SIG Akromaster CL20 instruction book

Hey Richard , I thought there was only a booklet ? Plans ? is that a full size sheet ? sorry I don't remember what I need are the building instructions. Eric

haven't heard from Richard but ,if you do its Joe to the rescue again!! Thanks All !! Eric

Here you go. Scanned at letter size paper.
Also, in no particular order....

If this does not work, pm me your e-mail address and I can send them to you.

Eric, There is two parts to the Akromaster, the instruction book & a single page plan showing how to & more written instructions.
I think that my plan is from a much older kit & it didnt come with the instruction book.

I did not have an instruction book in my kit either. This is all that I have in my kit. I am also curious to see the instruction book also.

Having built several of these, let me make a structural recommendation. The plans show a joiner of what appears to be a piece of 1/8" x 3/8" hard balsa and sometimes bass to join the elevator sections. This is a horrible design and results in failure. All of mine that I built early on failed in flight. Cut the front of the elevator halves off and run a continuous strip of 3/8" bass across the front. This not only results in stronger, it's also straighter. I personally recommend extending the wing span another rib bay, but the model flies ok without doing so. It really does fair better when extended. These models fly faster than larger stunt models and need too due to the wing area and the weight of the engines. Ken

Did you get what you were looking for? I think I have an Un-opened kit at home, I can look for you. Let me know.

Got it !! Also contacted Sig they said (there is NO book only instruction sheet ) they scanned and also sent me the copy as that new222 had posted . so I am set to build soon to start , Ken I will heave the advice Thank You ! Eric

Thanks to similar topics < pretty cool Jason .. can this plane bee built in two difft. w/s ? A mean old rat /mouse got to it before me and has been gnawing, But could bee repaired to work at a longer length so longer is better??

The Akromaster is quite overbuilt. It flies superior to the TURD like performance of the Ringmaster JR which in my opinion is one of the worst flying .15 sized planes. It flies nothing like a full size Ringmaster. However, the .15 sized Ringmaster Flash flies almost too good to be true with the same wing as the JR.

In stock form it works ok. If your learning maneuvers and have a .15, this is a great stepping stone. With some simple modifications, it can work very well. The plane is only 250 squares. Essentially, modern 1/2A's are of the same size today. It all boils down to wing loading. Modern .15's make the plane quite heavy and adding the muffler makes things waaaayyyyyyy too heavy. Power cuts and the plane is headed for the ground like a meteor. Adding tail weight will get it turning in the maneuvers but the glide path will resemble a train car coming in for a landing. .15 sized planes fly fast, this doesn't exactly make them a terrific choice for precision maneuvers but they will do the maneuvers provided you keep up the speed.

At 34" the wingspan is at the just enough point. Widening the wingspan a additional bay on each wing panel assists it's flying characteristics quite a bit. However, it's not necessary if you keep the plane as light as possible. The Akromaster works just fine in STOCK form provided you don't go overboard. This means no paint or very little. Covering the wings with the lightest covering you have is also good. I had silkspan on mine with 3 coats of clear no color. The only thing I did was to put tissue on the tips for decoration.

Lightweight plastic and foam park flyer wheels , wood props, no spinners are all important factors. The Akromaster was designed around the Fox .15X which is very light and offers good power provided you don't offer it 8" props.

I don't know when I will bee able with my garden going on , But that's a possibility

In addition, Sig plywood which is typically lite-ply is absolute crap. Throw that stuff out and use proper plywood. In this case you could substitute the doubler material with 1/32" ply. In doing so, this may require a pad under the engine lug. I use aluminum or phenolic pads. Whenever gluing doublers onto a profile, the engine will benefit from keeping the inboard doubler completely solid. Do not cutout for the engine bearers. This is why i suggested pads under the lugs as they may be required to achieve the depth of the crankcase. Don't make the cutout between the engine bearers too tight as this can cause vibration as well. Insure you have enough meat to support the lugs but leave clearance between the bearers and the case.

The Sig bellcrank provided in the Akro is the same bellcrank used for 1/2A's. I'm not a personal fan of using it on a .15 sized plane. If used, insure that it's through bolted and not screwed with wood screws.

The Akromaster is essentially a small Twister. That being said, Ted Fancher redesigned the Twister which has come to be known as the "Fancherized" version. My flying buddy Larry did the same mods to his Akromaster which made it fly extremely well. The fuse was lengthened which allowed for a LA .15 and it really is most impressive. Unfortunately, he used pink Monokote and pink paint which had all of us kidding him about it.

One thing I was never very happy with was the relationship of the engine cutout to the doubler. I found the tank needed to raise a bit on mine which essentially had my tank flush to the top of the doubler. I just put my hooks on the inboard side to attach my rubber bands. If I was to build another, I would lower my engine centerline and I would sink my tank into the fuse.