it takes a lot of juice to glow that thing//they weren't spark engines so I am keeping them for later Surprised One of these days I hope to pick one up that may run with minimum work and parts , crap got off thread again Sorry Laughing Yeah I want to see it in action too Wink Eric
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Post  gcb Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:50 pm

getback wrote:It did clean up good , I have been seeing a few of those champion plugs on some engines I have acquired lately , it takes a lot of juice to glow that thing//they weren't spark engines so I am keeping them for later Surprised  One of these days I hope to pick one up that may run with minimum work and parts , crap got off thread again Sorry Laughing  Yeah I want to see it in action too Wink  Eric  
 

Champion made glow plugs until to mid fifties. My understanding is that it cost more to make glow plugs than spark plugs so they stopped producing them. At the time they were considered the best plug in my area. They had a sort-of idle bar on them. Here is a pic. Note the VG-3's were short plugs. I used them for .15 ci. and below.  

George

The Aquamite hits the water....... 100_0010
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Post  rsv1cox Fri Dec 12, 2014 7:39 am

Trying to fix the broken windshield frame:

The Aquamite hits the water....... Aquaboat019_zps06e3898e

I used blue tube common plastic "cement" after cutting off about 1/8" from the frame to get it to align:

The Aquamite hits the water....... Boatcar001_zpsf100f30c

Stuck a piece of balsa in there as there is a tendency for it to pop back into it's previous broken position.

I used this procedure to repair a broken pylon boss that holds the wing on a Cox F4U and it worked very well.  But you really have to let this stuff do it's work as it needs a long cure time when parts are under tension.  I won't remove that block of balsa for at least a week.  But even then I'm afraid that it will come loose.

I have thought about heating the plastic frame with a match, but I don't want to harm it further ?????????

And I agree Rod,  that was my initial thought when I first posted about that eyelet.  It's too light to be a sort of "clunk" so that's the only other explanation.
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Post  KariFS Fri Dec 12, 2014 11:56 am

rsv1cox wrote:

I have thought about heating the plastic frame with a match, but I don't want to harm it further ?????????


The boat cleaned up very nice Cool

You could try to warm the frame with a soldering iron. If your iron has adjustable thermostat, set it to a low temp, 220 deg F maybe, and bring the tip close to the plastic. Do not touch the plastic, just allow the heat radiate to the material for a little while. If you don't see an effect, increase the temperature. If you have a regular iron without temp adjustment, be extra careful. And don't touch the plastic with the iron.

Applying radiant heat to the frame should relieve the tension in the plastic and help the frame stay in the shape it is supposed to be. A hairdryer might do the trick too but it will warm the entire frame and the deck of the boat, may not be good for them.
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Post  Mark Boesen Fri Dec 12, 2014 2:35 pm

I think trying to melt the frame together may cause more problems then help. The last several years theres been a lot of glues on the market that will stick that type of soft plastic together, your local Home Depot should have a good selection. I like the Welders stuff but theres probably better stuff then that out.

The Aquamite hits the water....... 50379710
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Post  KariFS Sat Dec 13, 2014 1:58 am

Just to clarify my previous message, I didn't mean that I recommend trying to weld or melt the parts together with heat.

I think the windshield frame has a tension in it, that is trying to separate the already glued-together parts. Probably the frame has been bent in the wrong position for a long time.

Now that the parts are already glued and supported, maybe the tension could be relieved by gently applying radiant heat to the frame by bringing a semi-hot iron close to it. You would kind of "teach" the part its new shape and that would help the glued parts to stay together.

About 1/4" would be the closest I would get with the iron, my hands are not quite as steady as they used to be Embarassed

Good luck Wink
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Post  rsv1cox Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:26 am

KariFS wrote:Just to clarify my previous message, I didn't mean that I recommend trying to weld or melt the parts together with heat.

I think the windshield frame has a tension in it, that is trying to separate the already glued-together parts. Probably the frame has been bent in the wrong position for a long time.

Now that the parts are already glued and supported, maybe the tension could be relieved by gently applying radiant heat to the frame by bringing a semi-hot iron close to it. You would kind of "teach" the part its new shape and that would help the glued parts to stay together.

About 1/4" would be the closest I would get with the iron, my hands are not quite as steady as they used to be Embarassed

Good luck Wink

My thought exactly. I have tried to "glue" two plastic parts back together by applying heat and all you end up with is a blob. Yes, I just want to release the tension in the plastic, rearrange the molecules if you will. I left it in the sun for awhile yesterday, not extreme, this is West Virginia in the winter after all. Smile

I will let it sit for another week before I remove the support, cross my fingers and see what happens.
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Post  crankbndr Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:32 pm

Nice job on the Aquamite and Automite find an Aeromite and you'll have the triple play.
Could these be parts for the boat??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Vintage-Wen-Mac-MP-1-Marine-Accessory-Pack-UNUSED-MISP-LOOK-/371210027379?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
The Aquamite hits the water....... A_tiff10
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Post  Mark Boesen Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:47 pm

KariFS wrote:Just to clarify my previous message, I didn't mean that I recommend trying to weld or melt the parts together with heat.


Yep, sorry i didn't really read post clearly.

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Post  Mark Boesen Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:54 pm

crankbndr wrote:Nice job on the Aquamite and Automite find an Aeromite and you'll have the triple play.
Could these be parts for the boat??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Vintage-Wen-Mac-MP-1-Marine-Accessory-Pack-UNUSED-MISP-LOOK-/371210027379?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
The Aquamite hits the water....... A_tiff10

yep, that be them.

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Post  rsv1cox Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:12 am

Thanks guys, My accessories are red, but that's ok. I really just need the propellers and the "cleat" on the bow, but I cast a vote anyway........ Smile
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