Soldering iron?

Hey Jim, a 25-30w pencil type iron is sufficient for most model work. You can get one for less than $10 at most hardware stores. Buy some extra tips for that iron if you can. The tips are often different sizes between brands of irons.. so get some that are made to fit. Look for both; pointed and chisel tips.

Wear safety glasses when doing solder-work... including pre/post cleaning.

Practice making joints before you make the joints on your model. Make sure the parts to be joined are CLEAN.. by sanding any rust-prohibiting coatings off.. and use a paste flux... even if your solder has a flux-core. This will help to further clean the metals.. and help the solder flow into the joint. Wash the corrosive flux off afterward with solvent and a toothbrush.

Make sure that the iron's tip is tight. Some are threaded/screw-on... and some are held in by a set-screw. Check the tip often.. because the heating/cooling between uses can cause it to loosen up. A loose tip will have you scratching your head.. because a LOT of heat transfer is lost... and the solder may not melt/flow. Heat BOTH PARTS simultaneously to be joined... not the solder. The parts need to get up to the temperature of the tip.. or you'll end up with a "cold-joint" that will fail under stress. When holding parts together to be soldered... try to use a method that won't "sink heat" away from the area to be soldered. Use wooden spring-type clothes-pins to hold small parts.. or lay the parts on a block of wood. Avoid metal clamps.. or put thin wood pads between the jaws. HEAT and CLEANLINESS are key!

Roddie's adise is solid and based on experience.

Additionally I'd add use the correct type of solder acid or resin which is most appropriate for NON-electrical applications.

SD

Jim,
I use a similar torch as SD uses. with an adjustable flame and butane bottles. It comes with a soldering tip that you can mount for finer work. But for tank construction or even pushrods, the flame will do well.



Lieven

I believe the UTLITY of the Weller Butane Portosol overcomes the extra expense. Read my previous posts on this thread,

E'nuf said. Make your own choice.

SD

Jim, I bought a small Butane torch while I was contemplating my recent tank-work. I haven't used it yet... but it was around $20.00 at a Home Depot/Lowe's home center type store. My little 25-30w. electric iron ended up working fine for my purposes. I realize you said you didn't want to "break the bank" with this purchase... There's no need to spend more than $30.00 total (iron, solder, paste-flux) to get your "feet wet" in starting out soldering. You can then decide if you want to go with something bigger; like an adjustable-heat soldering station... or a more expensive micro-torch with more features... like electronic ignition.

The Micro-Torch I bought is a "BernzOmatic" model ST-200 which comes with a soldering tip and a "hot-blower" feature. It does NOT have electronic ignition.. and must be lit with a separate sparker/flame source. The Butane is purchased separately... but I already had some on hand for refilling grill lighters.

Here's a demo vid: