Toxic Skyraider flys in

Pretty cool, I got my throttle working. Have to go to dinner I will try and post pictures soon.

Mine cleaned up nice I used bleach and hot water after a wipe down with some hoppies number 9.

It is missing the rockets the needle valve black cap and I'll have to make one landing gear the eyelet was rusted thru.

Another idea to remove the broken screw is get a thin piece of K&S brass tubing, with the inside diameter the same as the screw's outside diameter. Serrate the end of the tubing to make a poor man's hole saw. I've done this with hardwood bound screws broken off and it works pretty good. I usually chuck the tube into a drill press to remove the wood/screw, but if this is Styrene plastic, you could probably twirl it with your fingers to remove the plastic, or use a VSR hand drill. It'll leave a hole bigger than the screw (or the size of the OD of the tubing), then fill the hole with epoxy and bore it out for a replacement screw.

I recently resorted to this to replace a tail-light bulb on my 2004 Trailblazer - rusted screw sheared off when I tried to remove it. I found the drill press method worked pretty fast, but tended to melt the plastic - probably some sort of vinyl plastic. A few minutes later, troweled 5-min epoxy in there, then bored it out one hour later. No problem.

Hope this helps.

The throttle linkage

statorvane wrote:Another idea to remove the broken screw is get a thin piece of K&S brass tubing, with the inside diameter the same as the screw's outside diameter. Serrate the end of the tubing to make a poor man's hole saw. I've done this with hardwood bound screws broken off and it works pretty good. I usually chuck the tube into a drill press to remove the wood/screw, but if this is Styrene plastic, you could probably twirl it with your fingers to remove the plastic, or use a VSR hand drill. It'll leave a hole bigger than the screw (or the size of the OD of the tubing), then fill the hole with epoxy and bore it out for a replacement screw.

I recently resorted to this to replace a tail-light bulb on my 2004 Trailblazer - rusted screw sheared off when I tried to remove it. I found the drill press method worked pretty fast, but tended to melt the plastic - probably some sort of vinyl plastic. A few minutes later, troweled 5-min epoxy in there, then bored it out one hour later. No problem.

Hope this helps.

That's cool stuff I am putting that in my memory bank , Thanks

Yes, me too. I have gathered the stuff necessary to do the job, although I may substitue a jewelers triangle file.

Sounds like you got'er handled...I like to use a Dremel with the really thin cutting stone and cut a really thin slot, using a small screw driver to remove.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=420

I tried the made up brass tube "drill" chucked in a dremel set on low on a piece of scrap and it worked well - to a point. It tended to overheat the plastic and would only go down about 1/8th inch before bottoming out.

I cured the overheat by running the drill bit/plastic under cold water which worked fine. Now I have to cut the brass tube with a dremel cut-off in an X patten deeper than the present jewelers file cuts and try that.



Hopeful

I got the broken end of the screw out of the Skyraiders pylon.

I decided against using a made-up drill bit around the bitter end of the screw as there just isn't enough material around the relieved end of the pylon that the bell-crank sits on.  

Instead I used a razor saw all around the pylon to cut it, then unscrewed the free end to expose the broken screw then used pliers to extract that.  Worked great.  





I think I will hog out the freed end then glue it back in place using a guide.  I had marked a witness line on the pylon to ensure I got it back correctly.  It may be a trifle shorter, but there is flash on both ends that should help in the gluing process and make up the difference. Razor saws are pretty thin anyway.



I could use a 2/56 machine screw to replace the broken special purpose but will probably look for a self tapping screw to do the job.  Most of the replacement screw will go deep into the unaltered fixed end of the plyon.

Anyway, I was sweating this one out.  Those broken in place screws can be a problem.  Two out of the three were broken in place.  Easy, as they are thin above the threads to begin with.

This is turning out to be the hard-luck Skyraider.  While my other one disassembled, cleaned-up and went back together fine, this one is living up to it's toxic name.  

From the broken screws, to the acne finish, and busted pylons I found a broken nipple on the fuel tank, fuel tank oozing a brown/orange substance, subsequent broken fuel tank and a seized engine with a probable out of round cylinder.  For starters.....

I solved the broken pylons and screws then moved on to the fuel tank which was dripping the mentioned fluid.  I knew it had to be cleaned but it wouldn’t come off.  Sooo I applied a little compressed air, not a great move as the two filler nipples were blocked with this ooze so when I applied the air to the fuel outlet hole it blew the tank in half....



Ok, I had a spare tank, but I couldn’t use it because the attaching lip still had plastic on it from the donor aircraft which would not come off, but it did supply a nipple.  





Got the tank glued back together and mounted and moved on to the engine.  Like the rest of the Skyraider it was a mess.  Got it disassembled after a hot Simple Green soak only to discover that the cylinder is out of round.  No problem, I have new cylinders.  



Notice the unused fuel in the line and the broken off nipple still in the silicone.  I think the propeller was bent from years sitting on that blade in some hot attic somewhere.  Wonder if I can apply heat and bend it back?????