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Post  fit90 Sat Feb 11, 2012 8:21 pm

I have a pair of VGE RR2's and I plan on modifying one of them. I am going to change the cylinder to a #4, change the crank shaft to a Killer Bee, change the drive plate to a red no drag drive plate and change the spinner to a red one. I will probably also have the piston lightened in time. I will keep all the original parts for reassembly/collector's sake but I have to see if I can improve upon an already awesome engine.

Am I doing a bad thing?

Bob
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Post  Cribbs74 Sat Feb 11, 2012 8:27 pm

Not in my opinion, it's your engine.

Do as you please! Besides apart from a lightened piston (which is internal) everything else can be changed back.
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Post  Jaspur_x Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:42 am

Why not do it is a better question.......I would if I had 2 of them in my collection lol!
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Post  PV Pilot Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:56 am

Will the Killer bee crank drive the rotary valve? I thought there was extra length on the crank rod pin to drive that valve.
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Post  nitroairplane Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:33 am

Go for it man!
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Post  Kim Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:20 am

Maybe get several good tach runs on the same engine you're changing so you have a good reference as to what the mods did?
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Post  SuperDave Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:31 am

Bob:

I believe that you are wise NOT to go beyond the "point of no return" in moding your engine especially if the "mods" don't achieve the desired results. Sad

Better to err on the side of caution. Huh...
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Post  RknRusty Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:31 pm

cribbs74 wrote:Not in my opinion, it's your engine.

Do as you please! Besides apart from a lightened piston (which is internal) everything else can be changed back.
Just don't lighten the piston that came in it and everything can go back to original. The piston is a matched set with the cylinder anyway, so you would be using the piston matched with the #4. I try not to separate the sets. Is it an old tapered #4 set or a new straight sided piston/cylinder?.
Just tag and bag everything but the crankcase and rear end, and gut it!

Like Kim said, get a baseline tach reading on it first, and go for it.

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Post  fit90 Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:30 pm

I did it. Because of my severe lack of patience I did not run the stock engine first. The Killer Bee crank works perfectly. In order to get the crank pin to engage the drum, the part of the con rod that goes over the crank pin is machined down several thousandths. Other than that it is a stock piston. This means that the only part that can not be replaced with a commercially available or easily modified part is the backplate/drum assembly. I hope to run it next weekend. My last tach died today so I hope to get all my tachometers running before next weekend. Even if it doesn't run wll it looks sexy as Hell, real eye candy.

Bob
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Post  fit90 Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:03 pm

Ran it today. After a few tanks of fuel I settled on the Galbreath head/Nelson plug. It was surprisingly easy to start with the spring starter. It only topped out around 15,000 RPM on the first tank. By the end of the third tank it was going up to 17,500 RPM. The other rotary type induction cox engines I have run all needed a definite breeaking in so I am still holding out hope that this one will be a screamer.
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