Carl Goldberg Stuntman

If you can get your Stuntman to be this ugly, it will be the funnest slab wing trainer ever.

Green Death


After the fuse breaks so many times behind the wing, this is the way to make it even more fun to fly. It was amazing after I shortened it. I ended up flying the chopper with a Tee Dee and bladder.

I remember a fellow flyer from my youth that had a Stuntman and as a kid I was impressed how it flew !! So I suppose the reason to build one stems from those memories .

Your build is looking really good.

Glad to see a fellow South African on the site.

I saw your Wizard. Glad you and your son had a blast with it.

I finished my Lil Satan a while back. Still need to do the maiden flight.

You should know that Rusty is the Lil Satan king!!

Cant wait to see your stuntman finished.

Theo

Got a Good start on it there Duck,  My stuntman that fly's has a 049 medallion on it and man it cranks out the circle its a wonder the glue is still holden scene its 40yrs old or so , the other needs a rebuild the old front came off l mast time out/down  Eric's connection has to be reset    

Talking about motors ?? I was wondering what to power it with ? I have the babybee we used on Lukes Lil Wizard , Golden Bee , RC Bee and a TD .
Eventually the TD would be the motor to use , but I need to get back into it a bit first
So was wondering if I should try the RC Bee without it's muffler ? Problem is it's 10mm longer than the Golden Bee ? Should I shorten the nose ? I must also check the TD length with it's red mount /tank ?

The Golden Bee will work. The RC Bee tank is not plumbed correctly for CL use.

Elaborate for me ? It's got the weight on the end of the pick up ?

Yes it does have a clunk, however the tank shape is not ideal to allow it to stay at the outside corner. You may be fine when the tank is Full, but may give issues around 1/2 tank. If stunting the tank shape is all wrong.

The Bee type engines are what Goldberg 1/2A kits were designed around so it would be my first choice. Even they are not ideal for a good stunt run, but will work for level laps and loops etc.

Not sure what your background is so if you know all this I apologize.

Ron

No Ron not at all , didn't know thanks for the info

Definitely don't shorten the nose. If the engine moves the CG forward, try flying it that way first. If it's too sluggish, a little tail weight is okay. Before repairing mine so many times and making it too heavy, a Black Widow with the 8cc stunt tank worked pretty well. But you'll tire quickly of having to do your stunts early, before the fuel gets low especially if you want to fly inverted, and also the flights are short. Once you get tuned up, any souped up Bee with an external tank, or a Medallion are excellent engines for it.
Rusty

Here is a pic of the three motors TD is the longest



When you say external tank ? Do you mean on the back of the motor or a completely separate tank ? ( as in if I beam mounted the TD ? )

Duck , scroll back up i just got my pics in that is an external tank i have not flew it enough to tell how good it works in stunts , But it is FAST! Getback

Yes I noticed the tank under the wing ! looks quite big ?
Also noticed the motor offset on the nose that has broken off ? Am I seeing it correctly ?

yes it has offset about 10 degrees , they are 2 differ. planes the medallion is tricky to get primed as the tank is lowwer than the engine i would not recommend seting yours up like that to get started .... But i noticed ur tank is mounted to your TD ???(i don't know if they call that external or not i would guess so as long as it does not have to be attached to make the engine run ) If it were me i would start with that golden bee with 1 or 2 small washers under the left side engine mounts (as setting in the plane) to give you some offset and some wing tip weight for sure (i use a quarter ) 4-6 grams at the outside wing tip. Hope that helps some . Getback

Great help Thanks

Of the three engines shown the TD is the lightest overall. The tank that the TD is attached to is not well suited to CL due to the pickup location.

I think your best course of action with what you have is the Golden Bee. Once you get your feet wet then the TD can be swapped in.

Keep in mind the TD as is does not draw fuel well from a hard tank. Most of us use them on pressure systems. The medallion however, does draw fuel well from a hard tank and is a good sport engine for that purpose.

Ron

Now the TD /Medallion bit is interesting !! Apart from the front inlet housing how else do they differ ?

Oh another thing my Golden Bee seems to leak fuel from the filler/breather pipes in the tank ?? Anyway of fixing that ?

duck.co.za wrote:Here is a pic of the three motors TD is the longest

When you say external tank ? Do you mean on the back of the motor or a completely separate tank ? ( as in if I beam mounted the TD ? )

When I mentioned an external tank I was thinking of a 3/4oz wedge tank. It didn't occur to me you were talking about the addon radial mount tank. I'd forgotten about those. To me, that big long assembly is begging to be snapped off on your first nose first encounter with the ground.

On the stuntman, one of these is my opinion of the strongest mounts for a Tee Dee/Medallion/Norvel/etc.:

Or my favorite, this replaces the backplate:


Just unscrew the engine to swap or service. Here it is on my plane:

Ramble on ..I found the queen of all my dreams .... JUST GET OUT (stupid cap lock) there and have FUN with it !!! Strap that BEE to it and LET R RIP!!!! Just getting started again is the easy thing and getting particular takes some time i K-no i found out i can build stuff faster than i can fly Getback I would fit my pride and joy on later or it may bee more than U want at one time .

Hi Duck, I'd go with the Golden Bee too. The Stuntman was really designed for it.. and it keeps things simple to start with. If your bottom vent tube is leaking fuel.. you could try sealing it from the outside... with a "TINY" bit of epoxy glue using a toothpick.. and wiping any excess glue off immediately with a tissue. Wiping with a tissue afterwards will also help to spread and force the epoxy down into the void where it's leaking.. and will make for a practically invisible repair. The "top" tube could be repaired in the same way.. but any leaks from "it" would only happen when the tank is inverted.

A properly plumbed stunt tank bee will do everything...just not in the same flight as there isn't enough fuel on board....and assuming the plane and pilot are capable.

The pickup should be to the outboard side of the tank at about the 8 o'clock position looking at the engine as it will be installed.  There are shoulders molded into the back plate to capture the tube.  (I hope I got that right.  I always stress over pickup position being on the correct side)  The fill and vent will be towards the inboard side.

These tanks are notorious for leaking from the seams, specifically the back plate- to tank seam, and the back plate to venturi seam.  A little anaerobic sealant (aluminum safe sealant* from the car parts store) in the proper places will resolve these leaks.  Fill the tank groove with sealant.  Clean the inside of the tank and strike the sealant flush to the top of the groove.  Use a small amount on the venturi gasket.  While sealing use some on the crankcase to fuel tank gasket for good measure, and under the screw heads when assembling.  If you really want you can fill the screw holes too, but I have never found this necessary.

If your tank is damaged, or is not a stunt tank with the fill and vent in the tank but part of the back plate then purchase the correct assembly from Bernie coxengines.ca or Matt exmodelengines.com

If the fill and vent are siphoning from slipstream file a slight angle so the forward side is lower than the back side. This will stop the siphon from the slipstream. It takes very little material removal to change the dynamics.

Phil

*aluminum safe sealant will not etch into aluminum and Zamac.  I have seen holes eaten in much thicker aluminum parts from silicone RTV.