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Post  RknRusty Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:06 pm

A very important way to prevent the crank from breaking is to have a prop bolt that runs all the way into the hole. A good hard black oxide hex head, or either the stud that comes with a spinner nut are the best.

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Post  RknRusty Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:11 pm

crankbndr wrote:In my opinion if you stay with 25% nitro you will never bust a crank, you will wear out the crankcase pretty fast running over 19K...
I agree. And I will reiterate, a well balanced prop is the best thing you can do to extend the life of the crankcase bearing surfaces.

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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:19 pm

This will probably answer most if not all your questions.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t753-the-revised-2011-gibeault-mouse-race-program
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Post  looperdude Tue Aug 06, 2013 7:13 am

ive read that whole article atleast 5 times
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:01 pm

Ok, just trying to help.
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Post  RknRusty Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:13 pm

Most of the answers I give you will be what I learned from Paul's article.

Anything I tell you that's different is probably because I forgot something from it.lol! 

At the time, I didn't polish my crank as well as Paul because I didn't know how he did it. I used 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and worked the bearing surfaces by hand. Then I read in other posts about chucking the splined end of the crank in a drill press and pinching the paper around the crank. That does a much better job. Just don't get carried away and overdo it. I've done it that way ever since. Do NOT use any abrasives on the bearing surfaces in the crankcase. That will ruin it.
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Post  looperdude Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:38 pm

oh no i didnt mean it like that, i still refer back to it from time to time, thanks for the link though
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Post  looperdude Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:49 pm

yeah i would like to know what he polishes his cranks with to make the pin rock to the bottom of the crankcase, that thing has got to be super slick.
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Post  RknRusty Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:55 pm

looperdude wrote:yeah i would like to know what he polishes his cranks with to make the pin rock to the bottom of the crankcase, that thing has got to be super slick.
I think he starts with oiled 800 and finishes with 1000. But to be sure, click his profile and then click all of his posts. Or PM him. I'm guessing next time Paul logs in he'll see this and post. I've name-dropped his name enough to get his attention.Laughing

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:57 pm

I use the drill as well, start at say 1000 them go way down to 2000 to 2500. You can find those grades of paper at Autozone type stores as it's what's commonly used in the auto paint industry.

Ron

Edit: just saw Rusty's post, not trying to contradict Rusty it's just what I do. Rusty can build some fast engines.

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Post  RknRusty Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:04 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:I use the drill as well, start at say 1000 them go way down to 2000 to 2500. You can find those grades of paper at Autozone type stores as it's what's commonly used in the auto paint industry.

Ron

Edit: just saw Rusty's post,  not trying to contradict Rusty it's just what I do. Rusty can build some fast engines.

Wow, I bet that really makes it glassy. I didn't know you could get paper that fine... I believe you were the Tach Race champ this year, Mister Cribbs.Rebuilding a Black Widow, mouse racer style. - Page 4 Cool

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:35 pm

Uh oh,

Did I just let the cat out of the bag? Just gave away my secret weapon! lol! 

Yeah I think 2500 is as fine as you can go. It feels as smooth as a sheet of writing paper.
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Post  looperdude Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:48 pm

i usually use wore out 400 wetdry on my cranks, with a little oil
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