Another new addition

1/2A Nut wrote:Perhaps they ran a fuel line straight to the nipple inside the tank and had a 1oz tank behind the firewall.

That is possible didn't think of that but still to omit a screw would invite an air leak unless there is a short screw inside, I haven't disassembled the engine as of yet so I dunno. Going to rip er apart this evening to find out. (The bandit is curious)

I had one of my bee's do that years back. The screw busted through the plate. I have three cylinders like that but are all #3's. Great buy though, looks good!

If it wasnt done for fuel line feed to the nipple you could opt to use it that way for more duration.

Also could be that someone overtightened, although usually there may be signs of distortion in the cast zinc back. Those backs aren't that strong. Personally I don't like that kind of situation as the tank is now only supported at 3 points at the reed valve. With all the vibration these Bee's receive, that puts stress on the other 3 screw locations and tank front.

You could put a slightly longer screw with flat washer, drill a dimple in the firewall to clear.

GallopingGhostler wrote:Also could be that someone overtightened, although usually there may be signs of distortion in the cast zinc back. Those backs aren't that strong. Personally I don't like that kind of situation as the tank is now only supported at 3 points at the reed valve. With all the vibration these Bee's receive, that puts stress on the other 3 screw locations and tank front.

You could put a slightly longer screw with flat washer, drill a dimple in the firewall to clear.

That's what I think happened and I agree running a bee like this can distort the tank over time and can wallow out the screw holes I don't think it's had a lot of run time with the way it looks so I "Think" it will be ok but that's a maybe since I haven't pulled it apart yet due to other things going on and i haven't had time. Hopefully today I'll be able to get to it and find out what happened and check the tank face and resurface the back of the crank case (if needed) I'll take pics of my findings when I finely get it apart also I've got another BP coming so it's gonna be fixed properly so no need for a linger screw (Bandit)

Update on the QZ took it apart and inspected the internals and just as i though, it has Hardly had any run time at all and the Backplate is defently a pull through resulting from over tightening pics to follow.

As you can see inside the crankcase is almost spotless besides a little spec of debris which I think is from me there is about no residue from fuel or oil. I'm gonna pop the cylinder off and surface the back of the case it needs it btw.

It has the old copper reed and the thing is not even tarnished which leads me to believe that this engine might have never run and might have had a problem which lead to the pull through of the backplate previous owner might have been trying to seal a leak by tightening the tank screws and POP! by by backplate.

Now the innards of the tank, again looks brand new even the inside of the back plate is all nice and shiny could bounce a laser beam off of it the pickup tube is hardly yellow and is still somewhat flexible the venturi seal is in good shape too.

And now the backplate from the looks of the damage, it appears to have happened a while back with the corrosion around the break, it's a shame because this would of been a near perfect find if it weren't for this break

(Bandit)

Bandit, I agree, it doesn't take much to dress the back of the crankcase with a file to remove thread burrs and unevenness.  Although not historic, but a new plastic back will restore it to functionality with the right needle valve. If not a collector item, that engine will fly again.

Personally I'd rather see a flier than a collection. Flight is history in the making.

GallopingGhostler wrote:Bandit, I agree, it doesn't take much to dress the back of the crankcase with a file to remove thread burrs and unevenness.  Although not historic, but a new plastic back will restore it to functionality with the right needle valve. If not a collector item, that engine will fly again.

Personally I'd rather see a flier than a collection. Flight is history in the making.

I agree I like to see them fly too and I plan on installing the correct muffler so I can use it at the field closer to me which is a good bit noise sensitive and requires full mufflers with baffles or electric to fly there I just like keeping things original or close to original as i can I may upgrade the reed to Mylar too and keep the original may build another Skyray or build a baby ringmaster for it. (Bandit)