Just more radial arm saw and P-26 stuff

Very observant Fred and a question I thought would be asked considering the mobility of the thing.

No it doesn't, but it will have. I am going to rob these off this table that is never moved. I built this one too using a computer table top that the previous owner of this house left behind. Check out the thickness.




Yes, the manual (lawyered-up) lists the risks of kick-back. They recommend feeding in from the reverse side. Perhaps the only times that I am really safety conscious is when working around power saws of any kind. Dad lost part of a finger using one. After 84 years I still have all of mine, but I'm whistling past the graveyard.

fredvon4 wrote:Could not see zooming in but hope you have the locking castors.

Also want you to know if you have not ever ripped long stock, a RAS is notorious for kick back and launching fed correctly with the safety toothed Pawls riding the top of the board.
Now if you need a hole in your garage, feed the board to rip, with the blade, instead of against.... impressive how much damage it will do

Good points Phred. I'm also concerned with having this saw on a mount with casters. Maybe consider some latch-type locks that interface between the mount.. and possibly several different anchor-points in your shop. Workbench.. wall.. or anywhere else that the saw/mounting can be stabilized.

It's definitely worth the effort Robert.

Your concerns have not escaped me.  All thought out before the build.  

This is a mobile saw; it throws sawdust like there would be no tomorrow.  It will reside in the attached garage, smooth floor and an easy ride out to the driveway where it can throw all the sawdust it wants.  

I used it while on the other roll-around bench with no lock wheels and it did fine.  But it threw sawdust everywhere in the garage prompting me to use the leaf blower to get rid of it.  

The stand is not tippy, I tried get it to tip and it wouldn't within reason.  But I imagine ripping a 16' 2X8 might present a problem.  Not anticipating a lot of those.  

I trust it more than the spindly stand that came with it when new.  



I need the features that this saw offers as I want to make an 0.10 version of my tether planes.  Cutting the wood for that would be easier than using my DeWalt miter chop saw.  



I'm still nuts about the things (thanks Rene) and think a complete Cox set would be neat.

About finished up on the boxed P-26, only one corner on the bottom box needs repair. Backed up the glued rips on the top box with masking tape ironed on.

Fold-ups hold the wing and the tail, little red box holds all the accessories. Empty cardboard fold-out probably was for the battery.

Fixed the miter and pivot functions.  Frozen lock pins needed some disassembly and TLC.  100% operational now.  Crosscut, Rip, Bevel, this thing will cook your eggs for you in the morning.  




There is another one at the same auction as a lot with a horse collar and jig saw.  Present bid is $1,50.  Told Mark to go to thirteen $.  





P-26 is in the box.  Still need to add decals.









You remember that - "Think this is my last plastic plane" forget it, I did.

On it's way. Pictured on the box bottom above. Carrier hooked.





Lot of stuff just to get that vintage Cox handle. Had one years ago, wore it out and threw it away.