TD .051 crankshaft end play

Is the drive washer completely bottomed out on the shaft? Tightening a prop onto it won't be enough point force to push it back. I use a 5-40 socket head with a nut and screw the socket head in all the way and back the nut down to insure it's all the way on.

Ken, I noticed the end play as soon as I got the engine unstuck, so it was there before I removed the crank. Still, that doesn't prove the drive washer was fully seated before. When I re-installed it, I did use a prop to seat it. Your method sounds better. I will try to source a 5-40 hex nut to do the same.

Balogh, thanks for the advice. Good to know I can at least give it a test run. I will get a shim washer on order. My "other" hobby is guns, so I have cold blue on hand. The cylinder is heavily pitted, I'm not sure fresh bluing would improve things very much.

More than likely an electric starter was used on it which would account for the increase in play.

Phenolic washers can be sanded down to fit to clear up the gap, but to be honest it will run fine as is, I have several with excessive play and they work just fine. Backplate scuffing occurs even on new engines.

As to the cylinder pitting, you would be surprised what a wire wheel will clean up, although it will work fine as. If it’s a runner and not a display piece then it doesn’t really matter. Personally I would clean it up and re-blue it. Your engine your choice! Have fun with it.

Ron

Cribbs74 wrote:More than likely an electric starter was used on it which would account for the increase in play.

Ron

Yes.. and the crankpin-marks on the backplate too. Most experienced Cox engine owners know; their engines don't require a heavy-hand to start. I've seen the noses of models fractured.. (if not torn-off..) when a "Big Ol' electric starter" was used on a flooded engine.