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Post  jsesere Mon Nov 30, 2015 3:00 pm

Does anybody have a spare set? Mine broke off in the NV receiver so I would need both parts.

Thanks, Joe
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Post  getback Mon Nov 30, 2015 3:43 pm

Joe I pressed my old one out with a punch and replaced it with a assy. from a Cox postage stamp that was broken a little JB weld to secure it and your good to go>> Mccoy .049 Wp_20110 getback
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Post  Kim Mon Nov 30, 2015 5:35 pm

Yo Joe!

I may have a case assembly like that buried somewhere in the storage shed. Let me check tomorrow...need daylight to get through all that stuff !

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Post  batjac Mon Nov 30, 2015 7:48 pm

I had an AMF Wen-Mac, pretty much the same thing, that needed a new spraybar.  I just pressed the bad spray bar out and pushed in a standard Cox product engine spraybar.  I have a bunch of them.  I didn't even have to use JB Weld or anything.  It was a tight fit after massaging the spray bar hole.  I got about 14.5K using a Cox 5x3 rubber ducky prop.  I'd consider that about average for these engines.  Here's the thread:

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t8206-follow-the-bouncing-brain


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Post  Kim Tue Dec 01, 2015 7:12 am

Yo Joe!

Think I got you covered! Please PM me with you address (probably have it somewhere, but this makes sure I use the right one!) and I'll try to get it on it's way later this week!

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Post  pkrankow Tue Dec 01, 2015 11:35 am

There is a good chance the needle can come out if it is not glued in. Use a fresh heavy #11 blade and poke into the end of the needle. The metal used for needles is usually on the soft side so the knife should get some bite. A little fiddling can get teh needle to back out.

I have done this on a couple cox engines. It takes patience. When you get a turn or two out, it pays to put it down and come back 5 minutes later instead of getting overexcited.

Still need a needle though.

Phil
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Post  roddie Tue Dec 01, 2015 6:36 pm

@pkrankow wrote:There is a good chance the needle can come out if it is not glued in.  Use a fresh heavy #11 blade and poke into the end of the needle.  The metal used for needles is usually on the soft side so the knife should get some bite.  A little fiddling can get teh needle to back out.  

I have done this on a couple cox engines.  It takes patience.  When you get a turn or two out, it pays to put it down and come back 5 minutes later instead of getting overexcited.

Still need a needle though.

Phil

I wonder if using a heat-gun might help with Phil's method? Not that the venturi area gets that hot during operation.. but if there's hardened fuel-gum in the needle-threads, it might help to loosen it. Either way.. I'm sure you'll get that engine running again!
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Post  jsesere Tue Dec 01, 2015 7:05 pm

I have used both a blow dryer or boiling water with a few drops of dishwasher detergent added to loosen up stuck cylinders and glow heads.
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