Scratch Built Baby Ringmaster.

Fireball wrote:Thanks to both of you.  Aero Gloss Sanding Sealer& Dope on 000 silkspan, then rattle can gloss Rustolium.  Can't use flat, it's not hot fuel proof.

RknRusty wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:I have never even tried to see if Rustoleum is fuel proof on it's own.  Some say yes and some say no. I decided to err on the side of caution and just shoot TF clear over it like Jim mentioned.

For 5-6$ a can it's cheap insurance and it works very well. Be sure your Rustoleum is good and cured before you spray it on though.

Ron

I use plain Rustoleum non-metallics on some things I'm not particular about and it appears to be pretty fuel resistant and unharmed by exhaust goo. There's a little color on the rag when I clean it with alcohol, so that's telling. But so far, on my oldest Baby Streak and my Shoestring where there are some unprotected painted repairs, neither fuel from exhaust or many many cleanings has made it look bad, and it's still glossy and doesn't melt or stay soft.

But like Ron says, it's best to spray some TF LustreKote over it, especially where you might spill raw fuel on it. Do it in light applications or it will orange peel the paint, even after weeks of curing in front of a furnace vent. And warm it with hot air or in a pot of hot water until the can is very hot, and it will flow beautifully. I do that with the Rustoleum and the LustreKote, and get nice glassy finishes.

The bare metallics and color changing Rustoleum are instant puke on contatact with fuel.

Rusty

Ken Cook wrote:         I use this paint extensively anymore. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it right. The finishes I've achieved though have been incredibly nice. I use nitro for the majority of my 1/2A's in the 40-50% range and I found this paint to withstand raw fuel directly on it. Very little paint is required but it takes a series of coats to attain depth and coverage. Approx 5-6 coats. This paint defies all other paints in terms of using it. It shines better on humid days whereas the others would blush or turn milky white on you. It can be recoated prior to the first coat being dry. It goes on with a sponge brush. I use distilled water to thin the paint.

One thing I found out the hard way. I was cleaning the sponge brushes in soapy water typically dish detergent. These soaps are highly concentrated and almost impossible to rinse out of the sponges. Soap reduces the surface tension of water as well. When the paint was being applied it would go on beautifully and minutes later it was just running off due to the reduced surface tension in the water.

It does take a lot of practice but it can be thinned with water. I've used the water based epoxy primer which sands beautifully. I've yet to see a dope finish stand the test of time where this stuff does. Jerry Nelson was the owner and this is when I purchased my product, since then John Diselets purchased the business and I've yet to purchase from him. We have exchanged e-mails however and I'm due to buy some more. For those interested, it practically has no smell, dries in a few minutes. I've flown the following day. http://www.nelsonhobby.com/hobby_paint.php  Ken