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Less than satisfactory results

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Less than satisfactory results

Post  batjac on Mon Dec 07, 2015 12:48 am

Well, getting on to finishing up a couple of planes, I wanted to try some tissue trim with the dope I was using.  The local shop didn’t have any tissue, and the shop on the other side of town wanted $7 a sheet for tissue that I could get mail order for $1.50 a sheet ($0.70 for the domestic stuff).  Since I didn’t feel like waiting for mail order, and I was not going to pay the ridiculous price across town, I decided to try a couple of things.  First was colored tissue from the Dollar Store.  I knew it wouldn’t be great, but I didn’t expect it to be the miserable failure that it was.

So, next I stepped up a bit and tried some Hallmark brand tissue paper.  It looked and felt better, so I had higher hopes.  I tried some black tissue on my Pageboy, and it worked pretty well.  It bled color a little, but for cheap stuff I expected that.  Then I tried some colored tissue.  I used some green on my L’il Pipe Bomb, but when the dope dried it was crinkled a bit.  Not too big a deal on a slab winger, but unsatisfactory for the Pageboy.  I don’t know why the black worked better than the green, but that’s life.  Maybe if I tried it over a framed wing and shrunk it it might be okay, but that's for another day.  So the Pageboy will have to settle for no trim stripes.





The Mad Experimenter Mark
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Re: Less than satisfactory results

Post  Ken Cook on Mon Dec 07, 2015 1:06 am

Mark, how did you put it on? Did you have the fuse doped and then doped the tissue? Using this method I like to install the trim on dry and brush thinner over the tissue. This gives a bit more freedom in how the tissue is going on as it allows more time to place it. However, it can cause bleeding.  Domestic tissue is going to be problematic as it has no wet strength whatsoever. It does have a grain so you can recognize this when you tear it. I try and place the axis of the tissue in the fashion that I need to stretch the wrinkles out. Domestic tissue is typically folded in the package and the wrinkles created at the fold makes it very difficult to undo. I try and use a Monokote iron to lessen the stress . In the future, I would try and glue the tissue stripes or decos on by applying the tissue with glue stick preferably clear or using thinned white glue and a small artist brush. If glue stick is placed on the back of the tissue, you can also brush alcohol over the tissue to activate the glue stick.  Due to the nature of domestic tissue I can't guarantee bleed out. This is why Jap tissue works superior not only in bleed out but in wet strength. Getting the white glue thinned properly takes some experimentation due to too much water causing it fall apart. This will happen when you go to smooth out the wrinkles and the tissue starts to stick to your fingers. You almost need to place it on one time and not play with it as it will result immediately in the tissue tearing. Ken
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Re: Less than satisfactory results

Post  Oldenginerod on Mon Dec 07, 2015 5:22 am

Can I just clarify one thing, when you talk about "white glue" are you talking about regular wood glue which cabinet makers use? We call it PVA glue here, or a common brand is Selley's "Aquadhere".

Rod.
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Re: Less than satisfactory results

Post  Marleysky on Mon Dec 07, 2015 7:53 pm

Oldenginerod wrote:Can I just clarify one thing, when you talk about "white glue" are you talking about regular wood glue which cabinet makers use?  We call it PVA glue here, or a common brand is Selley's "Aquadhere".

Rod.

White Glue = Elmers Glue ( Brand Name Trademark ) PVA = Polyvinyl Acetate...Don't worry about the brand name. It's essentially white craft glue. "Elmer's", actually has a higher than average Ph than most PVA's   Elmers glue is PVA (PVAC) based - but has lots of other stuff (tackifiers and solvents), and has a pH of 5 (meaning it is acidic). School Glue, Craft Glue are all very similar. Just like Our Chevy's are Equal to your Holdens ( except we did NOT get the UTE or Commodore )  
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Re: Less than satisfactory results

Post  Oldenginerod on Tue Dec 08, 2015 6:04 am

Marleysky wrote:White Glue = Elmers Glue ( Brand Name Trademark ) PVA = Polyvinyl Acetate...Don't worry about the brand name. It's essentially white craft glue. "Elmer's", actually has a higher than average Ph than most PVA's   Elmers glue is PVA (PVAC) based - but has lots of other stuff (tackifiers and solvents), and has a pH of 5 (meaning it is acidic). School Glue, Craft Glue are all very similar.

Thanks that clears it up.  So it is what I suspected.Thumbs Up

Marleysky wrote:Just like Our Chevy's are Equal to your Holdens ( except we did NOT get the UTE or Commodore )
Well, equal except that the steering wheels are on opposite sides. lol!
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Re: Less than satisfactory results

Post  getback on Tue Dec 08, 2015 9:01 am

So American Tissue is the stuff they put around glass and other breakable stuff when you purchase , I got some of this stuff from JRs Tobacco warehouse here in NC and was wondering if it could be used for airplane covering ?/ cant find the pic now but you know the stuff lol! Eric
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Re: Less than satisfactory results

Post  Ken Cook on Tue Dec 08, 2015 2:58 pm

Eric, domestic tissue is very weak. I wouldn't use it for covering on a glo model, maybe a .020 for weight purposes. It's just too fragile. Even for a rubber powered model it has it's shortcomings. It makes a lightweight finish opposed to paint. However, it's going to fade rapidly in the sun. Jap tissue has wet strength and one shiny side which faces out. This not only gives good appearance, it lessens the needed coats of dope to seal it. Domestic tissue doesn't have that quality. I find Jap tissue to also cut cleaner. When I cut tissue for stripes, I layer paper above and below and cut through everything which yields nice tear free cuts on the tissue.
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Re: Less than satisfactory results

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