Veron Combateer

It is unfortunate that I lost the previous pictures - the ribs are slotted in the trailing and the leading edge but they are now blended in so it is not easy to see.

The bellcrank is on a plywood mount but - when I went to sheet the top I had to relieve a portion for it to move freely.

The black wrapping is carbon tow and cyano.

I am still mulling over reinforcing - I will chop out material to get a good battery fit and then think that one through.

Hack 'n slash battery fitting?

If the wing is not glued in yet there are some reinforcing options that will be pretty easy. You can whip up some interior or exterior doublers, glass and epoxy, and more.

Phil

Battery compartment hacked and slashed. Now for some more reinforcement.

Motor mount printed and fitted. Bearing for motor shaft pressed in.

More progress but still more to do. I covered the elevator but since then it has gone wrinkly.

I need to make a canopy - it won't look right without it.

I messed up the cowling and it needs correcting. Not sure how but the spinner isn't blended in nicely and catches.

Damn that's a shame about the stab wrinkle , looks like the iron was too hot , I like the full body Nice !

Hi Ian, There's a product called "The Woodpecker" made by Top-Flite.. that's used for perforating sheet-balsa surfaces in prep for iron-on covering.



I don't have one.. and have never tried one. It's only recommended for treating "sheeted-areas" where air/gasses can become trapped under the covering.. causing bubbles/wrinkles. It's also something you'd only want to use with "opaque" covering. I know that you often use transparent film.. but that's generally on your models that have mostly framed-up construction.. and not many sheeted surfaces.  

Regarding the clearance between the prop and cowling; have you considered "printing" a small washer (shim) to place behind the prop, to give you a few mm.'s of extra clearance? That might be easier than block-sanding the nose flatter..   An ABS washer would be less likely to "slip" when the prop is tightened against the grooved-driver on the motor-shaft. The diameter only needs to be the size of the drive-plate.. and have an ID to match it's boss.. or the OD of the prop-screw; depending on the configuration.