stuck from long term storage

The first thing I would do is remove the glow head and the backplate screws that hold it together. Next squirt a little fuel on top of the piston and inside the cylinder on the piston ball socket and crankshaft. Allow a few seconds for the fuel to penetrate, then try to turn the crankshaft. If there is no rust, it should turn over.

You then should remove the needle and the reed assembly and clean them with fuel. Make sure congealed fuel is removed from the venturi spraybar.

If it is just castor causing it to be stuck, fuel will allow things to unstick.

Apply some light machine oil and reassemble.

George

gcb wrote:The first thing I would do is remove the glow head and the backplate screws that hold it together. Next squirt a little fuel on top of the piston and inside the cylinder on the piston ball socket and crankshaft. Allow a few seconds for the fuel to penetrate, then try to turn the crankshaft. If there is no rust, it should turn over.

You then should remove the needle and the reed assembly and clean them with fuel. Make sure congealed fuel is removed from the venturi spraybar.

If it is just castor causing it to be stuck, fuel will allow things to unstick.

Apply some light machine oil and reassemble.

George

yup thats the way i do it the engines that i get that are frozen, works wonders for me

Get yourself a pair of wrenches if you dont have them.
If you use pliers, you could be banned from the forum.
Bob

dckrsn wrote:Get yourself a pair of wrenches if you dont have them.
If you use pliers, you could be banned from the forum.
Bob

AMEN!

George

Remember that crankshafts as well as pistons may be "frozen" by castor oil residue. A good soaking, like overnite, usually frees the parts.

I recommend Hoppe's #9 Gun Cleaning solvent for the soak.

gcb wrote:

dckrsn wrote:Get yourself a pair of wrenches if you dont have them.
If you use pliers, you could be banned from the forum.
Bob

AMEN!

George

Yes AMEN.

Let's be clear, lads. Cox "spanner style" wrenches specifically designed for a particular sized engine displacement. There is no "universal wrench" for Cox engines.

They are best used in pairs rather than as singles. Cox engines have them as standard equipment when new.

Trying to take part a froze engine cold will give you grief. I have/ bought/sold/traded well over a hundred Cox engine and have not had any problem with taking them apart. I do not buy rusted or out right abused engines. Liquid wrench/ monocote heat gun/ tranny fluid and correct tools and your good to go. Soaking in denatured alky helps also. Old dried castor get hard and not easy to remove. .45 cal bore brush cleans those liners just fine.

dankar04 wrote: I do not buy rusted or out right abused engines..

I do, anybody got any?

Ivanhoe wrote:

dankar04 wrote: I do not buy rusted or out right abused engines..

I do, anybody got any?

Anderson spitzy.

One good thing about castor is that it protects inside of engines. Even rusted engines can be brought back to life. For personel use a rusted engine is fine. Depends on ehat you like. I have a good friend in England who has a bunch of my small engines. Just sent him a very potent Webra 1.cc Diesel.

dankar04 wrote:......................Liquid wrench/ monocote heat gun/ tranny fluid and correct tools and your good to go. Soaking in denatured alky helps also. Old dried castor get hard and not easy to remove. .45 cal bore brush cleans those liners just fine.

+1

I also soak in acetone --- the small plastic tupperware tubs with a screw on top work great. Large enough to lay an engine in, but small enough not to take a lot of acetone to cover --- and the screw on top seals in the odor and stops evaporation.

I also keep a tub just for the nozzels on my CA bottles. I keep a spare nozzle that has not had the tip clipped off and use it to cap the bottle when I'm finished at the building board. I drop the one I had been using into the acetone tub and it's completely clean when I'm ready to use it again. I keep several sections of small ID teflon tubing on hand to stick in the end of the spout. This gives me greater reach and the small ID provides good control when gluing -- it also goes into the acetone soak at the end of the day.

I got all five of them apart and cleaned up nicely. PB Blaster, patience, brass brush, patience, soaking, patience, elbow grease, patience. NO PLIERS!!!! BUT, BUT, BUT, NO PLIERS DUMMY! They will kick you out of the forum!!!!!

Thank you, my new found friends,
David

daviddiag wrote:I got all five of them apart and cleaned up nicely. PB Blaster, patience, brass brush, patience, soaking, patience, elbow grease, patience. NO PLIERS!!!! BUT, BUT, BUT, NO PLIERS DUMMY! They will kick you out of the forum!!!!!

Thank you, my new found friends,
David

That is good to hear.