Re: Super Clown build thread (Maiden Report)

[Cribbs74]

Forgot to mention I bought the 3.5oz version of the one you sent me off the Brodak site.

Ron

[Cribbs74]

Couple more things done. I coated it with TopFlite clear to fuel proof the Rustoleum and attachd the stab and gear. I certainly like the looks of this thing. I hope it flies well. Hey! Guess who forgot to add the tip weight again

I should have it finished within a week and I can move on to the Shoestring

Ron

[RknRusty]

It looks awesome! Good work.

[Mark Boesen]

It looks like it was designed around the Fox decal, very nice!

[Ken Cook]

Ron, I have a question in regards to the top coat. I assume this is Lusterkote your using. I never have done a Rustoleum finish. I just never had enough success using enamel based paints to continue using them. However my friend Larry does them all the time and they surprisingly look quite nice. Larry uses Minwax water based poly for a base. I don't care for that particular product either. I use the Nelson water based poly with great results. My question is, when the top coat is applied, do you scuff the underlying Rustoleum first? I find that the top coat unless the bottom was scarified some way would have a tendency to sheet off. I thought you may just use a scuff pad.

My other concern is the compatibility between the two. I ask this due to using the Lusterkote once. It smelled like lacquer. I always have used enamel base over lacquer just not the other way around due to the solvents in the lacquer attacking the enamel. I have although not recommended shot lacquer over incompatible bases, it just has to be done with a dry mist building up to a wet coat. Are you letting the enamel dry for a period of time prior to spraying the clear? I'm tired of painting actually, I used to enjoy it very much and I have a great deal of experience in spraying all types of paints. My experience was initially gained from auto painting and while I enjoy seeing pretty planes, I'd rather be building and moving onto the next project.

My dope supply is nearing an end and due to the cost, I don't see myself purchasing anymore. Sig clear is $25 a quart and so is the thinner. I can easily use an entire quart of thinner plus on just one model. Your looking at $50 no hazmat or shipping in that price. For sport use, I'm seeking alternatives. Nelson hobby paints are now once again available, I just was looking into the Rustoleum approach. Ken

[Cribbs74]

Ken,

I must be incredibly lucky as I have had zero compatability problems with Rustoleum and Lustrekote.

Humidity is an issue though, I always wait a day or two bedore spraying the LustreKote just to be sure. I wonder if it would be worthwhile just to use the TopFlite products altogether as the TopFlite stuff is only a few $ more than Rustoleum anyway. You do have more color choices with Rustoleum though.

No I don't scuff the underlying coat although I do sand between coats, just not before the clear as I am always fearful of sanding too much off and exposing the wood.

[RknRusty]

After the Rustoleum cures, just prior to spraying on the Lustrecote, I wipe(not rub) it with a lint free rag damp with denatured alcohol. That will de-glaze it slightly but won't affect the glassy final look. The Lustre has to go on very lightly. In my experience the darker colors, especially red and black will orange peel if you put it on too thick. I've never had blue or white craze. Wait a half hour to an hour between coats, and by the third or fourth you can lay the final coat on thick enough to look like glass without destroying the color coat. If you ever try to remove a spot, you'll find it lays on like glued-on plastic wrap and you have to score the perimeter of the repair area with a razor to pull off a patch. Before painting I still use a base coat of thinned epoxy on the engine beam and on the wing roots between the fuse and the covering for fuel proofing.

For water-slide decals, mask them and give a quick VERY light spray, or they will craze badly. Build it up with a couple of coats, and they are then impervious to cleaning fluids and bumps and scrapes. Also if you use stick on numbers and lettering, mask them and a couple of good shots will keep them stuck down for life. There will be a shiny perimeter around them, but as much as a perfectionist as I am, it's acceptable to me. Overspray comes off of plastic covering with acetone, but it takes several fresh turns of the rag to get it all, or it will leave a haze.

[andrew]

My dope supply is nearing an end and due to the cost, I don't see myself purchasing anymore. Sig clear is $25 a quart and so is the thinner. I can easily use an entire quart of thinner plus on just one model. Your looking at $50 no hazmat or shipping in that price. For sport use, I'm seeking alternatives. Nelson hobby paints are now once again available, I just was looking into the Rustoleum approach. Ken

Ken --
Take a look at Aircraft Spruce -- I use them and Wick's Aircraft Supply for many components. Both cater to the homebuilt crowd. If you buy your dope in quarts, there is no hazmat charge. Brodak uses Randolph for his dope supplier, although his may be a slightly different composition. I can't see any difference in Randolph dope from Aircraft Spruce.

Butyrate clear tautening is $15.60/qt. and thinner is $11.90/qt. You can get nitrate and butyrate in both tautening and non-tautening clear. I've also found that a quality lacquer thinner from auto suppliers will work as a reducer for butyrate. Cheap lacquer thinner from Lowe's works for both butyrate and nitrate cleanup.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/randolphcoatings.html

[andrew]

Ron -
That color scheme with the checkerboards looks great. It's got to be fast just looking at it.

[Cribbs74]

Ok finished entirely, I want to fly this thing bad! Problem is it's too big for my back yard.

[Cribbs74]

Success!!!!

I finally was able to Maiden the Super Clown this morning. Met up at the MADS field at 0600 so I could beat the wind. Let me just say everything went well today. I was able to get a nice 4-2 going, winds were low and best of all it flew like a dream. With the flaps installed it turns on a dime! Loving it! I was able to squeeze in 3 flights before the wind picked up.

So, the downside is my Cameraman buddy was unfamiliar with my phone so I don't have any video. I will post a dirty plane pic here soon for now. Hopefully some video next flight

Ron

[RknRusty]

Haha, your avatar looks like, Go ahead, come and get me, you @#%&!, I dare ya!

That won't make a bit of sense when you change your avie. But I'm glad your maiden flights went well.

[jhaye]

glad it went well Ron. Mornings are definitely better for flying around here. See ya tomorrow am.

Jim

[Cribbs74]

That's what I am doing Rusty! How did you guess? If you look real close you can see the Hot Rock in my hand lol.

Jim, leaving at 0500hrs. Hope to have some good fun!

Ron



Some small video snippets to follow.

[Kim]

Excellent Airplane. Ring that Puppy out this weekend !!!

[Cribbs74]

That's the plan Kim,

Nothing like a good running Fox pulling hard on the lines. Except maybe a TD on song........ 

[JPvelo]

Ron,
Did you end up adding tail weight to the clown? What thickness ply did you for doublers with the fox?

Thanks,
Jim

[Cribbs74]

Good question.

Here's the thing, I built a CLC version which is a faithful replica of the PDQ. So.... My nose is longer than yours. I used the kit doublers whick I believe are 1/8" and as such I had to add 3/4oz tail weight.

If I were to do it again I would probably use 1/16 ply for doublers and perhaps trim the nose.

The Brodak version may not build the same, but I would still use less wood on the doubler. Brodak may have already done that for you.

Ron

[JPvelo]

Thanks Ron,

The brodak doublers are 1/16. I've heard so much about the "Fox Shake" I wasn't sure 1/16 would be stout enough.
I will be starting my clown in the next few weeks so I may hit you up with a few more questions.

Thanks,
Jim

[Cribbs74]

What engine are you going with?

[JPvelo]

What engine are you going with?

I have a NIB 40th Anniversary Fox .35 stunt I was planing on using.

[Cribbs74]

Ok,

That's why I was asking. Just be sure to mount the Fox good and secure. Use steel mount plates and offset wedges if at all possible. Something else I wish I had done is build a cheek block that flows into the spinner. For aesthetic reasons and for added rigidity.

If you choose to use a Spinner be aware it will have to come off and on if you use a wood prop. Most commercial spinners don't leave a whole lot of shaft for the prop nut so you may have to modify the spinner.

MA 9.5x6, APC 10x5 or 10x6 is the props I would experiment with. Your elevation may dictate otherwise.

Ron

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