Micro 12VDC Generator with a Cox .049 Sure Start Diesel Engine

here in holland when sombody is not home they deliver it to one of the neighbors
and i get a little note were my package is

my neigbours are not always home
that is what it boils down to

robot797 wrote:here in holland when sombody is not home they deliver it to one of the neighbors
and i get a little note were my package is

my neigbours are not always home
that is what it boils down to

This is a good arrangement. In most countries this is not allowed because of privacy. Again, the most important is you got the mail and you can build a second generator.

Davis Diesel crankshaft just received. Local post slow. Not yet opened but hope OK. Happy to receive the crankshaft.

Davis Diesel demonstrated an excellent service. Price OK. Shipping excellent. Not seen the product yet but sure to be excellent as every one says.

Just opened the mail. Looks perfect. I was most afraid whether the crankshaft plate where the pin is attached was the same. Looks the same. This means the suction generated by the Davis Diesel crankshaft would be the same.

The material looks like a strong stainless steel alloy which is OK. As Davis Diesel mentioned, Crome and steel alloy. Must be OK.

So far, I am very happy with the crankshaft. Hope the teeth fit the drive plate. Cannot say for sure because the different colour makes the visual comparison difficult. The teeth and the pin plate as well as the pin are black in the Davis Diesel crankshaft and whitish in the Cox crankshaft.

I hope they made them the same.

As previously mentioned, the only visual difference is the axel narrowing which is available on the Cox crankshaft axel and not on the Davis Diesel one. Also as mentioned, this is not a big deal. Either way is OK.

The Davis Diesel crankshaft is an excellent product and they have an excellent and immediate service.

StevenStanleyBayes wrote:Just opened the mail. Looks perfect. I was most afraid whether the crankshaft plate where the pin is attached was the same. Looks the same. This means the suction generated by the Davis Diesel crankshaft would be the same.

The material looks like a strong stainless steel alloy which is OK. As Davis Diesel mentioned, Crome and steel alloy. Must be OK.

So far, I am very happy with the crankshaft. Hope the teeth fit the drive plate. Cannot say for sure because the different colour makes the visual comparison difficult. The teeth and the pin plate as well as the pin are black in the Davis Diesel crankshaft and whitish in the Cox crankshaft.

I hope they made them the same.

As previously mentioned, the only visual difference is the axel narrowing which is available on the Cox crankshaft axel and not on the Davis Diesel one. Also as mentioned, this is not a big deal. Either way is OK.

The Davis Diesel crankshaft is an excellent product and they have an excellent and immediate service.

Also : Because the Davis Diesel crankshaft is made of Chrome or Chrome Nickel or Vanadium or all these and steel alloy, the axel is incredibly shiny, polished like a mirror,. This will reduce friction slightly.

Robot797 is right. There is no any delimiter to stop the piston from going up. There is only a seat for the Teflon gasket which is a delimiter for the Teflon gasket to go down. Because the Teflon gasket is very thin, very thin Aluminium may do the job of protection but, because Aluminium does not shatter but bends, this can go into the cylinder and scratch or damage unlike the soft Teflon or shattered Teflon pieces.

Sorry. Mistake. Admitted.

The engine has been reassembled with the new Davis Diesel crankshaft which fitted perfectly.

The engine has not yet been attached to the generator chassis.

After the pin of the original crankshaft was broken, the crankshaft was replaced by a Davis Diesel strong crank made of stainless steel alloy, most likely steel and Chrome and or Nickel and Vanadium. The new crankshaft is perfectly the same as the old one. Unable to tell whether the axel teeth are the same because these are black in colour on the new crankshaft and white on the old one and this makes visual evaluation impossible. The axel of the new crankshaft is perfectly glossy and mirror like finished to reduce friction which should compensate for the lack of narrowing which would act as oil retainer too.

Although the drive plate can be press fit by simply installing a propeller and tightening the propeller screw, this is not recommended because of the force needed. The Cox engine assembly tool available from Cox International is great and does the same job yet allowing for a higher tension of the tool’s nut which pushes the propeller which pushes the drive plate whose teeth go in between the teeth of the crankshaft axel. This tool consists of a couple of washers which push the propeller, a fully threaded strut ( rod ) which goes a quarter in into the propeller screw hole of the axel and acts as a propeller screw to install the propeller onto as well as the washers and then install the tool’s nut onto the strut to be tightened either by the general purpose Cox wrenches ( recommended ) or a large standard ( not Philips ) screw driver.

One must be careful with lining up the gasket which is between the opposite ( to the propeller ) side of the crankcase and the plastic backplate which contains the Reed Valve, the mesh, the fuel and air intakes. Best, use 4 needles or straightened paper clip instead of the four screw at the beginning to easily lift the plastic backplate and ensure the pins go through the holes of the gasket. Use Castor oil to “ glue “ the gasket for lower amount of movement. When the gasket is positioned OK, Remove the pins one after another and position the corresponding screws immediately after removing a corresponding pin. Do not tighten them up. Just a quarter turn to be able to stay. Then, because the screws are not yet tightened, one can lift the backplate a millimetre or two to examine whether the screws go through the ears of the gasket. Check this on multiple occasions to be sure. I have done this a lot and has always worked.

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BACKPLATE SCREWS NOR ANYTHING ELSE. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE TOOL’S NUT. NOTHING WITH THIS ENGINE MUST BE OVERTIGHTENED. Will resist vibrations OK even when not overtightened. Just finger tight with low torque precision screwdrivers ( the ones for watchmakers sold in dollar shops ).

I also successfully reset the piston which was the same as when purchased but the factory did not reset the piston well leaving a huge tolerance. This may have been the reason for many problems such as crankshaft pin, Teflon gasket piston touching, etcetera.

I have wrongly mentioned here and there, there has been a delimiter ring to limit the movement of the piston. This is not true. The delimiter only disallows the Teflon gasket to fall into the cylinder but does not disallow the cylinder from going up. I even put the piston through the cylinder upside down, through where the head is to lubricate the cylinder with Castor Oil better and to push the excess Castor oil down.

Oiling the crankshaft axel and the cylinder and the piston with Castor Oil is IMPORTANT! Otherwise the cylinder moves through the piston with a great difficulty and one may be mistaken something is wrong with the tolerances. Nothing is wrong. Just the piston and the cylinder need some oiling.

Resetting the piston was now done very carefully with a very tiny hammer hammering while rotating for a very long while, ten fold or more, each rotation just resetting the piston very slightly, almost impossible to detect. IMPORTANT : THE RESETTING TOOL WAS KEPT AS CLOSE TO THE PISTON CENTRE AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT TOUCHING THE PISTON. Touching the piston even slightly while hammering may deform the piston to become useless which, as someone has said, is known as “ mushrooming “ the piston.

The Teflon gasket was almost flat and twisted slightly yet, I think, I was able to “ determine “ where the “ dome “ of the gasket was which I was not sure whether available at all. I think the dome is where the gasket is smoother ( well finished ) to the touch. This “ dome “ side must be positioned down towards the cylinder and piston and not up towards the counter piston and the head.

Once I realised there was no any delimiter and the piston can go up as high as possible, I found the reason for Teflon gasket burning problems ( which I had known before but was more sure now ) : a non reset piston as well as high compression screw setting, despite the downward pressure and mainly when starting a hot engine, can touch the gasket. Again, the logic is the compression and the combustion do always push the piston down and thus a non reset piston cannot touch yet there is a lot of vibrations and wobbling which may throw the piston up mainly when starting. A non reset piston would also affect the timing yet this can be compensated with the mixture and compression as standard.

The same wobbling and vibration of a non reset piston ( mainly when down ) can affect the crankshaft pin and create a great deal of fatigue.

Thus, I think I may be right to say : always reset the piston, mainly a brand new one which comes from the factory which with one purpose or another does not deliver pre reset pistons and these need resetting by the user.

Cox claims another resetting may be necessary after breaking in and, once this done and with the engine broken in, a necessity for a new reset is not expected but may or may not happen.

Once everything installed, hand turn the engine for a while without the compression screw to push the Castor Oil, used for oiling the cylinder up and down. Also, do use initial Ether priming, say, through the Air Valve intake to initially dissolve the Castor Oil which may remain in the cylinder and create an initial drag.

I have found the hard way heavy Ether priming does help start the engine. This can be preceded by a slight blowing of fuel from the tank into the crankcase while rotating the propeller. This blowing can be done with a mouth through the tank aeration duct or hose in case of any. Avoid flooding. With an initial fuel in the crankcase and heavy Ether priming in the Air Valve, the engine would start more easily and be more settings independent ( insensitive ). Obviously, correct settings are necessary for the engine to sustain the start.

Although some people advise against Air Valve priming and for priming through the exhaust, I advise for because Ether cleans the air intake mainly from Castor Oil and any other contaminants. Avoid flooding, though.

Easy start is also important to prevent the spring from braking and so is avoidance of flooding. I have broken many springs.

Spring breaking, however, is an important protection for the crankshaft and mainly the pin : during spring start, in case of flooding or dragging or any other reason, when the engine does not want to easily rotate, the spring breaks eliminating the push on the crankshaft and pin. Again, to rely on the spring is not the best thing to do, thus, ensure easy rotation and start to spring start by rotating the propeller over one compression or less for a while before going over more than one compression in case needed. Staring with one compression only is a good idea.

The lack of delimiter and the possibility for the piston to go up the cylinder freely up to where the crankshaft and the piston rod and the piston rod assemblies would allow is also a good protection of the cylinder and the piston from hitting a delimiter and breaking although, as mentioned, the compression and the combustion act against this, To rely only on compression and combustion may not be a good idea.

hey i have a update
you probaly wont like it but could you pleas try this for me


take an ordanary soda can
cut a disk out of it the same size as a teflon disk
place it in the engine (with the copper gasket under it)
and the shiny side down

and start it with this fuel mixture
50/30/20 (petrolium-ether-oil) and add 1.5-2% cetane booster after that

i dont have cetane booster but i started mine just now with the aluminium disk
and it started without a fuss easy and quick
it reacted better to the fuel needle and compression screw
and it ran for 4 a 5 minutes on 10 ml fuel
(i run it to rich its dripping oil out of the exhaust)

robot797 wrote:hey i have a update
you probaly wont like it but could you pleas try this for me


take an ordanary soda can
cut a disk out of it the same size as a teflon disk
place it in the engine (with the copper gasket under it)
and the shiny side down

and start it with this fuel mixture
50/30/20 (petrolium-ether-oil) and add 1.5-2% cetane booster after that

i dont have cetane booster but i started mine just now with the aluminium disk
and it started without a fuss easy and quick
it reacted better to the fuel needle and compression screw
and it ran for 4 a 5 minutes on 10 ml fuel
(i run it to rich its dripping oil out of the exhaust)

What does " Petrolium " mean? Gasoline which you put in a car, diesel which you put in a car, raw petrolium which you pump from the ground, Kerosene or something else?

Installed a 25W,50 Ohm rheostat potentiometer which was very big. Had to fully disassemble and reassemble the potentiometer to remove one of the two big nuts, then to install on the generator and then use only one nut on the top.

Need to install some connectors more. The rheostat potentiometer is between the ampermeter and the voltmeter, in series to the load and acts as an electric clutch and transmission allowing to decrease the load and slowly increase preventing a momentary high load to the engine.

It's the same as kerosene
I forgot to translate it correctly

robot797 wrote:It's the same as kerosene
I forgot to translate it correctly

This is a powerful mixture. You will get a good power and will start OK because you use electrical start.

I have to do the opposite because the new crankshaft and newly reset piston have not been broken in. I will only run the engine without the dynamo with 20mL fuel. Then I will use Ether rich mixture to start easily with the dynamo. In the future, I will see.

Please, note : although I have an electric start, I do not have a powerful source such as a car battery. Also, the dynamo which I use may not be powerful enough to rotate the engine even with a powerful source but will be OK toassist a start as well as an initial high load switch.

As far as the Teflon gasket is concerned, I like this and this works even when the gasket is burned and thinned but not shattered. However, I like the idea of Copper gaskets which I may use in the future. For now : only by the book.

my copper was to thin
it just teared
but now with the aluminuim it runs great

robot797 wrote:my copper was to thin
it just teared
but now with the aluminuim it runs great

The problem is we do not know what pressure the engine and the gasket can withstand. The Teflon gasket has been designed to shatter at pressure lower than the pressure at which the engine can be damaged thus protecting the engine. In case you put too thick and strong Aluminium, you do not have a protection. In case you put too thin Aluminium, you do not get power.

To measure the Aluminium is impossible in normal conditions or risky to the engine. This is because the Aluminium gasket is mechanically supported by the counterpiston and only the edges can fold with the rest in tact. Thus, much thinner Aluminium than the maximal compression required Aluminium must be used. How thin is unknown and may be established by testing by people who want to destroy their engines in the name of science and technology.

Again, the beauty of the Teflon gasket is this shatters easily and does not fold. The support of the counterpiston plays some role but not as much allowing for more counterpiston force independent maximal pressure shattering.

Also, because the counterpiston is wide, very unlikely is for the Aluminium to fold the edges unless immensely thin without maintaining the compression.

Thus, after a given thickness, whether you put 5mm gasket ( without counterpiston : the thick gasketocounterpiston would do the job of the two ) or less makes no difference because the engine would break down before the Aluminium folds to release compression.

I am not sure whether the cans are thin enough to deform before the engine breaking point. You may also want to consider a possibility to have Aluminium circle with the same radius as the Teflon gasket positioned on top of the Teflon in between the Teflon gasket and the counterpiston. This would improve your compression as well as strength. Will affect the shattering point of the Teflon gasket too. Hopefully, not as much although unsure.

With this configuration, in case of huge integral compression ( either a single huge compression or a sequence of big compressions ), the Teflon gasket would hopefully shatter before the engine. Hopefully, the edges of the Teflon gasket would break too ( not extremely likely, though ). Then, with the Teflon gasket shattered, there is a distance between the cylinder gasket seating and the Aluminium. In case of Teflon gasket edge shattering and clearance, the compression would either decrease or decrease to a negligible amount which can be considered practically a 0 compression, thus the engine would either continue to work at low compression or would stop. The problem is, however, in case the user manually turns the compression screw and increases the compression by pressing the Aluminium circle to the seating. This would undo the protection. However, in case the user does not do so after the initial maximal compression, the two gasket system ( Teflon and Aluminium ) may provide a better protection than Aluminium only.

Regardless, as I have been saying, I like the idea and the application thereof of the Teflon gasket and I would always be happy to use such with or without extra copper seating gaskets.

In case one wants to try the opposite configuration : cylinder seating, than Aluminium ( extremely thin ), than Teflon gasket, than counterpiston, one is welcome. In this case, the Aluminium would protect the gasket. Must be extremely thin to allow the gasket to shatter. Danger : may melt in case touching the engine. The same applies for Aluminium only gasket : The cylinder and the piston are NOT made of Aluminium as far as I can tell or may be made of Aluminium alloys in some cases. The engine can run very hot which would probably be close to the melting point of Aluminium of 660.3C. The piston would be hotter than the rest.

I am not very sure one would gain an advantage of replacing the Teflon gasket except slight enlargement of the chamber which has positive and negative effect ( difficult to start, lower compression at maximal settings ). Although Aluminium does have some memory ( elasticity ), this is not very high. Thus, Aluminium may bend too.

The aeroplaners may gain an RPM or two by enlarging the chamber ( may even construct a special hemi or cylinder with walls shape ) at the expense of protection. For what I do, I do not seem to care so much of whether I would get a mW or two more power. Take into consideration the dynamos and alternators have so lousy efficiency, nothing what the engine does makes any difference in comparison. 70% is considered a masterpiece which is garbage as compared to the 90% to 99% efficiencies of other systems and devices.

The system has almost fully been reassembled. The tank cap is to be done. Electrical tested and working. Ready for engine break in in aeroplane mode ( engine working without the dynamo ).

For all of you interested, I have received an email from Cox in regards to the availability of Cox original KB crankshafts.

These have not yet been received by Cox from the manufacturer in the USA. The manufacturer would use a different technology to ensure even stronger crankpin. Then the crankshafts will be thermally treated.

I do not know when they will be shipped to Cox but I think they will soon be available, hopefully, before July, 01.

Please, note : the purpose of this post is purely distribution of information which may be useful to those who may wish to purchase a new crankshaft who would soon have Cox International as an option and is not intended to be against Davis Diesel or any other manufacturer or distributor. As mentioned, Davis Diesel crankshafts look OK as well as the materials used. The two companies : Davis Diesel and Cox International have an excellent service and ship within the hours after purchasing using the inexpensive regular mail ( USPS and Canada Post ). As I have mentioned earlier, Davis Diesel crankshaft has been very highly regarded by the Internet. Although I have seen different opinions in regards to Cox International, I am a great supporter of their crankshafts which, as mentioned, I have been heavily abusing for four months. Other than visual estimate which I have clearly said speaks highly for the Davis Diesel crankshaft as well as the information Davis Diesel crankshaft is 100% compatible with the engine as far as assembly is concerned, I am unable to express any other opinion because I have not yet started the engine with the Davis Diesel crankshaft.

As usually, I will provide status reports.

P. S. For the record : I call all thermal processing of anything " tempering " which, I think, is the correct scientific term. However, some people involved with metal processing call tempering the process of heating and SLOWLY heating down the metal to soften or to remove high level of hardness. They do not call the process of heating and FAST heating down in order to harden the material " tempering " whilst I do. This clarification is in case I have ever mentioned something alike.

The internet says everyone can soften their crankshafts by heating to 250C for 2 hours until red hot and then leaving in the air. I am not sure whether the amounts are in favour. Any HARDENED OR HARD metal, heated to red hot and put in the air to stay and heat down slowly would soften unless previously even softer. However, the amount of " softening " depends on how hard the metal originally is, what kind of metal or alloy, to what temperature the metal is heated and at what temperature the metal is put to stay. Some may prefer to heat up to a given temperature, then to put the metal at another, lower temperature and so on until put to stay in the air. In other words, hardening and softening depends heavily on empirical data.

The internet says the said method is OK for softening some crankshafts. Please, refer to robot797 for more information. Also, please, be advised, the Cox Original crankshafts as well as the Davis Diesel crankshafts are extremely inexpensive, between around $13US and $20US and one may wish to purchase these instead of softening old ones. One may prefer to soften an old one and use until broken but a broken pin may bring other consequences. In contrast, crankshafts for cars are extremely expensive and one best machine an old, bent, crankshaft instead of purchasing a brand new third party one. An original one from the manufacturer may cost more than a brand new car.

System reassembled. Ready for beaking in and run. Hope I can do these now. Will post.

The medical Castor Oil which I use clogs the fuel intake. Had to blow and suck for the fuel path to open. The Castor Oil is also very thick, much thicker than the industrial one Cox sells. Should have purchased Cox Castor Oil. Big mistake.

Will try 20% and would lower even more in case of another problem. The viscosity should be the same as 25% or even 30% of Cox Castor Oil. Hope this would help.

Started the engine in aeroplane mode. Once started, runs perfectly. Difficult to start. Hopefully the reason is the thick oil. When intake clogs, the rest of the suction and fuel delivery through the half pipes ( flutes ) into the cylinder is affected too.

Cannot say anything on the Davis Diesel crankshaft except works perfectly well once the engine is up and running. Cannot blame the crankshaft as the clogging is very consistent and happens quickly as well as the hole fuel becomes very thick and difficult to move. The same clogging happened with the previous crankcase and the effect was very similar.

Blew fuel with mouth and primed with Ether. WAITING FOR 6 MINUTES AFTER BLOWING FUEL AND ETHER INTO THE CRANKCASE WAS IMPERATIVE. Does not start without waiting. I think the reason is once fuel is settled well into the crankcase, the crankshaft can more easily deliver the fuel into the cylinder through the half pipes ( flutes ) and the delivery is more intake clogging independent.

Used less than but around 42% Ether, 28% Kerosene, 24% Castor Oil, 5% Cetone Booster. After start, worked perfectly although I have only run the engine at low RPM and rich. Performed a break in for a few minutes and burned around 10mL. Will try 45% Ether, 30% Kerosene, 20% Castor Oil, less than 5% Cetone Booster ( the amount of Kerosene was decreased ). May also try the original mixture just to see the whether starts and works the same. Will definitely lower the amount of Castor Oil to 20% and, probably, even less.

Was through hell again. Also broke another spring. Must never attempt so many starts and never so many full spring starts otherwise will continue to break springs.

The plastic spring nut must be well seated onto the drive plate, otherwise gets damaged and screws up the propeller rotation. Even when well seated, the propeller screw best not be tightened too much. Just enough not to get unscrewed during start up. The reaction of the propeller keeps the screw tightened when the engine works.

Tried to replace the 25% Medical Castor Oil with 12.5% Medical Castor Oil and 12.5% Nautilus Synthetic Two Stroke Marine Oil. No clogs detected. But, did not run. Puffed once or twice and nothing. Same as previous attempts to use this and other oils. Seems like Ether and or Kerosene react with the synthetic oil and loose power.

Some kind of information from this failed attempt : The Davis Diesel crankshaft is amazing and strong like a rock. Attempted forceful non slippery powerful 3000 RPM electric drill with a heavy flywheel effect propeller ( self made ). Got some, hopefully, compression resistance from the engine. Overcome. Afraid for the crankpin. Perfect. Withstood the heavy abuse. Also tried with a slippery tool. Also rotated OK. The crankshaft is perfectly OK. Disassembled the cylinder and the head to inspect. Looks perfect.

Tried a double stage priming. First, primed the fuel line through the unscrewed Fuel Needle Valve with fuel which contained everything like the normal fuel without any Medical Castor Oil ( replaced by synthetic ). Second, primed the air intake with pure Ether. Should not have put synthetic in the first primer. Would work OK under normal circumstances ( normal fuel ).

Remembered I have never been successful with the Medical Castor Oil except the first attempt when I used so and this maybe because I started the engine for a few seconds with only a couple of spring starts. After this, managed to start once or twice with enormous efforts. Pretty sure the Medical Castor Oil clogs and screws up. Will not use any more. Will purchase Cox original when I purchase other components, mainly, one of their new crankshafts when available.

The other good news comes from the total clean up of the engine. Blew all of the remaining fuel through the unscrewed Fuel Needle Valve. Blows OK now.

Anyway, would suspend any efforts until July when I got the Cox Castor Oil which worked OK before.

Will try to purchase assemble a slippery electric drill starting tool. Hose or thick rubber from truck or car tires may do. There will be a circle and a hole on the side which engages the engine and a protruding bolt through the rubber with a half hole on the engine side to hide the bolt. Nuts and washers as normal.

I know they use Amil Nitrate as a booster but, I think, a very powerful explosive liquid, usually Nitrate based, can be of a great advantage to these engines. This will make the start settings insensitive. Obviously, to sustain, fuel is still necessary. However, once the engine starts, mainly at low compression or oil air ( rich start where retardation of advanced liquid is necessary ), the engine is not a sensitive to the settings. Start is hell, though. Hence the necessity of a starter fluid ( primer ). These are available and easy to make but no one does. This will also introduce temperature ( ambient and fuel ) and propeller insensitivity too. To do this, Amil Nitrate may not be strong enough. Something much stronger is needed which would provide a lot of energy and be able to start from one compression, even the weakest and slowest one. Usually, these are either dual liquid ( or multi ) arrangements or a liquid which becomes very unstable when exposed to oxygen and even a finger touch would make this explode like a press of a key. I would put a nuclear bomb inside the cylinder in case I can.

The interesting thing is I have been able to master the start within a few seconds with spring start ( not full ) and I am now back to square one : starting just the engine with nothing attached.

Any ideas, please, give a shout.

When Ether is stored in an air tight container, other than the manufacturer's can, the container must be stored in the freezer. Otherwise, Ether evaporates and, when the airtight contaoner is opened, the fumes escape. There is a huge loss of Ether.

Also, a syringe has to be used instead of pouring because part of the poured Ether evaporates when thin liquid touches the air.

Once the wanted amount is taken, the container has to be immediately closed and immediately put back in the freezer. The fridge is not enough. Must be in the freezer.

Also, I think I have been doing something wrong. I have been trying to slightly increase the temperature of the fuel by dunking a glass into another glass filled with hot water. Although only for seconds, Ether may evapourate. I have been doing so to disolve Castor Oil better. This is wrong. Best mix the freezing ether with the rest of the fuel and mechanically shake. Because the other fluids are at room temperature, the redulting fuel will not be so warm and, hopefully, Ether would not evaporate. Must be loaded in the tank as soon as possible.

During starts, the fuel temperature will increase because of the ambient. Best start quickly.

Because the piston was reset AND the Teflon gasket was assembled dome up, the Teflon gasket was untouched and in perfect order after the run.

Again, the piston comes not reset originally and needs resetting. Resetting may be necessary after the first few runs. This is not only better for the gasket but for the crankshaft too.

I have searched the Internet for a while but I have not been able to find the tool.

I am looking for something made of rubber or silicon which :

1. Has a drill mandrel on one side which goes into an electric drill
2. Has a rubber or silicon cylinder on the other side with a hole in the middle where the nose of the airplane goes in

When the drill spins and the rubber touches the propeller screw nose, the friction drives the engine to start.

Does anyone have something alike? Has anyone heard of such a thing? I have seen one of these on YouTube where someone started the airplane engine this way but I do not know whether these are available to purchase or the person has fabricated one of these.

In case anyone has fabricated such a tool, please, share the ideas and materials. I have been thinking of a possibility to use a hose with an appropriate inner and outer radius as well as a thick piece of rubber from a truck tire.

A better idea I have is to use a large rubber cork cap ( a replacement for standard wine corks ). I think I have seen these in one of the automotive shops around. I have to check the available sizes.

Another idea is to cut from a hockey puck. Sure these are largely available in Canada.

Any other idea, please, inform.