Kyosho Jet Stream GP-10 refurbish

With that colour, you can see that boat from far. The boat looks good and you did a good job. Why did Kyosho put those gears in there? I can't understand. Your boat has a universal joint on the out drive. On my Grey Thunder, that part is a homocinetic joint. People on RCU say that in sharp turn, it comes apart. Some replace the joint and shaft by a cable. What's the diameter of the propeller?

It always amazes me that model boats contain so much air, I tend to fill the air spaces with foam, much less chance of it ever sinking.

I take an old fishing rod with me when model boating. If/when the boat stops out on the water, I cast a small weight over the boat and reel it in, or, be brave and go for a swim !

The lake is always cold, brrrrrr...

My boats are all slow speed electric or sail, but I have a perkasa waiting to be made, trying to find a small petrol strimmer engine with clutch, and a large wood huntsman with a merco 61 marine.
I made a pull start part winding on the cord like a seagull or elco o/b motor which works.

Have been thinking of petrol/electric for some time.

I prefer smaller lighter boats that I can carry to the lake and thru the gates, the lake is 10 mins away and very very deep. An old quarry pit with levels and weed in the shallows. I have no idea where the shelves end !

That boat looks cool and I bet it goes well.

Happy boating !

It a pretty boat for sure , i seen that too about the gear system and thought it was kind of out dated but i don't know much about model boats , But i do know about rewinds i ahe rebuilt hundreds of them beeing in the small engine repair industry for many a years . Looks like you gave it the attention you said it needed

OVERLORD wrote:With that colour, you can see that boat from far. The boat looks good and you did a good job. Why did Kyosho put those gears in there? I can't understand. Your boat has a universal joint on the out drive. On my Grey Thunder, that part is a homocinetic joint. People on RCU say that in sharp turn, it comes apart. Some replace the joint  and shaft by a cable. What's the diameter of the propeller?

I painted the boat the yellow and blue because at the time, I was working for Caterpillar, and my division (Fuel Systems)
were specially making the injectors for the Cat. Racing boat. A race boat with a diesel engine in it.
They used the top yellow for the Caterpillar "yellow" and the blue for the 2nd color Cat. uses on their equipment.
The plant manager (at the time) commissioned a mural to be painted on one of the walls in the plant where the injectors were made.
It was there for years (about the late 1980's) until it got painted over (accidently - sure?) in 2004 by the new plant manager.
The mural was about 50 feet long and showed the boat bouncing over the waves.
It was suppose to be life size. I think it was? And I do remember it took weeks to paint ( I always wondered the cost of painting it?)
Then just white washed it off the wall by the newer plant manger? (what a waste of money!)
End of the reason for the paint job.

Now for the gears.
I did have problem when I first had the boat running. The "plastic" part that holds both the engine and the one end of the prop housing (brass tubing) cracked on me. Probably from the vibrations? They injected the plastic with webbing in it for the stress, but I don't think they (Kyosho) took in account the constant vibration after some long usage?
The front of the mount that holds the tubing cracks and when it cracks the gears have a chance to slip and strip the gears.
With the vibration of the engine and the twisting (left and right turn) of the out drive (even though there is a "U" joint back there)
cracks the front mount.
It did happen on my boat and I did what what some people would call as a boot strap idea.
I caught the problem before it was a big problem later and stripped the gears.
I made out of brass, a strip to go over the front mount and down into the bottom of the plastic webbing.
I drilled holes in the brass strap so that the JB Weld (structural epoxy) would go through the holes for better support.
This modification has held up well after it was completed and I ran the boat for a couple of years this way (until 1997)

See the attached photo below:


That plastic just could not hold up to the vibrations and twisting on the front of the prop shaft.
When I removed the prop shaft from the housing (brass tubing) there was a small groove on the shaft at that end?
The ball bearing was o.k. but there is still something going on there? But my modification has not failed and the gears are o.k.

Now for the prop:
It measured 1.625" (close to 40mm) in length, and the pitch is 3
These were the stock props that came with the boat and years ago.
I purchased additional props which are still in the original package which are two of them.
I always try to get additional (replacement) parts when I purchase things I know that I'll either damage or will need repair down the road.
With the engine, I knew someday it would have to be rebuilt. As for the prop, I figured I would damage the original going over a rock or something in the water?

Coxfledgling wrote:It always amazes me that model boats contain so much air, I tend to fill the air spaces with foam, much less chance of it ever sinking.

I take an old fishing rod with me when model boating. If/when the boat stops out on the water, I cast a small weight over the boat and reel it in, or, be brave and go for a swim !

The lake is always cold, brrrrrr...

My boats are all slow speed electric or sail, but I have a perkasa waiting to be made, trying to find a small petrol strimmer engine with clutch, and a large wood huntsman with a merco 61 marine.
I made a pull start part winding on the cord like a seagull or elco o/b motor which works.

Have been thinking of petrol/electric for some time.

I prefer smaller lighter boats that I can carry to the lake and thru the gates, the lake is 10 mins away and very very deep. An old quarry pit with levels and weed in the shallows. I have no idea where the shelves end !

That boat looks cool and I bet it goes well.

Happy boating !

If you take a good look at the front (bow) of the boat, there is a hook mounted there so that I too can use my fishing line.
With an Eagle Claw Practice Casting Plug tied in the line, I cast it over the boat and snag the hook on the bow and reel it back home.

Ken Cook wrote:               I was always a fan of Kyosho products. They were well engineered and well executed. I recall this model. While boats never appealed to me due to not having a area close by to use one, I always enjoyed looking at them. My father having a bass boat had a small electric he would run from his boat. I remember the Aristo -Craft charger he used. He would charge the packs from the trolling motor batteries.

             I was flying my FP .10 and I was seeing how low I could fly. I caught the ground and flipped over. This was in New Jersey where even though grass was present, the soil condition is sandy. I put the plane in the car and waited until I got home to wash everything out. I removed the backplate, cylinder head and removed the liner. I had the piston/rod assembly out and when I was looking at it in my hand, the wrist pin slid out and the rod fell out. At this point in time, I wasn't certain to which way it was orientated due to the piston having  a hole in the lower portion of the skirt. Having a 50/50 chance of putting it back together, I reassembled it incorrectly. I will say it didn't like to run that way.

I had the same problem on my O.S. 10-FP engine ( for my plane).
It did the same to me, and like you, I also figured I had a 50/50 chance and was wrong.
That was a learning experience for me, so when it was time to take apart the boat motor, I marked everything with a Dremel tool with a small dot for facing the front of the engine (carb.) and took it all apart so that everything went back together the correct way.