Repairs Bits and Pieces

I like that fire plane.

If you'd build your planes with that inboard tripler extended all the way to the nose, it would and a huge amount of strength and vibration resistance. Does the fire plane have front end doublers?
Rusty

Not my plane, nor do I know the design, but after looking at it, I would say no doublers.

The Guesing NEW.

RknRusty wrote:I like that fire plane.

If you'd build your planes with that inboard tripler extended all the way to the nose, it would and a huge amount of strength and vibration resistance. Does the fire plane have front end doublers?
Rusty

Eric mentioned Ringmaster Bipe.  I'd say it's one of the laser cut kits Roger Harris did for us.  I grabbed two.  Strange that he has the flames painted on.  Roger actually laser-cut the flames into a ply doubler, which Eric doesn't seem to have used.
Remember this?

Crap !! No Eric didn't use them for some stupid reason, was liking them as templates for the flames !! I am pretty sure my elevator doesn't go to the top any more . Maybe I should change my post to DO YOU SEE ANY THING WRONG WITH THIS PLANE, I got to take a look at the landing gear mount also . I had some trouble deciding witch engine mount to use , decisions are NOT my virtue. I still have the doublers will have to take a look at that and see what I can do I am sure it needs them for the balance C.G. Jumping from one plane to another I guess is not a good idea not to mention I haven't read the directions? getback

OK, since you asked. I would like to point out that it is on a bench and not in the air.

NEW222 wrote:OK, since you asked. I would like to point out that it is on a bench and not in the air.

Eric, the plane you picture is the Beginner's Ringmaster Bipe. It was never intended to be balanced. In stock form the plane is very nose heavy. It's designed around a beginner . Most manufactured designed planes which were built around a integral tanked bee are going to come out nose heavy due to them protruding so far out. If your still in the crashing mode, I would highly recommend to bolt an engine on it and fly it as is. The wing areas are small and the wingspans narrow. Speed is your best friend here. So while the plane will fly with a single ported bee, it will do even better with a dual ported cylinder and no landing gear.

These planes fall like a brick when the engine runs out of fuel. The cart wheel tumble usually breaks the top wing off and breaks the struts off of the fuse and lower wing. The landing gear is partially responsible for the cart wheel. Flying in tall grass and belly flopping can keep the plane intact. Most of the Sterling beginner kits had very poor flying characteristics. The examples that I have built and seen of those kits that did fairly well as far as maneuverability were the Zero, Mustang, Spitfire, P-47. The Ringmaster Bipe is capable of insides outsides even inverted with some greasing . Allow a lot of arm movement and give it a lot of breathing room to recover. The Thunderjet was a turd, the Shoestring has the flying characteristics of a shoebox. The p-47 minus the gear was actually in my opinion the best flying of the series. It taught me inverted flying.

getback wrote:Crap !! No Eric didn't use them for some stupid reason, was liking them as templates for the flames !! I am pretty sure my elevator doesn't go to the top any more . Maybe I should change my post to DO YOU SEE ANY THING WRONG WITH THIS PLANE, I got to take a look at the landing gear mount also . I had some trouble deciding witch engine mount to use , decisions are NOT my virtue. I still have the doublers will have to take a look at that and see what I can do I am sure it needs them for the balance C.G. Jumping from one plane to another I guess is not a good idea not to mention I haven't read the directions? getback

Hey man.. Looking good there! Don't beat yourself up.. Like you said; "You are doing something".. which is a lot more than I'm doing. I love color-scheme on the bipe (love the painted flames!) and am envious of your stitched-hinges! Very nice!

Omitting those nose-doublers might prove to help balance the model better. As for landing gear.. Like Ken mentioned.. don't use any. OTOH.. if you want to have R.O.G. take-offs, and/or the plane finishes-out tail-heavy.. you can always go with a simple inverted-V m/w gear between the firewall and your reed-engine's back-plate. That arrangement places the gear as far forward as possible.. with the least chance of "cart-wheeling" on landing.

I used this type of gear on my little self-designed bipe. I used to tow streamers and mylar "Happy Birthday" banners with this little model. Talk about fun times! I think it actually helped to slow it down a little.. with even less a tendency to nose-over on landing.



The metal spoke wheels are 2" dia. and came with a 1/2" long axle-tube. I found them at a craft store. They're very lightweight and thin. I made the cone-shaped hubcaps from card-stock.




Old craft stores (if you can find them..) are great places to find wheels for small models.

I picked these wooden wheels up locally a few years ago.. for pennies..



Keep up the good work Eric!