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Post  getback Tue Apr 07, 2015 6:40 pm

Here is where I am now  BaBy Clown in Prgress  Bb_clo10  BaBy Clown in Prgress  Bb_clo11  have all sides wing tips finished , lead outs look like there coming straight through the braces ??// But anyway more work tomorrow (maybe ) Rained today off/on no work for $$ Eric Very Happy
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Post  roddie Tue Apr 07, 2015 7:16 pm

Looks great Eric! Thumbs Up Is the bell-crank supplied with the kit?
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Apr 07, 2015 7:28 pm

Eric the leadouts do go through the tip braces. Just drill the appropriate size holes and insert the guides and epoxy.

One of the ideas I stole from my old PDQ kit is to make thicker tips which allows the leadout guides to be installed through the tips. It's a touch heavier, although much cleaner.

Here is how mine looks.

BaBy Clown in Prgress  ALHw1zF
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Post  getback Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:14 am

Here is a little progress report on the BC , I worked on it about a week ago ,, have been over loaded with stuff to do . Just picked up my mator plants my god I think they all came up in the Hot House 72 plants Shocked Very Happy   anyway .  BaBy Clown in Prgress  Baby_c10  BaBy Clown in Prgress  Baby_c11  BaBy Clown in Prgress  Baby_c12  Hope to get more done this week What?
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Post  Ken Cook Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:31 am

Eric, are you using yellow glue for cloth hinges? If I may make a suggestion, Testor's fast dry cement is the best glue I ever used for putting on cloth hinges. This glue doesn't wick into the needed flexible section of the hinge.  It dries extremely fast, it also dries clear. It lays down tight with no frayed edges, it can be lightly sanded smooth revealing a clean professional installation. Duco cement would be my next choice or Sig -Ment. Ambroid is not a good choice due to the fact it can bleed through in a orange brown hue  if a clear finish is opted for. Don't use a ball point pen to mark your hinge locations especially if using solvent based glues or dope. You will quickly be disappointed when the pen bleeds out all over when coated. I refrain from using a ball point pen period.  I see you have pins everywhere. This eliminates the need for any of it and both sides can be done within minutes of each other.   The tube I used was a yellowish color. In my search for more I come up with 2 other versions which is a brown tube and also a green tube. All of these say hot fuel proof wood glue so I can't comment on the others but I really can't see a very big difference. Your just looking for a fast dry quick tack solvent based adhesive. Ken

Looking on the net I came across the variety of Testors wood cement. I can't locate the older tubes of yellowish tubes I was using just pictures. I noted that no model # was present for the product I was using. I believe this would be the same product which is now in the brown tubes which is numbered Testors 3503. This adhesive is pretty inexpensive but I caution about leaving any air space within the tube, you must chase all of it to the top after using. Once the lid is removed it flows automatically out so if you squeeze the sided near the top of the tube lightly it prevents this.
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Post  getback Sun Apr 19, 2015 11:25 am

Yes that's the Titebond stuff , I use to use epoxy but is really a pain ! don't see using CA as if it does bleed it probably want loosen up easily . I will get me some of this brown tube testers glue and give it a try , Thank You for your input // I wanted to try sowing the hinges but I think I need to do a practice piece first to see how it comes out , I really like the they look on other planes I have seen done this way, but could not find my carpet thread . Did someone say un waxed dental floss would work too ?
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Post  RknRusty Sun Apr 19, 2015 10:04 pm

I use Dacron flying line and pre-stretch the length I expect to use. After I drill the holes with a pin vice and a small bit, I CA harden the hinge line and add further reinforcement with a strip of Monokote. You can get a good pack of big needles at the Dollar store or Walmart. Be sure and bevel 45* angles on the moving portion so it doesn't bind. Leave the stationary portion with a straight or slightly radiused edge. There are a couple of good threads here on the subject. You can see my examples in my Yak-9, Shoestring and 1/2A Refried Bean build threads. I've done several planes with various stitch styles. I like the look, and it draws admiring comments too. Start with the inner-most hinge. You'll see why right away.
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Post  getback Mon Apr 20, 2015 6:39 am

Thanks Rusty , I have a few spools of the Dacron and didn't even think of it Embarassed  I may see if I can find in my wood the same weight stuff and remake the stab. / elev. I took the pins out and it really stands out in a bad way // didn't like the way the cloth was working , I have not used this before fiber glass has been my go to/// I do need to up grade my building skills after being here and watching but you do have to actually do it to remember for me anyway Laughing  I got some epoxy to clean up too before I move on with the fuse doubler for the out board side (( I didn't mix enough to do what I did and had to remix 1/2 way through that was really screwed up but I got it done with a mess to clean up now. But you know all is good the wing looks good and straight , have never used or seen the jigs before and I like , will keep and reuse . I have read some of the threads on sowing the hinges will have to go back and reread and give it a go Thanks I Love This Forum!
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Post  pkrankow Mon Apr 20, 2015 7:36 am

Dental floss
fishing line
heavy sewing thread, preferably nylon and not poly cotton (poly cotton wear and need replaced regularly, so good in a pinch)

lots of choices.

Amazingly the contour of the edges matter little for free operation of the hinge. A neat figure 8 through the edges and joint gap do the work and even square edges will move freely. Having nice round edges will provide smoother hinge action and better response though.

Phil
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Post  getback Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:37 pm

OK I have decided to do something about the stupid CLOTH hinges I tried and after glueing them WRONG again I ripped the crap off .... not to mention I had to fix a rib I broke twice then when I did glue it back wellllll I notice this morning I had glued the push rod on the wrong side of the rib lid out hole I had to repair  Welcome   And  I have never dealt with those pesky lead out lines / clamps / small eyelets winding that really small cable // I have been using fishing line TOO long I guess Good Idea Just need to get use to it and I am going to get me a rosin bag , to help hold on to nuts/bolts/washers !!! magnets are good But, I hate it when everthing is magnetized . Pics!!!  
BaBy Clown in Prgress  B_clow10   BaBy Clown in Prgress  B_clow11   But it is ALL GOOD!!! Does anyone use one of these ??   http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1607944 I mint this is where I got it from BaBy Clown in Prgress  Hinge_10
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Post  pkrankow Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:21 pm

Never seen that before. Now I need one. I get sick of my poorly lined up hinges, they just look less than excellent but function fine.

I think I have a piece of perf board in my kit box that will do just fine. Can't exactly go to Radio Shack when I need odd stuff anymore.

Phil
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Post  roddie Tue Apr 28, 2015 4:03 am

getback wrote: I am going to get me a rosin bag , to help hold on to nuts/bolts/washers !!! magnets are good But, I hate it when everthing is magnetized.

Eric, If you want a great solution for keeping things organized during a build/rebuild (model or engine).. Go to WalMart; near the craft department you'll find jewelry-making supplies. They sell small clear plastic zipper-bags in different sizes. They come in packs of 100 and cost about $1.00.

BaBy Clown in Prgress  Zipper10
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They keep things CLEAN.. like freshly washed/oiled engine parts.. screws from getting lost.. etc. I often stick a white paper label on them to write notes on. I also keep quart and gallon size zipper freezer-bags handy. The gallon size will hold all your 1/2A airplane parts during a build.. and the quart size will hold an engine up to around .60 size.
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:09 pm

Eric,

I really think stitched hinges are the way to go on this model. I'll dig up Kim's tutorial to help you along.

I think you are going to be really happy with this one. It will fly like nothing you have flown before.

Ron

Edit: here is the thread Kim started, it helped me a bunch so maybe it will help you.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t1850-old-school-stitched-hinges?highlight=Stitched+hinges
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Post  Oldenginerod Wed Apr 29, 2015 4:04 am

This is how my hinges turned out on my Cadet build.  My first attempt.  Hopefully the paint won't stiffen them up too much, but they're stitched with 10 Lb Spectra fishing line and I'm really surprised at how secure the elevator is while still remaining very free moving. I was also pleased with how neat they look.
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Post  pkrankow Wed Apr 29, 2015 6:41 am

I paint then stitch.
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Post  getback Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:03 am

Thanks ,Ron, Rod and Phil , I am going to try and get on it today . At this moment I am still whipped from planting plants and seeds tilling and all the good stuff that comes along with it drunken I think I will make me a pattern to use after I get the paint on... Yes Ron I am looking forward to flying this Baby and the Baby ringmaster too!! Eric sunny
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Post  getback Thu May 07, 2015 8:52 am

OK they look like s$$@ but that is it for now with some practice I hope to get better and FASTER this took me 1.5 Hours Mad  The pait (rusty-olem) is still not completely dry ? but I did put it on thick in a hurry Rolling Eyes   BaBy Clown in Prgress  Stiche10  yeah I had soom problems and cut the thread (found my carpet nylon stuff) and glued it !?!  BaBy Clown in Prgress  Stiche11  BaBy Clown in Prgress  Stiche12  Cinco de Mayo Blow up Mad!
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Post  JasonB Thu May 07, 2015 9:14 am

Nice! Good to see another plane with stitched hinges - they really work great!

J
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Post  getback Mon May 25, 2015 11:03 am

Here we are again , See if I cant skin this clown today !! then I do have other things to doo do ..but ... this is getting to me Mad  found some appropriate stickers for it since the stab looks like S . And the Rusty ole Umm 2X paint is some really thick to go on stuff I probably added 2 oz. to the tail after all the screw ups and redos Embarassed   any way progress ...    BaBy Clown in Prgress  Justin13  new decals   BaBy Clown in Prgress  Anot_c10  BaBy Clown in Prgress  F_clow10
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Post  getback Mon May 25, 2015 12:43 pm

1/2 way there man I hate doing this    BaBy Clown in Prgress  Wp_20123  BaBy Clown in Prgress  Wp_20125  ready to go Outside !!!  she is not tightened up of coarse. Now the hard part What?
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Post  getback Mon May 25, 2015 2:15 pm

Clown covered : that's all for today got to got garden now BaBy Clown in Prgress  Wp_20126 BaBy Clown in Prgress  Wp_20127 That's the best job I have done yet only had to patch one pull away on the bottom at the fuse Babe Bee
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Post  TDbandit Mon May 25, 2015 2:38 pm

Lookin' good man. What are you planning on putting on er, Tee Dee, medallion? (Bandit)
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Post  rsv1cox Mon May 25, 2015 2:44 pm

Colorful Eric, no trouble seeing that in the air. Smile

Bob
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Post  akjgardner Mon May 25, 2015 6:51 pm

Really Nice Job On the Covering ,Can't Wait To See It Comp[eted. RC Plane
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Post  getback Mon May 25, 2015 7:54 pm

I am still tossing the medallion and TD around just don't know yet Small Cox Logo Thanks Guy's I need all the confidence I can get , I like the way the medallion runs with out the pressure but........ need to learn the pressure too Memorial Day
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