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         A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer Cox_ba12




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Cox Engine of The Month
March-2024
balogh's

"COX Budapest" .049 engine



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CEF Traveling Engine

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         A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer Empty
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A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer

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         A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer Empty A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer

Post  Ken Cook Sun Nov 29, 2015 4:51 am

Kim posted a pic of this model some time ago when he was enjoying his Sunday coffee and magazine reading. I happened to notice this particular plane and I was quickly filled with memories of one my dad built for me years ago. Just prior to my sister being born, I recall my father building this plane. I still have the remnants of the original he built but due to paint issues and oil soaking issues I figured it was easier to recut and build another. I showed my dad what I had done and I have to tell you I got the thumbs up as he smiled and said I have to see this take to the air once again. Here's what I have so far. The plans show a Cox QZ but I feel the Golden Bee's that i have will make this one mighty happy.
         A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer Dscn2410
         A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer Dscn2411

It's getting a bit cold to dope, but I will be going forward with it anyhow. Maybe brushing will suffice. This is a unique model and trying to taxi my memory from 40 years ago, I recall this somewhat flying like a Bi-Slob in a hover like mode in a full up situation. I like weird, models like this tend to be the ones that always capture the attention. Thanks again Kim
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Post  Kim Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:32 am

You're very welcome Ken!!! Glad to see these projects...a HUGE percentage of what I do in this hobby revolves around the cool stuff I came across decades ago !
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Post  rogermharris Sun Nov 29, 2015 7:32 am

looks like a fun little project and certainly different. very cool!
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Post  ARUP Sun Jan 10, 2016 7:24 pm

How's this one coming along?
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Post  RknRusty Sun Jan 10, 2016 7:33 pm

Ken, I know this is out of date, but still; if doping is out of the question due to temperature & humidity, how about Minwax clear polyurethane? I've become a huge fan of it ever since I used it on the Osprey and it's bullet proof to everything a modeler can spill on it. Heavier than dope, but it doesn't take as much, just wipe it on with a T-shirt rag and pant over it if you want color. I fuelproof repairs with it instead of epoxy nowadays, and paint the insides of screw holes,all things like that.
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Post  Ken Cook Sun Jan 10, 2016 7:58 pm

Doping can be done in the colder temps. In fact I prefer it actually. The humidity is a non issue. The problem is that drying is a issue. You have to regulate drying with different thinners and this can cause some excitability in the dope . What happens is that if your not careful, the solvents now get trapped in the underlying surface longer than it would on a hot day and the paint can blister the underlying coats. The end result is it blisters all the way down to bare wood lifting the silkspan attachment coat. Key is not to spray too heavy and be very careful when masking. I cut my tape and stick it on my shirt so that the tape gets lint on it prior to pressing it onto the model. Once in place, I quickly brush a coat of clear on the tape and proceed with spraying. The tape which now has it's tackiness somewhat dulled down comes off without taking the dope with it. A hair dryer over the tape prior to removal also works well. I just finished the Saucerer today as a matter of fact. It was a rainy day and I worked on several models.

         A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer Dscn2417

I have 3 coats of nitrate clear followed with 2 coats of Nelson urethane. This is the last of my Nelson paint. The Nelson paints are very translucent and generally require 2 additional coats to what I already have on . Elevator needs to have hinges glued in and controls put on. I'm looking forward to flying it. I last saw this plane fly 40 years ago.
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Post  NEW222 Sun Jan 10, 2016 8:34 pm

Nice plane. Were the plans downloaded online? Looks like a simple build similar to the Osborne Platter.
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Post  dckrsn Sun Jan 10, 2016 8:45 pm

         A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer Dscn2410
Stunning!
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Post  oldguy Sun Jan 10, 2016 9:44 pm

dckrsn wrote:         A special thanks to Kim!!!!!! This is my newest model the Saucerer Dscn2410
Stunning!
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That is very neat looking I would like to see that fly.great job. Cool
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Post  Ken Cook Mon Jan 11, 2016 4:15 am

The plans were not downloaded, Kim scanned the magazine article and sent it to me. I did however do a search and sure enough, this came up. http://www.airplanesandrockets.com/airplanes/saucerer-jan-1970-aam.htm I did try and fly the model my father built but it had been around for so long no telling what was going on with it. The end result was a crash from over controlling. Hopefully in the next week, I can get this in the air. Ken
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Post  fredvon4 Mon Jan 11, 2016 8:58 am

Cool looking saucer Ken

What did you use for the fillets in the first photos?

Very clean job there... I like the color scheme a lot also
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Post  getback Mon Jan 11, 2016 11:23 am

Looks really GOOD !! I see you put your controls on the top , that's a good idea to keep them from dragging and maybe better workability too ? Would like to see the maiden if you can Ken . Eric
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Post  Ken Cook Mon Jan 11, 2016 11:58 am

Fred, fillets are micro balloons and 30 min epoxy. I mix small batches at a time. The beauty of this is that you can go right back on it and it blends in nicely if you run out. If a step is created, I heat it with a heat gun until it levels. I wait a few days before painting them. I just wrap sandpaper around a 3/8" dowel and scuff them prior to painting. Water based urethane sticks to it exceptionally well. Ken
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Post  fredvon4 Mon Jan 11, 2016 12:21 pm

That is too funny ken

Years ago you suggested micro balloons and epoxy and caused me to buy a tub of them from Sig..(enough for a lifetime)

Because of the color (mine are more white) I though you used a new or different method

In fact it was your suggestion to use a broken prop cut to scallop profile for shaping the fillets and I have several with different radii I use
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Post  Ken Cook Mon Jan 11, 2016 12:35 pm

Fred, this last batch of epoxy I bought yellowed as it aged. I go through epoxy quite fast and I didn't have it long, but the air space in the bottle made the hardener yellow. I too use the Sig micro balloons which is what is on that plane. I got pretty handy with the micro balloons and I can keep the radius pretty consistent aside from the spill over which easily wipes off with a paper towel. You would be surprised as to how much weight using it can generate. Ken
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Post  fredvon4 Mon Jan 11, 2016 1:13 pm

Epoxy yellowing....ah ha!

yep once you said mico balloons and epoxy I fully got it about the color diff

They are so well done in the first photos I thought you might have actually used leather or a caulk gun/two part mixing tube product

in fact they look (at first glance) as raised (convex) fillets instead of coves (concave)

I look at fillets as structural in some areas (stab/rudder) and just cosmetic in others (engine nacelles and wing root)
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