great finds at the antique store

the wheels were $2, the fuel can $12, ok cub co2 engine was $24 desert defender was $15

the person running one of the antique stores even has a Olson & Rice 60 spark ignition all complete with it's on 2''x8'' test stand that comes with the engine



he wants $250 for this engine

Mitch,

I also have an OK CO2 engine, but mine has the green cartridge holder. They are a lot of fun to run, especially to us 1/2A guys. They're simple but so intriguing.

I would caution you on one thing. When you get the cartridges (make sure you have the correct size--probably 8 gram), oil your engine every two or three runs. This is the only real maintenance required. I use Singer sewing machine oil, but you can also use the options listed in this post: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8360341&postcount=20.

When you tighten the cartridge down, make sure that the piston is a bottom dead center so you don't risk freezing the piston

Good luck and have some fun with it. Do you plan on putting it on an airplane?

All the best,
KP

i may put it in a airplane, ill have to get some co2 cartriges and some singer oil, looks fun. My dads still scarred of it just like he is with the glow engines ill take your advise on the piston being at bdc when i put the co2 cartige in

welcome to the forum KP nice plane in your profile pic, looks fast as $%##

Those are some great prices! I have always wanted a CO2 engine but have yet to find one at a good price. I love going through antique stores, thrift shops and other junk shops. For some reason, not sure why, I like old stuff!

i like seeing old toys that would not be produced and sold to children like me in our time

The only thing that you MIGHT be afraid of is that the prop will hit your finger. I've started mine with a screwdriver and, on the first good pop, it caught up to the screwdriver and put a good knick in the prop. Flick it fast!

Thank you for the welcome! I've been on RCG for a while now and also have an RCU account, but this forum fits my interests so much better. I even think this forum dried up RCG's 1/2A section. After coming back after a break, I wondered where everyone had gone. This forum has a great group of guys and I can't wait to get my 1/2A build log up for my Lanier Indicator!

Thanks again,
KP

yeah, i like this forum a little more than RCU, it fits my interests better

And the speed plane in my avatar is an auction site find of mine. It's a Dizzy Bee (that was clearly shrunk) with a fairly rare Cox Olympic .15. A bicycle spoke in the top of the "pylon" screws down onto a threaded rod that wraps around the rear induction carb body.

As for speed, I was told that a very similar plane (a bit larger, actually) got to 119mph! Wow!

KP

have you seen the speed cl planes that have a half wing?

I have. In fact, I saw a speed plane this morning somewhere on the forums with one wing, a single-bladed prop, and a single stab lifted at the v-tail angle. This type of stab I haven't seen before.

I'd be grateful if someone could describe the benefits and functionality of the single-bladed prop and counter-weight.

KP

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buMlFzMhcKc
that might help, check this plane out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vAw1CC4A3g
this is the type of plane that i mentioned, jeez it looks mean

A single bladed prop is more efficient than a two blade prop at high rpm's. When a two bladed prop is rotating the first blade grabs (clean) air so to speak. The second blade isn't getting as good of a bite due to the prop wash and turbulence that the first blade had created. When checking 2 bladed props on a pitch gauge, it's not always a bad thing when both blades are slightly off. The same theory applies here. It gives both blades the opportunity to grab clean air. There is less rotating mass using a single bladed prop as well. Speed guys use small diameter high pitch props to obtain speed. I believe the counterweight is somewhat self explanatory. You can't have one blade running with nothing opposing the other side. The weight weighs the same as the one single blade balancing the load as if it was a two bladed prop.

A one bladed prop will unload quicker and get the rpm's faster into the powerband. This is especially necessary when using a tuned pipe. The engine pictured in my avatar was designed for 1/2A racing and the parts have been stressed to run at rpm's above 40k according to the designer on a one bladed prop using 80% nitro, 10% propylene oxide, and 10% oil. Ken

Mitch,

Thanks for the video. That explained a lot.


Ken,

Thank you for the detailed explanation. That makes so much sense; I guess I never took the right angle on their functionality.

80% nitro?!! I had no idea that the Shuriken ran on such a high percentage. From my simple sport-engine mind, how does the engine dissipate so much heat?

Thanks again,
KP

no problem, the video helped me 2
glad to help

mitchg95 wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vAw1CC4A3g
this is the type of plane that i mentioned, jeez it looks mean

Love the noise when it goes on the pipe.

I can tell you, don't even bother flying the defender, it's a brick.

dont worry i wont fly the Defender, i want to keep it in its current condition