Special tuned Enya .049-II Series-4 engine

i know nothing about these engines but after seeing it I want one to add to my collection. the hardest part is figuring out which one loses shelf space. I hear its really dark and scary in the overflow box of misfit engines

Cribbs74 wrote:Admittedly I know nothing about Enya .049 engines however, Apart from the piston cutout I see nothing that could possibly boost performance. In fact with that muffler and assuming the cutout was for SPI it kinda negates that anyway. The piston while free to rotate would most likely pick a groove. Bluing the cylinder does nothing.

Keying the cylinder to allow the ports to run fore and aft is a desirable thing. Again negated when used with a muffler.

So… you have 2, one modified and one not. Why not run both and see which one performs better?

Enya calls their "muffler" a silencer.
It collect the castor oil than having no "silencer"
The muffler has more volume than a Cox muffler has.

I think the Bluing is to make it different from a non-modified .049 ( makes it more visible -- different.)

ChaseBanner wrote:i know nothing about these engines but after seeing it I want one to add to my collection. the hardest part is figuring out which one loses shelf space. I hear its really dark and scary in the overflow box of misfit engines

If you really want one, then you'll be envious of the photo below:
Five --- Enya .049-II
Eight --- Enya .06-II
One --- Enya .09-III
One --- Enya .10
All "New in Boxes"

I'm glad to see you carrying the torch for these Mike.  Keeps them alive on this forum.  I especially like those Mikoken engines.  Works of art.

But it's a shame to keep them tucked away in boxes, that way you just have them rather than enjoying them.  I have my Timex/Enya tree right beside my desk that I can look at and enjoy every day.  Dust protected but visual.

Small display cases allow you to have them and enjoy them at the same time.  Ever thought about putting some in small display cases?  They work well for some of my more special locomotives.  I can see the box and the engine for it side by side.  





Edit add

Which got me to thinking. I should talk, I keep all my NIB Enyas tucked away.

This plus this

The cylinders came both as plain and blackened, so that is not related any tuning.

The "tuning" of the piston looks rather DIY to me, normally one would shave of an even amount all around the piston skirt and much less than a full 1mm. I guess you'll have to run it order to find out if the modification is good or bad...

I would be curious to make a comparison with a non-modifying version vs this modifying engine I agree with the idea of rsv1cox (bob) Keeping them confined in a box it's a shame I like to look at mine also through the glass I believe that with a collection such as yours you will also need a glass cabinet I have never had one of these small engine one day I will surely find one I have some enya I have a good point to say about enya engine is for Most of them very well made.

That's great, but how do you stop it getting dusty on the outside?  

rsv1cox wrote:

They actually include one of these anti static duster thingies.

Oldenginerod wrote:That's great, but how do you stop it getting dusty on the outside?  

rsv1cox wrote:

these would do me no good...then id have to clean my engines, that coat of dust is vintage too you know

I have done a few engines in cases for friends and my brother as gifts.
Here is my brother's Fox 36X stunt engine from 1974 (about)
Gave it to him last Christmas.






I rebuilt the engine back to factory spec. along with the nylon nub that goes on the crank pin.
If that is worn out and not replaced the engine after a while will self destruct.
And MECOA has none "in stock" so I made my own!





And the other engine (McCoy 35 with thunder bolt on the crankcase)- red head was for a friend who had heart surgery at the end of 2019. I gave it to Glen, last year as well.


What I'm thinking of doing is to have one set of each Enya engines on display.
Example:
The Rear induction engines -- .049 then .049 T.V control then .06 Glow / .06 Diesel then .06 Glow/diesel T.V control
Then the .049-II Series 1 then 2 then 3 then 4
Next the .06-II Glow Series 1 then 2 then 3 then 4
and then the .06-II Diesel Series 1 then 2 then 3 then 4
Then the Enya .08 Series 1 then 2 then 3 then 4
and last the Enya .10 Series 1 then 2 then 3 then 4

During the pandemic I took inventory of the engines and the ones I needed to still acquire and I have most of what I need to get it done?
When I get it done, I'll post the finished project here.
By the way, does anyone know what each "Series" is on each of these Enya's?

Surfer_kris wrote:The cylinders came both as plain and blackened, so that is not related any tuning.

The "tuning" of the piston looks rather DIY to me, normally one would shave of an even amount all around the piston skirt and much less than a full 1mm. I guess you'll have to run it order to find out if the modification is good or bad...

The Enya .049-II engines never were Blued (blackened) from the factory.
This is the first one that I have that is this way?
I know because I have thirty-seven Enya .049 engines.
Only the .06 / .08 and .10 have blackened cylinders (for the many of those engines I have)

[quote="sosam117"]I have done a few engines in cases for friends and my brother as gifts.
Here is my brother's Fox 36X stunt engine from 1974 (about)
Gave it to him last Christmas.
[technically arent we all brothers? nice job, im sure ur brother appreciates the thought just as much as he does the display. looks great man

ChaseBanner wrote:

sosam117 wrote:I have done a few engines in cases for friends and my brother as gifts.
Here is my brother's Fox 36X stunt engine from 1974 (about)
Gave it to him last Christmas.
[technically arent we all brothers? nice job, im sure ur brother appreciates the thought just as much as he does the display. looks great man

My "older" brother flew U-control stunt from 1973 to 1979 and the planes he flew in competition were the Ring Master (with McCoy 29), The Magician (with the Fox 36X) and the Nobler(with the McCoy 35).
He did very well and has a few trophies that he won at the AMA Nat.
I did that engine (Fox 36X stunt) because it was in his favorite plane (The Magician) and if you look at the 2nd photo where the engine is facing left, he engraved his initials into the engine right below the 36X.

I had the same engine and it took quite some time to get the engine broken in to where it would run well.
Especially when you wanted the 2-4-2 break in the engine run in maneuvers.
Mine was (is) still tight.
I had the Fox 36X in the Topflite Cosmic Wind flying in the Jr. class for speed.
I also flew stunts, but not as well as my brother. I flew a Jr. Ring Master with a McCoy 19--Red Head with thunderbolts on the engine housing.

Dad gave the planes away to a guy at work who was wanting to fly planes with his son as well.
But dad did keep the engines.
Dad threw them in an old Folgers coffee (tin) can. If your old enough to remember coffee cam in tin cans?
And they were stuck, gummed up, cruddy looking in a rusting tin can.

As usual, I took them out of the can, cleaned them up and rebuilt them.

sosam117 wrote:

ChaseBanner wrote:

sosam117 wrote:I have done a few engines in cases for friends and my brother as gifts.
Here is my brother's Fox 36X stunt engine from 1974 (about)
Gave it to him last Christmas.
[technically arent we all brothers? nice job, im sure ur brother appreciates the thought just as much as he does the display. looks great man

My "older" brother flew U-control stunt from 1973 to 1979 and the planes he flew in competition were the Ring Master (with McCoy 29), The Magician (with the Fox 36X) and the Nobler(with the McCoy 35).
He did very well and has a few trophies that he won at the AMA Nat.
I did that engine (Fox 36X stunt) because it was in his favorite plane (The Magician) and if you look at the 2nd photo where the engine is facing left, he engraved his initials into the engine right below the 36X.

I had the same engine and it took quite some time to get the engine broken in to where it would run well.
Especially when you wanted the 2-4-2 break in the engine run in maneuvers.
Mine was (is) still tight.
I had the Fox 36X in the Topflite Cosmic Wind flying in the Jr. class for speed.
I also flew stunts, but not as well as my brother. I flew a Jr. Ring Master with a McCoy 19--Red Head with thunderbolts on the engine housing.

Dad gave the planes away to a guy at work who was wanting to fly planes with his son as well.
But dad did keep the engines.
Dad threw them in an old Folgers coffee (tin) can. If your old enough to remember coffee cam in tin cans?
And they were stuck, gummed up, cruddy looking in a rusting tin can.

As usual, I took them out of the can, cleaned them up and rebuilt them.

i knew there was a good story behind something given that most just take for granted

Way to go Mike. We share the same passion. Nothing like cleaning up, running, saving, sharing, and displaying these engines.

Bob

Sosam, the nylon button, is that just ordinary nylon or a special nylon ?

I assume it's fuel proof ?

I need to make something similar for a magnum gp40 gudgeon pin/wrist pin, to control pin endfloat

Coxfledgling wrote:Sosam, the nylon button, is that just ordinary nylon or a special nylon ?

I assume it's fuel proof ?

I need to make something similar for a magnum gp40 gudgeon pin/wrist pin, to control pin endfloat

The material I made it from is Teflon (PTFE) rods, so it will last longer than the nylon and I didn't have to worry about the fuel.
I purchased the rods from Amazon's website from a company called Sterling Seal & Supply Inc.


The rods are 6 inches in length and are in different sizes (1/8" -- 3/16" -- 1/4" -- 5/16" -- and 3/8")
Sterling Seal & Supply Inc. website is:
www.sterlingseal.com

I cut the diameter down by using brass tubing sharpened on the end.
Put the tubing into the drill press and then inserted the rod into my machinist vise and using the tubing to cut the diameter I needed.
For example:
The bigger dia. is 1/8" -- then using a 3/32" I.D. tubing to cut into the 1/8" dia. rod. down to a 1/8" depth.
Turn off the drill press, remove the brass rod from the drill press jaws and then open the machinist vice.
Now carefully cut the PTFE 1/8: dia to the brass tubing at the 1/8" depth. I used a Zona saw with fine teeth to cut it all the way around as I slowly turned the brass tubing.
You can feel when the Zona saw hits the brass tubing. When cut all the way around, now remove the tubing.
With the tubing will come the 1/8" dia that you cut off.
Now all you have to do is cut about 1/8" above the reduced size to leave the 1/8" dia O.D.

I have made replacement plugs for piston wrist pins using the method above.
I finish the length of the plugs by inserting then in the wrist pin the insert the pin into the piston then using a very sharp X-acto knife blade shave the pins flush with the piston.








I carefully cut down the plug at the end of the Crankshaft to give me the original end play on the crank.
I also added copper shims on the front of the crank housing for the same amount of end play.
Using a electric starter really didn't help out on the engine. Probably why the McCoy engines had these on the end of the crank?

rsv1cox wrote:Way to go Mike.  We share the same passion.  Nothing like cleaning up, running, saving, sharing, and displaying these engines.  

Bob

It was great to be able to give my "older" brother the Fox 36X engine in the case.
We talked about how competitive we were at who was the better U-control flier.
Remembering how dad was our "ground crew" and getting our engines started.
My brother "Jim" remembering how that Cosmic Wind really pulled at me when I flew it.
It scared the heck out of me when I did fly it! I was only 14 or 15 years old and weighted about 100lbs and I think that plane pulled at 30lbs? It had lead on the outside wing for centrifugal force to keep it pulling on the lines.

Also remembered the time when the judges were checking on one of Jim's plane and the mount for the bell crank failed.
What they did to check that was, they had a "U" shaped handle that would clip onto your lines coming out of your wing.
That "U" handle was then hooked up to a fish scale and then pulled on your plane by the profile fuse to see if your plane was safe for flight.
I don't remember what the passing pull (weight) was? I was too young to worry about that.
How many of you guys check your bell crank for it's strength? With the oil soaking into the wood it will weaken over time.
The other safety item was the strap that is attached to the handle, then the strap was cinched to your wrist (for safety)
Two of the safety requirements when Jim and I competed in AMA events.
It was great remembering the younger years that the Fox engine brought back.

Then we talked about how I liked flying the 1/2A planes for competition.
1/2A Lil Satin with the Cox .049 Thimble Drone engine.
The 1/2A Swordsman with the Cox .049 Silver Bee
The Lil Jumpin Bean with my Golden Bee for stunts.
Last was the my scale plane from Topflite -- P40 Warhawk with another Golden Bee for Jr. Scale competition.

Like the ptfe bushing for the conecting rod on the crank pin Good upgrades i nead the same parts for m'y .35 modified enya wil try Find that stuf

davidll1984 wrote:Like the ptfe bushing for the conecting rod on the crank pin Good upgrades i nead the same parts for m'y .35 modified enya wil try Find that stuf

I like to make replacement parts as close to original as I can.
For your Enya .35 find a ptfe rod that will fit into the hole (make sure it's a tight fit) then just cut it off.
What you are looking for is some type of material that will take the heat and fuel and keep the crank from moving to far aft into the back plate.

What I found out from Ken Enya was that Dr. Furusaki [Mikoken] balances the crank/conrod/ wrist pin and piston for the top end (RPM)of those little engines by removing the weight from the piston because there is not much that can be removed from the crankshaft.
And reducing the reciprocation weight of the piston is more favorable than trying to remove whatever the weight from the end of the crank.

So, that cutout in the piston is to reduce the piston mass and has nothing to do with SPI.

Thanks Guys!

Nevertheless, the way it has been done it effectively creates a massive SPI.

The way to reduce weight, without creating SPI, is to make the piston skirt thinner, not shorter...