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Post  ninjaman Sat Jun 18, 2016 7:34 pm

Hello,
I am new here and I am interested in control line flying. I bought a kit from an online seller and put it together. I bought some spectra paint, silver gloss. Apparently it has lead in it and the problem I am currently having is that the paint is dry but coming off on my skin when I touch the plane. I am guessing that may be I put on a little too much, I was supposed to coat it three times which I have.
Is the level of lead in the paint something for me to worry about. The amount that comes of isn't really a lot and I wash it off.
I have posted videos of my kit online, if anyone is interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIgDzkWjqRE
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Post  ian1954 Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:16 pm

I am guessing that you are based in the UK.

Spectra Silver paint has no lead in it. It is an enamel paint and fuel resistant - not fuel proof. It will not be happy with high nitro fuel though and any fuel residue must be wiped off immediately. Anything over 5% nitro will soften it.

I have only used it once but I applied Soectra clear over the top of it and it hardened up very quickly. Not used it on an IC engined model though.

If you applied it to bare wood then it will not stick very well. Did you seal the balsa with anything before applying it?

Any paint containing lead was banned in the UK in 1992.

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Post  Marleysky Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:29 pm

First off:  WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!  
SEcond: nice video!  You make it look so easy and quick. It is a "easy" built kit which is a good choice for your first build.
As far as the lead content of the paint, should not be of concern unless you plan on eating it!!  If it rubs off on your hand, you can( and should) wash your hands before eating with your fingers. You must have a older stash of paint. Lead use in paint was banned some time ago I believe.  I'm not familiar with spectra paints, but any time you need to lay down three coats for coverage, I would think you'd need to let each coat dry before applying the 2nd and 3rd.  I've read were some builders paint the model and hang it out in the garage for a couple of months to allow the paint to cure.  If the paint you have used is not "hot fuel proof" you should give the plane one or two coats of a Clear fuel proof paint.  Some guys have been using rust oleum  or DC aka: dupli-color automotive lacquer, as a final clear fuel proof coating.
Looks like you are having fun, there are lots of others who'll offer helpful hints!  Send more pictures and videos!
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Post  ninjaman Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:31 pm

i used a sanding sealer before hand.
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Post  pkrankow Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:43 pm

Metallics have a problem of rubbing off. A clear top coat is all that is needed to fuel proof ... well, within reason, and stop the color transfer. (Any time a not fuel proof coating is used under a fuel proof coating there is a risk of blistering, yet this is done by people at all levels and all ages with excellent results in general.)

Clear polyurethane varnish (the stinky stuff, not the water based stuff) is an excellent clear fuel proof coating that is available at most hardware stores. The big risk is weight as small planes only can be so heavy and still fly.

I like the video. Well edited to compress a lot of work into a couple minutes.

Phil
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Post  Oldenginerod Sun Jun 19, 2016 2:59 am

Just a couple of observations from your video Ninjaman. I'd be concerned about the elevator hinge not allowing good upward movement unless you have sanded a good 45 degree edge on both surfaces. You may have done so but I couldn't tell. I'm not a fan of that type of hinge. I would be using the "over and under" style cloth hinge or the stitched type.
Also, it looks like you've installed the firewall sideways. The groove is for the landing gear wire so that the engine clamps it in position.

Rod.
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Post  ninjaman Sun Jun 19, 2016 6:15 am

Hello,

Yes the elevator hinge is a bit of a problem at the moment. Having not done this before I think I would have left the elevator off until last. Getting that material to stick was awkward because the cyano went through it to my fingers. It doesn't look the neatest job either. I have sanded an angle into the elevator like you mentioned and there is upward movement, whether it is enough I don't yet know.
Thanks for the comments on the video!
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Post  getback Sun Jun 19, 2016 7:37 am

Welcome to the Forum !! and you may want to read on some of these links https://www.coxengineforum.com/search?search_keywords=stiched+hinges Did you get the engine mount turned for the wired landing gear ? and some support behind the mount ? What engine are you going to use ? Eric Small Cox Logo
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Post  ninjaman Sun Jun 19, 2016 10:24 am

Hello,

I haven't turned the engine mount for the landing gear. I am using a "Grey Bomber" .049, with the landing gear held in place between the engine and mount. The bell crank is causing some bother at the moment. The wing support is in the way of the bell cranks movement. I am thinking that I can just adjust the length of the lead outs to make up for the bell crank being at a funny angle.
I read the information on the side of the Gluelines Spectra paint. It says "this product contains lead...do not spray on", then something about being on parts that can be chewed by kids. So I still have some silver paint on my hands after mucking about with the bell crank. This things seems like some kind of death trap due the lead thing. Though whether or not there is lead in it and the tin has some mis-print or something.
Anyway, the rod from the bell crank is attached to the hinges.
Thanks for the input and support!

Simon:D
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Post  pkrankow Sun Jun 19, 2016 3:52 pm

Well, seal the plane instead of eating the plane. Wash your hands, and don't incinerate the plane when you are done.

Lead is rather over-hyped. It is a hazard, but it is a controllable hazard.

Phil
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