Re: Super Clown build thread (Maiden Report)

[OVERLORD]

I would like to make a suggestion here. This would be in regards to the space directly in between the two center ribs. It may be 1/2" or 3/8". Somewhat difficult to tell from the picture. This type of construction is similar to the Shoestring and other planes. When wings are built like this on profiles, I feel this practice leads to the dreaded vibration problems that some experience with the engine run. At this stage, I would choose some lightweight balsa and make a rib with the grain running vertically.This can be done by gluing 2-3 pieces together and slipping it in between and into that center bay. Draw around the rib using the kit rib as a template. Remove and cut to the line and sand. Install and glue and that rib will insure a very strong foundation for the sheeting which in turn has the fuse glued to it. Ken

Talking about the grain running vertically, an intermediate piece made out of "balsa plywood" would give additional strength indeed. On the Jr Satan, I constructed the block that is glued between both engine bearers out of 4 sheets of 3mm balsa glued cross wise to end up with a sort of 4 ply. It was then wedged into this 12mm opening between the centre ribs. It does not cover the whole rib area though. It ends at about 1/3 in way of the bell crank mount. Then again, the 4 centre ribs are thicker then the other ones.

Lieven

[Cribbs74]

Wing is now sheeted,sanded and flaps are cut and mocked up. I'm loving the look of this. I still think the .35 is going to be a lot for this thing and I can't wait to fly this bird.

I am going to fly the Ring tomorrow with a Nats big dog. Hope I can learn something.

Ron

[jhaye]

Nice looking plane Ron, I flew my Ringmaster today, I think the trimming is finally where I want it and it is flying wonderful. I flew a S-2 F-51 Mustang today that a senior member of the club had. He ended up giving it to me. Man, what a nice plane, has a .29 fox on it and it is quite easy to loop. 35 year old plane and still flying strong. Have fun with the Ringmaster tomorrow.


Jim Hayes

[Cribbs74]

Covered the wing this evening. The corner lifted when I was shrinking. Sucks as now I have to match the pattern for the patch.

I know I said I was doing black and lime, but I saw this and it caught my attention. I hope it turns out ok.

Ron

[RknRusty]

What are your plans for gluing the wing in place? I've never covered one before I permanently installed it.

My guess:

• Fit the wing in the fuse and mark where to cut the covering off to receive wood glue.
  
• Remove the wing and cut off the strip of covering.
  
• Pre-glue the fuse and wing and let it dry, then apply wood glue to the center sheeting and slide it in place.
  
• After it sets, make your fillets.

Or am I totally wrong?

[Cribbs74]

Your first assumption is correct. Put the wing in place, mark it and cut away the covering.

[Cribbs74]

Some more covering tonight. I would be moving faster except I have to work sometimes....

Anyway, just a quick mockup pic so you can see where I am going. The fuse will be solid black and the Fox will sport a 2" spinner on the nose.

[Kim]

WOW !!!! Looks like it's moving even while standing still. Great work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[RknRusty]

WOW !!!! Looks like it's moving even while standing still...

That's an oncoming seizure
Just kidding. I do like it. I was thinking of getting some checkered trim when I was building the Refried Bean, but the flames stole my heart.
I really gotta get than thing fixed.

[Cribbs74]

WOW !!!! Looks like it's moving even while standing still...

That's an oncoming seizure
Just kidding. I do like it. I was thinking of getting some checkered trim when I was building the Refried Bean, but the flames stole my heart.
I really gotta get than thing fixed.

Yeah it is different. Not sure if I like it. That checkered ultracote costs $25 a roll so I probably will finish it out and hope it turns out OK.

Ron

[Cribbs74]

Mounted up a 1980 Fox .35 from Ken Cook. Trying to keep the weight down to 25oz. We shall see.

Sorry for all the .35 sized stuff guys. I will probably build something for a .15 here soon. I am all ears if someone has a conquest .40.......

Ron

[RknRusty]

Nice lines. That spinner fits in perfectly.

[Mark Boesen]

Looks pretty cool! nice job!

[Cribbs74]

Thanks Rusty,

It's tough to grind,file,drill with limited tools in a hotel room.

I used a dremel burr to drill the holes. It kinda burns it way through and kicked up a huge plume of smoke. I panicked and ran over to the windows and threw them up before the smoke alarm went off.

[Cribbs74]

Looks pretty cool! nice job!

Thanks Mark, I really like the look of the Super Clown too bad it's named "Super Clown"

Doesn't really seem fitting.

[OVERLORD]

The checkered pattern looks really sporty. What colour will the fuse be?

Lieven

[Cribbs74]

The checkered pattern looks really sporty. What colour will the fuse be?

Lieven

Thanks Lieven, it will be black with a silver canopy.

Ron

[Cribbs74]

It's coming together. Still need to paint the stab and then hook up the control system. I sure hope this nose heavy condition gets better.

[Ken Cook]

Ron, the nose heaviness isn't going to repair itself. Lightweight foam wheels, a tongue muffler if needed and lose the spinner. A wooden prop may also assist the condition. The spinners are cool, but after the first backfire and the prop comes loose, your going to get a bit steamed under the collar. The 4 way wrench will be put to good use though. If you do decide to use a woodie prop, just keep in mind it's wood and will need to be tightened daily. If you even need to add 3/4oz of tail weight, this isn't all that bad. I've suggested this before, take the 1/4 oz. weights and smash them paper thin with a hammer. You can then use a hinge slotter and cut a slot at the underbelly of the fuse and glue them in with epoxy. This looks extremely professional and they won't fly off the model.

The Fox .35 is quite light, a LA .25 or FP would be over an ounce heavier up front. One thing to bear in mind, you could always cut the nose back 1/2" or slightly more and reshape the fuse to push the engine back closer to the leading edge. This would assist and forego using as much tailweight as your currently using. It all comes down to experimenting. I'm not sure what type of ply doublers were provided in the kit, but I've used 1/16" quite successfully and that in itself is a large weight reduction. Ken

[Cribbs74]

Thanks Ken,

I'll finish it out and see where things sit. I would surely hate to cut down the nose at this stage. I had already thought about the spinner being a hassle and if it is I will toss it aside. It weighs next to nothing though.

I may have to add 3/4oz or even more at this point, but we shall see.

Ron

[RknRusty]

...I may have to add 3/4oz or even more at this point, but we shall see.

Ron

As much as it pains us to add weight, it takes surprisingly little to bring the tail down. Planes that need nose weight are the ones I hate because it takes so much to make a difference up there closer to the CG. About how much does she weigh right now?

[Mark Boesen]

looks great Ron!

p.s. where'd you get that yellow handle? Looks like it could be from a Avion Mustang?

[Cribbs74]

looks great Ron!

p.s. where'd you get that yellow handle? Looks like it could be from a Avion Mustang?

Thanks Mark,

I have every color of the rainbow. I get them here and there in private deals. If you want it let me know.

[Ken Cook]

On another subject, I would just pick the plane up by the finger tips approx 1/3 of the wing chord. It should for the most part nose down at that point. If it's nose high then you have another issue. Far too many times, I've found the CG to be questionable to unworthy. A nose heavy plane will fly just fine. Problems arise when the power quits as it can rapidly fall out of the sky. If control is an issue, then work from there either speeding up the controls or adding tail weight. One thing I do is glue in a hardwood block of maple 1/2"x3/8" which is grooved and drilled for the tail wheel block. It's epoxied into the 1/2" fuse and sanded flush. I install the tail wheel and wrap that block and wire with 3/4oz fiberglass. This does indeed add tail weight, but at the same token, it's needed for durability.

I can also suggest a plastic clunk tank . This can save a bit of weight and that nose looks plenty long enough. A Sullivan RS-4 doesn't fit on a Ringmaster without heating the tank and distorting it. It looks like it would fit just fine on the nose of the Clown. Plastic tanks if set up properly can give amazing runs. I have some tips and suggestions if interested. Ken

[Cribbs74]

Good ideas, for the Ring I just shaped a piece of 1/8 ply and epoxied it in. I had a screw in tail wheel mount though.

Thanks!

Ron

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