i sense a resistance in the clip...

Are you using only one D cell? Try 2 D cells in parallel, sounds like you need more amps. With a little force, you can pull the contacts out of the end of the plastic. I had to replace the wires once before on one of those clips, it was brand new and it just happened to fly into the prop right when the engine started.

If you are using a battery box, solder the contacts to the battery box. Another thing you can try is to use a file and clean up the end of the clip to remove any corrosion. You can bend the top and bottom contacts apart a bit to create some spring like pressure when you put it on the head. If you still think its the wires, use a multimeter and check the resistance (in fact this is something you should try first).

Great!
Thanks Guys!
I'll try it out.
Some guy told me that they actually used resistance wire to protect the glow plug from the
big dry cell batteries.
I'll post again if it works

@ jacob
uh, I cant pull the fins out without breaking them.
they are held in place by a little notch that is bent out so it can only be inserted but not pulled out again.

my cox clip broke so in my earlier youtube videos i used this clip and now i just use crocodile clips.

oooh just realised this is my 100th post

GermanBeez wrote:@ jacob
uh, I cant pull the fins out without breaking them.
they are held in place by a little notch that is bent out so it can only be inserted but not pulled out again.

Huh, I was able to pull them out with a pliers, they didn't break but they were not that easy to get out. You could try to push them out with a flat head screwdriver while pulling on them with a pliers (not sure how you would hold that, maybe lightly held in a vice). If you cant get them out and you must replace the wires, you could use a dremel tool and cut along the edge of the plastic and then work them out that way. You can use a epoxy or use a CA (cyanoacrylate, super glue) glue to glue the plastic casing back together. Did you check the resistance of the wires to see if it is the wires that are causing the problem. The problems I mostly have with them is the contact between the head and the clip contacts and or the contact between the wires and the battery box. I am currently using a clip with its original wires and I don't seem to have any issue. I just checked the wires with a multimeter and I get a reading of 0 so mine doesn't appear to have any resistance. Test the connection of the clip on the head with a multimeter.

Hope you get it working

Congrats about your 100th post, keep going, there are more ranks! It doesn't just stop at gold member.

really whats the next? Diamond

nitroairplane wrote:really whats the next? Diamond

Platinum


Had to tape up a star

i like that but really is there another rank?

I'm partial to the Sullivan style clip, but it is somewhat limited in engines smaller than 049.

Matt

You see that no use for me as I run .010's a LOT but I don't find the cox one very good either because it is still a little large I find the crodile clips to be fine but they make adjusting the needle valve harder as they don't leave much space.

I have toyed with the idea of making terminals that would screw onto the Sullivan style clip that would allow easy starting for 010/020. The only problem is the demand for those engines.

Matt

nitroairplane wrote: i like that but really is there another rank?

Yeah, just to keep it going. It'll stop somewhere.

@Jacob OK and Matt it is true I suppose that I te main problem for getting parts and accessories for cox engines but I'm still convinced a killer crank for the .010 would sell. But I suppose you need to sell like 1000 to male it worth while well thats what Beenie told me.

alright, i managed to get the fins out by sticking a needle in there and bending the notches back up.
Then i installed new cables and- hey presto! Works great. I just did a test run with my babe bee using the starter, and
after i cleaned it up, i finally found the cylinder number on the side of the engine. because there is a 1 etched onto the side, i am guessing
this is a thin wall no1 cylinder. can anybody estimate its production year by the cylinder marking? i think it has to be an early model...

I am not sure what the break even would be on that part. It would be have to be 1000 pieces as an absolute minimum order though. Otherwise the cost/unit would be too high.

I'll have another look at the clips though as that is something I could probably do myself.

Matt

Late 50's early 60's maybe but that is if the cylinder is original but that is just from what I have heard about cylinder numbers.

the cylinder must be, because i cant see any marks in the black anodization from the wrench.
you want to move to live chat?

GermanBeez wrote:the cylinder must be, because i cant see any marks in the black anodization from the wrench.
you want to move to live chat?

Numbers and cylinder wall thickness>

http://sites.google.com/site/coxenginecollection/thinner-cylinder

http://sites.google.com/site/coxenginecollection/choosing-a-cylinder

wow, thats really confusing...it is definitly a cylinder like the one in the picture on the right, but it also has double bypasses...
could it be a super bee product engine???
i heard they made this specific engine for one or two models with thin cylinders and double bypasses....

w00t!!
300th post in teh forum!!! lol

GermanBeez wrote:wow, thats really confusing...it is definitly a cylinder like the one in the picture on the right, but it also has double bypasses...
could it be a super bee product engine???
i heard they made this specific engine for one or two models with thin cylinders and double bypasses....

Did you say it was a #1 cylinder? What did you take the cylinder off? Usually if it is a #1, it was off a Black Widow or a #290 product engine.

what is a 290 product engine??? a super bee?
i've uploaded some picks into the vintage engines gallery, including some minor scratch marks on the cylinder.
maybe you could have a look at it.

here's a picture of the 290 off of Martin Hepperle's site



It could be a Super Bee or it could be a Babe Bee with a early Black Widow cylinder on it. The for sure real Super Bee engines I have seen before had a "P-40" stamped on the side of the cylinder. I have also seen many engines with a un-anodized 8cc stunt tank being called a Super bee before, but I know those are NOT super bee engines.

You may have a later, close to end of production Super Bee since the P-40 cylinder seems to match the #1 cylinder. I know the Super Bee was made from 1959 to early 1961 but I have read that there was a 1974-75 version of the Super Bee for the P-40 Warhawk model that was available at that time. The engine you have had to be made in the early 60s since it has all the early parts.