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Post  Kim Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:57 pm

Man!

Crushed, petrified balsa...gluing broken parts back together before I glue them in place !! I have been SPOILED by Lasers !!!!!

Got fed-up with the warped, chewed rudder parts, and just cut the whole thing from some sheet.

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Kim's Baby Wulf...Covering (at last) Has Begun ! Plug_p11


Last edited by Kim on Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:56 am; edited 6 times in total
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Post  nitroairplane Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:01 pm

Nice start Kim.
What engine are you going to use on it?
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Post  Kim Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:13 pm

I got a Tee Dee .020 and .010 looking at me...gonna continue with construction and see where The Force leads me !
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Post  PV Pilot Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:19 pm

I have a old Sterling kit bellanca Citabria that I bought off ebay,,opened the box and all the balsa was pretty much dust, so dried out it is unusable.

lookin good Kim
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Post  Kim Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:12 am

Thanks!

We'll see how this little experiment works out! It was a lot tougher "back in the day" before CA. I'd break bulkheads and ribs just trying to get them out of their sheetwood, and then have to wait for the Ambroid or Duco to dry. At some point, someone told be about black-sanding the backside of the sheet, and that helped a lot in breaking the pieces loose.

Guillows usually includes full-size templates, so making new parts was possible, but I usually busted my budget just getting the model, and there weren't many purchases of stock sheet-wood!
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Post  andrew Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:28 am

Kim wrote:

Guillows usually includes full-size templates, so making new parts was possible, but I usually busted my budget just getting the model, and there weren't many purchases of stock sheet-wood!

Until recently, the best thing you could do with a Guillows kit was to throw away the plane and keep the plans. Very Happy
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Post  SuperDave Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:03 am

As a point of interest, spare pare are now available for Guillow's kits. Check the Guillow's site.
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Post  Kim Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:31 pm

andrew wrote:
Kim wrote:

Guillows usually includes full-size templates, so making new parts was possible, but I usually busted my budget just getting the model, and there weren't many purchases of stock sheet-wood!

Until recently, the best thing you could do with a Guillows kit was to throw away the plane and keep the plans. Very Happy

Guess I'd have to reluctantly agree. However, compared against the kits of their time, they aren't too bad. With some effort, aggravation, and occasional doses of pain, you COULD end up with a decent little model, and the planes DID fly well as scale control liners.

While it sounds silly now, just as with the box art of Cox and Wen Mac Models, the Guillows box art paintings inspired my imagination and made me try hard to duplicate the planes' paint schemes on the ones I built. And I even got fairly close a couple of times!
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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:17 pm

Wow Kim!

You work fast, seems your off to a great start. I was just condidering re-doing my tail in sheet as it is flimsy at best. Also the thread hinges are starting to break the balsa doublers. Don't want to lose the tail while airborne.

Why is this not in the model building section???????
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Post  Kim Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:29 am

Yeah, think I'm gonna go with sheet on the stab/elevator also. I can get obsessed with "build it like it was" syndrome, and end up putting a lot of work in something, where some simple sheet parts will be just as light, and with a lot less effort. The techniques that work well with larger models don't always transfer easily to these tiny rascals. "Back in the day", I didn't have much choice but to use the kit parts...but I can afford a little stock balsa now!

If you re-do the tail and hinges, try your best to get the CA only in the carpet thread where it goes through the surface. A tiny amount will lock it in and hopefully not let it wick into the hinge line. What happens is that it can bond the hinge line and make the surfaces take bending loads instead of the "x" where the threads cross.

Think I'm gonna do a pseudo "Stalingrad Winter" scheme for it's colors...since painting it light gray, with dark splotches, ought to be an easy job, and allow me to use the colors I've got in stock!!!

Maybe one of the moderators can shift this over to the model building section. I wasn't thinking ( happens a lot ! ) when I started it here...and keep forgetting about the new section.
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Post  Cribbs74 Fri Dec 09, 2011 7:24 am

Kim,

Forgot to ask, is that the 16.5" version? I will keep in mind the suggestion about the hinges.

I probably would have commented on this sooner, but I don't visit the off topic section much. Maybe the moderators will move it.

Hope I get mine done first, it will be embarrasing otherwise. One more thing, I hope you go with the .020 as that was my first choice but, I was persuaded otherwise. Good luck Kim I will be eagerly waiting the outcome.
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Post  Kim Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:21 am

Yeah, it's the 16 1/2 version. Sorry for not answering sooner...these posts are starting to slip by me, and I feel like I got to watch the Tach Race deal like a hawk!

Got more photos in the first post !
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:06 am

Kim wrote:Yeah, it's the 16 1/2 version. Sorry for not answering sooner...these posts are starting to slip by me, and I feel like I got to watch the Tach Race deal like a hawk!

Got more photos in the first post !

Looking good Kim! have you decided on a covering? Your fuse is much wider than my Spit so electronics will fit better. Also noticed the .020 very cool indeed. Right now mine weighs in at 3.5 oz fully dressed. I am hoping with the addition of the receiver that it stays under 4oz. I still need to do the camo paintwork so we shall see.

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Post  Kim Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:57 am

Yeah,

I'm going with light silkspan and Brodak dope, hit with an airbrush. The barrel-like fuse WILL help me and I'll need it. Ain't got a clue 'bout the weight...I just try to keep things as light as possible. The Pee Wee fit better that the Tee Dee, so looks like it's the one. While I know I've got to watch it's weight, I plan on a little planking on the inboard wing surfaces so maybe it'll resist daily wear and tear a bit...we'll see...
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Post  nitroairplane Mon Dec 12, 2011 12:34 pm

A pee wee would be good if you keep it under about 7oz.
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Post  Kim Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:06 am

nitroairplane wrote:A pee wee would be good if you keep it under about 7oz.

Gonna take my best shot at keeping it light. We'll see...
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:27 am

Hey!

Why is Kim not receiving the same flack as I did for suggesting to use a .020? Man o man. Maybe it's because I am a newb.... Isn't that like profiling? Just kidding. If the .020 works for Kim I may bolt one to mine in the future.

Great pics Kim! Thanks.
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Post  Kim Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:47 am

cribbs74 wrote:Hey!

Why is Kim not receiving the same flack as I did for suggesting to use a .020? Man o man. Maybe it's because I am a newb.... Isn't that like profiling? Just kidding. If the .020 works for Kim I may bolt one to mine in the future.

Great pics Kim! Thanks.

HEY !!!! It's to toughen you up, kid! It's a mean world out there !!!!

To channel Johnny Cash:
"So I give you that name, and I said, 'Goodbye'.
I knew you'd have to get tough or die!
And it's that name that helped to make you strong ! "

Same for model airplane abuse !

AND...it ain't over yet...if I get it finished, and think this thing is gonna be a glide-bomb, the .010 will step up to the plate !
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Post  nitroairplane Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:31 am

cribbs74 wrote:Hey!

Why is Kim not receiving the same flack as I did for suggesting to use a .020? Man o man. Maybe it's because I am a newb.... Isn't that like profiling? Just kidding. If the .020 works for Kim I may bolt one to mine in the future.

Great pics Kim! Thanks.

Because i knew your would be light because of the servos you are using.
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:08 pm

Kim wrote:
cribbs74 wrote:Hey!

Why is Kim not receiving the same flack as I did for suggesting to use a .020? Man o man. Maybe it's because I am a newb.... Isn't that like profiling? Just kidding. If the .020 works for Kim I may bolt one to mine in the future.

Great pics Kim! Thanks.

HEY !!!! It's to toughen you up, kid! It's a mean world out there !!!!

To channel Johnny Cash:
"So I give you that name, and I said, 'Goodbye'.
I knew you'd have to get tough or die!
And it's that name that helped to make you strong ! "

Same for model airplane abuse !

AND...it ain't over yet...if I get it finished, and think this thing is gonna be a glide-bomb, the .010 will step up to the plate !

My name is Sue! How do you do!

Great tune...

Hopefully it will not be a missle when the engine quits.

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Post  nitroairplane Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:09 pm

I wouldn't count on a fournier like glide though!
Probably be like a littlest stik when it cuts.
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Post  Kim Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:12 pm

I'll be glad if it's THAT good !
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Post  nitroairplane Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:19 pm

Kim wrote:I'll be glad if it's THAT good !


But the average stik glides like a BRIK
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:25 pm

nitroairplane wrote:
cribbs74 wrote:Hey!

Why is Kim not receiving the same flack as I did for suggesting to use a .020? Man o man. Maybe it's because I am a newb.... Isn't that like profiling? Just kidding. If the .020 works for Kim I may bolt one to mine in the future.

Great pics Kim! Thanks.

Because i knew your would be light because of the servos you are using.

I see, you know I haven't checked it the proper way yet but' it seems tail heavy and the receiver still needs to go in towards that end! I do appreciate the servos though!
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Post  nitroairplane Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:41 pm

Yeah tail heavy sucks.
Maybe you need to break out the putty.
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