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Run of my Fox .35

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Run of my Fox .35 Empty Run of my Fox .35

Post  TDbandit Sat May 02, 2015 12:13 am

Hi everyone finely got a video of my Fox .35 running. it's destined for my ringmaster S1 that I'm fixing to start building anyway enough of my ramblin' Enjoy! Smile Airplane (Bandit)
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Post  NEW222 Sat May 02, 2015 9:28 am

Nice video. I have one here I had crock potted and rebuilt many moons ago that yet has an airframe to be installed in, so I have not yet run it since rebuild. After seeing your video, I am getting more tempted to do so now. Sounds good.
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Post  TDbandit Sat May 02, 2015 10:47 am

Thanks, yeah it sounds good it has a pronounced bark for sure. It still has the stock two hole spray bar with the flat tip needle soon to be replaced with a randy smith version. It still has a ways to go as far as break-in goes has about 20.5 oz of fuel through it so far at a fast four stroke which I have to maintain since the difference between it wanting to break into a two stroke and a rich four stroke is (one) click of the needle so I have to sorta dance it around. Total run time is 24 total minutes with total cool downs in between runs. Glad you like the video Smile (Bandit)


Last edited by TDbandit on Sat May 02, 2015 11:17 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : typo)
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Post  Ken Cook Sat May 02, 2015 11:10 am

I believe Randy is out of stock of his PA needle valve assemblies. I know they're a few on a waiting list to receive them. Ken
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Post  Cribbs74 Sat May 02, 2015 11:59 am

Looks like you are well on your way Bandit.

The stock needle does leave a little to be desired. The PA would be an excellent choice, if that fails you could always turn down and ST .51 needle or..... You could see if Fox has the new design needle still available.

Have fun with it, if you run into any problems post back. I have been messing with Fox .35's and Fox .40's for the last couple years, of course I can only regurgitate what Ken Cook taught me, but I can pass the info along and it does work to fix most any run problems.

I have a 54' Fox that has been giving me fits, if it keeps it up I am going to send it to Ken!!!

Ron
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Post  getback Sun May 03, 2015 7:27 am

IT does sound good TD , I was wondering is the old flat style needle what causes it to keep wanting to go to 2 stroking or just the break in doing that ?
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Post  Ken Cook Sun May 03, 2015 7:55 am

I wouldn't worry about it going into a 2 stroke as it's not going to harm it in anyway even if it seizes. It will seize and all that's needed is to let it cool off and go at it again. The problem is when you continuously run it and let it seize. It's a binding condition that isn't going to go away. It won't break in because after the so called gallons of fuel everyone claims is needed to break these in eventually lands you a engine that's worn out. I can take a brand new Fox and have it flying out of the box in less than 2 runs without overheating and seizing with a little massaging to the internals. Running them rich isn't going to insure a engine that's going to last a lifetime. It's very harmful to the rod especially a Fox rod which has no bushings in it. Due to the binding, the thin and weak larger end of the rod eggs out. I myself personally drill oil holes in both ends of the rod. I do an extensive clean up of the inside placing a clean and polished radius on the mating side of the rod to the crank pin. Allowing it run a bit faster with little load is less harmful to the rod and liner than many think. The engine should be run in a fast four stroke blipping into a wet 2 stroke occasionally pinching the line and letting it run into a fast 2 stroke. A thin bladed Master Airscrew 9x6 is very good for breaking in the Fox. It get's it out of it's vibratory state and places a adequate load on the engine without letting it over rev. If the engine can hold a solid two stroke when the fuel level is almost depleted without overheating and sagging it's ready to come off of the bench. If it continuously sags and locks up it needs to be addressed and no amount of run time fixes it. It ruins it. Certain things need to be evaluated. Liner fit to case, crank fit to crankcase especially the radius along the face of the crank web and the back of the crank bushing itself. Many times the crankcase needs to be dressed along the front of the case where the prop washer seats on the crank. The piston liner fit down near the bottom end of the cylinder in and around the exhaust ports. I think Fox cut the porting into the cylinder using an axe. Any bind whatsoever or anywhere will generate heat and resistance just compiling break in time and results.

I found the harder you run them, not only the better they run but the more reliable they become. I don't run them with the prescribed 29% oil and never had one fail as a result of not using high castor oil. I race them, fly combat with them, use them for sport, etc. They run better than perfect when run on Powermaster GMA 11/22 oil.

What I found to be more problematic to the engine is the use of high castor oil especially after lengthy run times due to the engine getting so varnished up the carbon feels almost like an engine that has rust within it. Just my findings. Ken
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Post  TDbandit Sun May 03, 2015 10:58 am

@getback wrote:IT does sound good TD , I was wondering is the old flat style needle what causes it to keep wanting to go to 2 stroking or just the break in doing that ?
Most of it I think is the needle, it's a coarse thread needle with large graduations in the ratchet combined with the flat tip the difference from rich to breaking into a two stroke is one click so to keep it from running real rich or going lean I have constantly monitor it. As soon as Randy gets some more of his PA needles in, the old Fox needle is coming out and in goes the PA. I'm not so worried bout the two stroking now since is has some running. As Ken stated I'm going to start bursting wet two stroke runs in with the fast four stroke after another 4oz. I'm doing short 3- 4 maybe 5 min. runs with complete cool downs in between.
I may switch to a slightly different formula fuel before the break-in finishes. (Bandit)
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Post  TDbandit Sun May 03, 2015 11:19 am

@Ken Cook wrote:           I wouldn't worry about it going into a 2 stroke as it's not going to harm it in anyway even if it seizes. It will seize and all that's needed is to let it cool off and go at it again. The problem is when you continuously run it and let it seize. It's a binding condition that isn't going to go away. It won't break in because after the so called gallons of fuel everyone claims is needed to break these in eventually lands you a engine  that's worn out. I can take a brand new Fox and have it flying out of the box in less than 2 runs without overheating and seizing with a little massaging to the internals. Running them rich isn't going to insure a engine that's going to last a lifetime. It's very harmful to the rod especially a Fox rod which has no bushings in it. Due to the binding, the thin and weak larger end of the rod eggs out.  I myself personally drill oil holes in both ends of the rod. I do an extensive clean up of the inside placing a clean and polished radius on the mating side of the rod to the crank pin. Allowing it run a bit faster with little load is less harmful to the rod and liner than many think. The engine should be run in a fast four stroke blipping into a wet 2 stroke occasionally pinching the line and letting it run into a fast 2 stroke. A thin bladed Master Airscrew 9x6 is very good for breaking in the Fox. It get's it out of it's vibratory state and places a adequate load on the engine without letting it over rev. If the engine can hold a solid two stroke when the fuel level is almost depleted without overheating and sagging it's ready to come off of the bench. If it continuously sags and locks up it needs to be addressed and no amount of run time fixes it. It ruins it. Certain things need to be evaluated. Liner fit to case, crank fit to crankcase especially the radius along the face of the crank web and the back of the crank bushing itself. Many times the crankcase needs to be dressed along the front of the case where the prop washer seats on the crank. The piston liner fit down near the bottom end of the cylinder in and around the exhaust ports. I think Fox cut the porting into the cylinder using an axe. Any bind whatsoever or anywhere  will generate heat and resistance just compiling break in time and results.

I found the harder you run them, not only the better they run but the more reliable they become. I don't run them with the prescribed 29% oil and never had one fail as a result of not using high castor oil. I race them, fly combat with them, use them for sport, etc. They run better than perfect when run on Powermaster GMA 11/22 oil.

What I found to be more problematic to the engine is the use of high castor oil especially after lengthy run times due to the engine getting so varnished up the carbon feels almost like an engine that has rust within it. Just my findings. Ken
Forgot to ask, About drilling the rod do you place the hole at the very bottom (ie) the 6 '0' clock position or just off to the side like 7 'o' clock in the direction of rotation? (Bandit)
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