An alternative to dope?

rsv1cox Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:43 am

Occasionally I see references here to painting balsa models with Rustoleum after priming but never with Krylon from every bodies favorite store - Walmart. I’m wondering if anyone has ever tried it and if so what are it’s fuel proofing qualities? Can it be covered with a fuel proofing spray?

I’m trying to get away from using dope. I don’t like the mixing and thinning because it’s difficult to replicate the same shade during repaint and touch ups. I have used two part epoxy paint with great results in the past, but the ease of picking up a rattle can is difficult to ignore.

Other than dope, what’s your favorite paint and application procedure on balsa models?

Surfer_kris Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:25 pm

I used to like the "scent" of Dope, but nowadays I mainly get a headache from it...

Lately I've used the odourless "Ezedope" instead. It leaves a more shiny surface but it does shrink tissue with about the same end result as with dope. It is fuel resistant once fully dried out.

Here is a tiny free-flight model I built when I was a kid. I recently rescued it from the attic and patched up the hangar rash by using tissue from the same time era (not quite the right color unfortunately), but this time with Eze-dope. Here is the end results, re-maidened during this easter after +30 years of being stowed away...

roddie Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:54 pm

The problem I've found with Rustoleum, is that you "used to know" what type of paint it was.. and I always looked for "Alkyd-enamel" on the label when I bought any. I can't find that anywhere on their labels now.. so I don't know if that's the actual paint-type. Alkyd-enamel is fuel-proof.. but some of the other paints obviously aren't. If I can find Epoxy-paint in the color I want.. I'll usually get that type. These two paint-types are HEAVY when compared to a lacquer finish.. but they can cover in 1-2 coats. They do however take a LONG time to dry.

pkrankow Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:03 pm

I've heard of Krylon being used. Similar procedures, similar 2 week cure off, similar performance to fuel resistance. Rustoleum is easier for me to get.

I would test some first. Take the colors you want, apply to a 2x4, wait 2 weeks. Wet a paper towel with fuel. Apply to the paint, cover with plastic, come back 30 minutes later and check. Slight color transfer with light rubbing is fine, wrinkles and washing away are not.

I bet a large number of "generic" "enamel" paints will pass.

Phil

rsv1cox Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:44 pm

Yes, I was thinking of a test piece first. I have so many 1/2 full cans of spray paint in various colors including engine enamals which might work even better.

Perhaps a coat of sanding sealer or any standard wood sealer followed by light coats of color. Experiments to follow.

roddie Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:42 pm

rsv1cox wrote:Yes, I was thinking of a test piece first. I have so many 1/2 full cans of spray paint in various colors including engine enamals which might work even better.

Perhaps a coat of sanding sealer or any standard wood sealer followed by light coats of color. Experiments to follow.

I've used a few different rattle-can finishes. Remember Pactra's "Formula-U"? I still have a few old cans of it. I used "International Orange" on my Barbie Plane almost 25 years ago.. and flew it a lot! The gloss has held up well.

An alternative to dope? Dsc02410

I've always been in the habit of "spritzing" my glow-powered models with cleaner.. immediately after the final flight. I'll throw a rag over the engine.. and spray the model with w/s washer-fluid that I keep in a small pump-sprayer in my flight box. The alcohol cuts the oil.. and I think the evaporation process might carry the nitro with it.. not sure, but it does a good cheap job of cleaning IMO. The longer you leave that fuel-spray on there.. the more you're testing the limitations of your finish. Two Cents

getback Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:00 am

The Dope is not too bad if your outside and having beer with it //// I got some of the \Rustoleum paint at the Wal-Mart 3.77 a can to try myself mainly being the price and easy spray app. Question , I got this stuff for the cover fuel proofing ...

anyone tried this stuff ?

**RknRusty** Thu Apr 09, 2015 10:02 am

I have not. But I was in Wal Mart's auto finish and trim section looking at sandpaper and other repair products, and saw a can of Rustoleum clear, among a couple of other colors, labeled "Lacquer." I should have taken a picture and looked it up.
Rusty

roddie Thu Apr 09, 2015 12:10 pm

RknRusty wrote:I have not. But I was in Wal Mart's auto finish and trim section looking at sandpaper and other repair products, and saw a can of Rustoleum clear, among a couple of other colors, labeled "Lacquer." I should have taken a picture and looked it up.
Rusty

Here's an ad/review on the Rustoleum acrylic lacquer..

http://www.walmart.com/ip/17249830?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedItemId=17249829&adid=22222222227015514293&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=65572463208&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=92083351248&veh=sem

and the Rustoleum straight lacquer?

http://www.ronshomeandhardware.com/1906-830-11-OZ-Gloss-Clear-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-p/688010.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=688010&gclid=CLH_wZbZ6cQCFUE8gQod0JYAsQ

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1906830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/product-reviews/B0009XCKGA

Not sure how helpful this was.. but there's helpful hints on application. I would read-up on the method of "clean-up" which if different between the two; may give a clue as to which one might be better for a modeling application.

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