feed back on this engine

pkrankow wrote:I have one of those.  I have benched it.  Literal second flip hand start.  Sounded good, held reasonable steady RPMs by ear (with hearing protection) and needled fine.  I was running on a large clunk tank.

Muffler gaskets are the same as Cox head gaskets, but aluminum, so if you need it to face another direction, this is easy.  A tube or hose can be clamped on to direct exhaust elsewhere, or a fitting can be used to make it piped.  (I don't remember the thread size, but I think it is comparable with a NPT pipe thread, I had a brass fitting in the garage that matched acceptably well)

The carb/case joint is an uncommon size.  So I have to MAKE an intake for control line or "suffer" with a wired open exhaust.  This has caused the engine to be put on the back burner for the time being.  

I should just mount it and use it wired open.  I have not yet solved the landing gear problem on the plane in question... I should probably go without there too since I fly on grass.

Pop the back and wash it out, there were no chips in mine but there was some black smudge in there.  Came out instantly with some fuel.  Might have been an assembly grease or might have been something else entirely.

Phil

What plane are you using it on?

A bunch of us were flying .15 size foamie combat planes. Out of the engines we used, the AP yellow jacket .15 was one of them. The other .15's were the OS LA .15, OS FP.15, Fox .15 BB, Norvel .15. We had high hopes for the AP due to cost and rear exhaust and true ABC. AP offered a control line version venturi which was way too big to run on suction, the r/c carb has multiple air leaks causing run issues. The muffler is good for converting fuel back into oil and it robs approx. 1500 rpm's using it. However, the r/c carb when fixed, it yielded very smooth transitions from idle to full throttle. It started very easy hot and cold, but the rear exhaust is a problem if on a control line bird unless you made a manifold to get it out of the way of the tank. I suppose for the money it could be made to work if one was inclined to do so. The LA engines minus the rear remote needle valve and the upfront setup are dead reliable but will easily double the cost of the engine you pictured. Ken

Ken Cook wrote:          A bunch of us were flying .15 size foamie combat planes. Out of the engines we used, the AP yellow jacket .15 was one of them. The other .15's were the OS LA .15, OS FP.15, Fox .15 BB, Norvel .15. We had high hopes for the AP due to cost and rear exhaust and true ABC. AP offered a control line version venturi which was way too big to run on suction, the r/c carb has multiple air leaks causing run issues. The muffler is good for converting fuel back into oil and it robs approx.  1500 rpm's using it. However, the r/c carb when fixed, it yielded very smooth transitions from idle to full throttle. It started very easy hot and cold, but the rear exhaust is a problem if on a control line bird unless you made a manifold to get it out of the way of the tank. I suppose for the money it could be made to work if one was inclined to do so. The LA engines minus the rear remote needle valve and the upfront setup are dead reliable but will easily double the cost of the engine you pictured. Ken

Ken besides the obvious issues you have mentioned,do you think the engine itself has enough power to fly .15 size c/l planes with good power?
The air leaks should be fixable I would think.And the muffler issue,couldn't you mount the tank inbd instead of outbd which is mostly done on c/l planes to eliminate tank space issues?Or point eng inbd and keep tank outbd?I'm just trying figure if there is away to use this engine for c/l.
Jim

Nice thing I like about the AP/ASP .15 is the angled needle valve, which would help it from being snapped off in a crash or nose over. Just never bothered to purchase as I have other .15's. I think the muffler can be moved so it doesn't blow exhaust down the bottom when upright, which is undesirable in a profile sidewinder mounted.

Tried an Enya .15-III TV with throttle wired wide open on my Ringmaster Jr. Ran fine, no sagging, even did the dry-2, wet-2, dry-2 in and out of stunts. I broke tradition using an R/C engine, but gathered it more a mind over matter issue. If you don't mind, it don't matter.

Ringmaster Jr. was the plan.

Phil

I have an AP Hornet .09, only had it on the test stand but it was a strong runner.

I just since this and I was cured " Tired of all those electric planes infesting your local club?

I'm actually in the process of building a carrier model for this motor, a 24" span bearcat. I'll let you know how it goes.

Jim

getback wrote:  I just since this and I was cured " Tired of all those electric planes infesting your local club?

I've been enjoying the early spring weather with this:
I Remember April, George on Beaugnier Vito Bari Sax

If I hadn't read Ken's review, this one would be on my wish list. I love their sales pitch too.

Tired of all those electric planes infesting your local club?
This high-rpm huge power glow engine can swing a 8x4 prop with ease. No need to worry about expensive batteries here. Just re-fuel and you're off.
Scream through the sky all day with our 15 size 2-stroke glow engine.

I have done some testing with the AP .09




Published on Jan 13, 2016

AP 09 / 1.5cc Tuned Pipe /APC 4.75x5.5 / 22.24k / 116mph Static
20% Nitro and Oil / Pipe is from Russia made for .09 engines and
tuned length for 25k running per Alan aka ASpeed at RCU / RCG

Should unload well to 25k / 130mph with a clean pylon plane.

If you decide on this engine do your self a favor and order from one of the USA warehouses.... I have had terrible luck with ordering from hongKong

This engine is in stock right now in USA west warehouse for $35.06

Thanks, 1/2A Nut for posting that video. I hadn’t realized that one could do a hop up of the AP/ASP .09 using a tuned pipe, which makes sense.

Hobbypartz is completely out of the .09. From what I gather, the .09 and .15 use the same crankcase and possibly same connecting rod, but the .09 has a thicker liner wall to downsize the combustion chamber, making it slightly heavier (165 g or 5.8 oz, 12.5 mm bore x 12 mm stroke, 1.47 cc versus 155 g or 5.5 oz, 15.5 mm x 12 mm, 2.26 cc)

With the greater power, the lighter weight .15 seems a reasonable power plant. Prop to reduced thrust if required to maintain appropriate stunt lap times on CL. These due to the brass cylinder and ball bearings are a little on the heavy side, almost the same weight as the McCoy Red Head .19 at 6 oz (170 g). According to Peter Chinn (Spectreflight), my Enya .15-III TV is 5.3 oz (150 g, 6.6 oz or 187 g w/muffler). OS .15FP is 5.0 oz (142 oz, w/o silencer).

These weights have made the diminutive 200 sq. in. (12.9 sq. dm) Ringmaster Jr. less responsive over the larger Ringmaster S-1, making it very nose heavy. That's for an airframe designed for the lighter weights of the .15's of the day of around 3.5 oz (99 g). I think something with 300 sq. in. (19.4 sq. dm) would be more suited for these heavier engines. Haven't given this larger size a shot yet but has gotten my noggin thinking.

fredvon4 wrote:If you decide on this engine do your self a favor and order from one of the USA warehouses.... I have had terrible luck with ordering from hongKong. This engine is in stock right now in USA west warehouse for $35.06

Fred, I haven't ordered from Hobby King in Hong Kong yet. Is ordering from Hong Kong a general problem or is it with Hobby King? Reason why I ask is that they have a 2.4 GHz transmitter deck that can be retrofitted to an old RC transmitter on outdated frequencies, so one can reuse it again.

George two problems with the global warehouse.... if, at the time you order the item shows in stock, but as orders are processed yours becomes "out of stock" they back order it and the communication from them sucks about this.... I never found a way to just CXL an order once processed

The other should be obvious issue is their weigh of items in you cart and cost of the shipping.....their software tries to tell you that you can add XXX more grams for the same price of shipping....obviously this helps increase their sales.... but we all rationalize how to spread the shipping over more items so not to pay $10 shipping to get $2.99 item... makes sense....

Except every time I inflate my order---- at final check out the shipping weight exceeded the previous estimate and it jumped a new $5 or $6 bucks... and back to the round robin of adding or deleting items

I like and Hate HK in this regard because I have bough some items...chargers and batteries.... that are MUCH cheaper then from other sources and side by side my estimate is I got a deal

side problem is the USA ware houses do not have the vast amount of all things HK has to offer and sometimes dealing with the global warehouse is still a good deal.....BUT NOT for a Large sized item like a 1/4 scale ARF

While on the topic of reviewing HK stuff, I LOVE the LSD NiMH AA batteries. Bang for the buck is just awesome. The short term performance is there, I use them in toys for my kids and recharge about weekly, usually 2 or more sets. I have probably saved hundreds of dollars over buying alkaline batteries, or name brand rechargeable batteries too for that matter. ($7 for 4, vs $20 for 4, hmm...)

I use a couple different NiMH chargers for fast and slow charging, slow is better on the batteries. The highest capacity are supposed to have fewer recharge cycles in them, some 500 or so, while the older lower capacity batteries have more cycles... I haven't had to throw any out yet so its good.

Added benefit: unlike alkaline batteries they do not swell or gas off if fully discharged so my expensive flashlights live longer.

I need to add a few more of those on if there is weight space in my next order.

Phil

The AP.09 is a bit lighter also uses less fuel in stock form
allowing less on board weight / size fuel tank if room is limited.
Note it can turn up more rpm and the robust aluminum con rod
can handle high rpm with a tuned pipe. The carb is the same
for both engines and is better suited for the .09. Lastly the
.09 runs cooler than the .15.