BaBy Clown in Prgress

Eric the leadouts do go through the tip braces. Just drill the appropriate size holes and insert the guides and epoxy.

One of the ideas I stole from my old PDQ kit is to make thicker tips which allows the leadout guides to be installed through the tips. It's a touch heavier, although much cleaner.

Here is how mine looks.

Eric, are you using yellow glue for cloth hinges? If I may make a suggestion, Testor's fast dry cement is the best glue I ever used for putting on cloth hinges. This glue doesn't wick into the needed flexible section of the hinge.  It dries extremely fast, it also dries clear. It lays down tight with no frayed edges, it can be lightly sanded smooth revealing a clean professional installation. Duco cement would be my next choice or Sig -Ment. Ambroid is not a good choice due to the fact it can bleed through in a orange brown hue  if a clear finish is opted for. Don't use a ball point pen to mark your hinge locations especially if using solvent based glues or dope. You will quickly be disappointed when the pen bleeds out all over when coated. I refrain from using a ball point pen period.  I see you have pins everywhere. This eliminates the need for any of it and both sides can be done within minutes of each other.   The tube I used was a yellowish color. In my search for more I come up with 2 other versions which is a brown tube and also a green tube. All of these say hot fuel proof wood glue so I can't comment on the others but I really can't see a very big difference. Your just looking for a fast dry quick tack solvent based adhesive. Ken

Looking on the net I came across the variety of Testors wood cement. I can't locate the older tubes of yellowish tubes I was using just pictures. I noted that no model # was present for the product I was using. I believe this would be the same product which is now in the brown tubes which is numbered Testors 3503. This adhesive is pretty inexpensive but I caution about leaving any air space within the tube, you must chase all of it to the top after using. Once the lid is removed it flows automatically out so if you squeeze the sided near the top of the tube lightly it prevents this.

I use Dacron flying line and pre-stretch the length I expect to use. After I drill the holes with a pin vice and a small bit, I CA harden the hinge line and add further reinforcement with a strip of Monokote. You can get a good pack of big needles at the Dollar store or Walmart. Be sure and bevel 45* angles on the moving portion so it doesn't bind. Leave the stationary portion with a straight or slightly radiused edge. There are a couple of good threads here on the subject. You can see my examples in my Yak-9, Shoestring and 1/2A Refried Bean build threads. I've done several planes with various stitch styles. I like the look, and it draws admiring comments too. Start with the inner-most hinge. You'll see why right away.
Rusty

Dental floss
fishing line
heavy sewing thread, preferably nylon and not poly cotton (poly cotton wear and need replaced regularly, so good in a pinch)

lots of choices.

Amazingly the contour of the edges matter little for free operation of the hinge. A neat figure 8 through the edges and joint gap do the work and even square edges will move freely. Having nice round edges will provide smoother hinge action and better response though.

Phil

Never seen that before. Now I need one. I get sick of my poorly lined up hinges, they just look less than excellent but function fine.

I think I have a piece of perf board in my kit box that will do just fine. Can't exactly go to Radio Shack when I need odd stuff anymore.

Phil

getback wrote: I am going to get me a rosin bag , to help hold on to nuts/bolts/washers !!! magnets are good But, I hate it when everthing is magnetized.

Eric, If you want a great solution for keeping things organized during a build/rebuild (model or engine).. Go to WalMart; near the craft department you'll find jewelry-making supplies. They sell small clear plastic zipper-bags in different sizes. They come in packs of 100 and cost about $1.00.




They keep things CLEAN.. like freshly washed/oiled engine parts.. screws from getting lost.. etc. I often stick a white paper label on them to write notes on. I also keep quart and gallon size zipper freezer-bags handy. The gallon size will hold all your 1/2A airplane parts during a build.. and the quart size will hold an engine up to around .60 size.

Eric,

I really think stitched hinges are the way to go on this model. I'll dig up Kim's tutorial to help you along.

I think you are going to be really happy with this one. It will fly like nothing you have flown before.

Ron

Edit: here is the thread Kim started, it helped me a bunch so maybe it will help you.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t1850-old-school-stitched-hinges?highlight=Stitched+hinges

This is how my hinges turned out on my Cadet build.  My first attempt.  Hopefully the paint won't stiffen them up too much, but they're stitched with 10 Lb Spectra fishing line and I'm really surprised at how secure the elevator is while still remaining very free moving. I was also pleased with how neat they look.

I paint then stitch.

Nice! Good to see another plane with stitched hinges - they really work great!

J

Lookin' good man. What are you planning on putting on er, Tee Dee, medallion? (Bandit)

Colorful Eric, no trouble seeing that in the air.

Bob

Really Nice Job On the Covering ,Can't Wait To See It Comp[eted.