1/2A stunt trainer design

Well that don't sound bad // with the paint/fuel proofing controls , one light Over powered engine should do the trick        

i see a change is in order for the bipes...
i think i'm going to change the tail feathers from 3/32" balsa to 1/8". i used b grade 3/32 and it snaps way too easy. i had broken the stab twice on the bipe (once by cat sitting on it and once by boy sanding)

i was just brushing the first coat of clear dope on and went to hang it on a hook and a 10" drop has broken the stab and elevator in 3 more places.

now i guess i'm going to cut out the broken tail feathers and replace them with 1/8" sucks!

getback wrote:Well that don't sound bad // with the paint/fuel proofing controls , one light Over powered engine should do the trick        

you know your killing me with all the bits sitting around the tiny little work area of your bench. your giving me cox envy

HERE SHE IS!!

i just need to add the tip weight and balance it.  ohh and i forgot to bring the decal file home for the machine gun so that will be monday....

She's a beaut Roger! A real work of art. Great detail.

Newbie question: why mount the elevator horn on the top?

I love the windshield! Show us the right side of the plane!

Greg

W O W! From Stunt trainer to Well Armed Dog fighter! You do amazing work. I love the flames. Is this the one you're offering as a kit?

Sig Skyray wrote:She's a beaut Roger!  A real work of art.  Great detail.

Newbie question: why mount the elevator horn on the top?

I love the windshield!  Show us the right side of the plane!

Greg

thanks Greg!

elevator horn on top... why not! no real reason other than to bee different. it can bee changed to the bottom

right side

Marleysky wrote:W O W!  From Stunt trainer to  Well Armed Dog fighter!  You do amazing work. I love the flames. Is this the one you're offering as a kit?  

thank you much!

LOL! this isn't even the stunt trainer// this thread got a little... ok mabee A LOT side tracked.

yes, this is the one i'm offering as a kit without the flame fuse bracing. i guess i can add it to the kit for a couple bucks more but, the kit will bee all the wood parts including the pilot and machine gun and also a set of my delrin wheels and wheel spacers. they are tight enough that a little tweak in the landing gear will keep them in place

if anyone wants the firewall i made for this cowl, i will include it along with the oval shaped one. it's from a zep foaming widow cleaner can

She looks fantastic Roger, really polished, well laid out finish. It's Captain Roy Brown after the Red Baron all over again!

Your a fast worker Roger. I have been working on my Cyclone for two weeks now and it's just a monoplane. Just now getting to the painting stage.

Let me know if the price has increased over the $18 I have already sent. Seems like I saw $23 a few responses back. I wouldn't mind the bracing. What did you use for the cowl?

Bob

rsv1cox wrote:Your a fast worker Roger.  I have been working on my Cyclone for two weeks now and it's just a monoplane.  Just now getting to the painting stage.

Let me know if the price has increased over the $18 I have already sent.  Seems like I saw $23 a few responses back.  I wouldn't mind the bracing.  What did you use for the cowl?  

Bob

thanks bob!

i will say that i have had a couple days off and most of the last ten days we have had poor weather and had hoped to do some flying tomorrow but they are now calling for rain and sunday we are getting the remnants of a tropical storm. .hoping to get done building for now and do some flying if the weather ever cooperates!!

i will see what it will cost for the 1/32" ply for the fuse bracing. prolly just a couple dollars.. the $23 price included shipping/ the cowl is the cap off of a can of zep foaming window cleaner. home depot carries it

Awesome finish. She looks great.

Sig Skyray wrote:She's a beaut Roger!  A real work of art.  Great detail.

Newbie question: why mount the elevator horn on the top?

Greg

I like to place the elevator horn on top of the elevator on my models as much as possible, be they C/L or R/C. The reason being that unless you're doing serious aerobatics, most of your elevator inputs tend to be Up elevator instead of Down elevator. That being the case, with the elevator horn on top, most of your pushrod inputs will be in tension, thus no pushrod flex and more positive control.

The Inflexible Mark

Well that make sense inflexible mark...
I also added a third hole for more movement of the elevator.

Can't wait to fly her. The engine has real good compression and running a 5x4 prop. Also going to make up a 35' set of lines. Weighs 3.5 oz finished minus engine

zep foaming window cleaner..Gotta write that down, as I recall you mentioned that earlier. I might be able to use the cap off the Luster Coat red spray can on my Cyclone, then I wouldn't have to paint it to match the fuselage color.

Let me know final $$'s and we will settle up.

Bob

 Roger the bipe looks really GOOD !! But I can see a possible problem with that control rod ?? if were me I would remake one with a smaller bend and put a support in to take care of any flexing  I had a really bad experience with this with my 48 mph speed plane , once in the air and down was applied it would not come out of it and caused me to repair the front section 3 times till I figured out what was wrong the next year ,, and by then had added so much weight to the model slowing it down considerably  It is up to you it is your model just hate to see you go through the same thing and it's easier to fix now than later . Eric

thanks for pointing that out eric.
i don't expect this thing to fly near fast enough to have that issue but, our weather is crap for the next few days so i will take your suggestion and remake the pushrod and add a support

batjac wrote:

Sig Skyray wrote:She's a beaut Roger!  A real work of art.  Great detail.

Newbie question: why mount the elevator horn on the top?

Greg

I like to place the elevator horn on top of the elevator on my models as much as possible, be they C/L or R/C.  The reason being that unless you're doing serious aerobatics, most of your elevator inputs tend to be Up elevator instead of Down elevator.  That being the case, with the elevator horn on top, most of your pushrod inputs will be in tension, thus no pushrod flex and more positive control.

The Inflexible Mark

That arrangement may prove better for the launch-dolly that I'm making. It would place the pushrod and horn higher-up and clear of the cradle that the fuse sits down in between. Having controls under the wing/stab. creates an issue with a pushrod-support hitting the top of the cradle and not allowing the tail to rest on the rails. It's not a huge issue, but rather a design consideration when building the airplane.

Hey Rog, I can't say enough about the bipe! I love it! I mostly choose 1/8" sheet balsa for my tailplane-designs. I think it's a better choice for your bipe. It's a pain to have to build/hinge another tail.. but it'll be stronger and more rigid. The added weight shouldn't be a problem with the long nose-moment. Many scale bipes have much shorter noses.. where you really have to be mindful of tail-heaviness. I'm surprised that the model is as lightweight as it is.. that's great!

On the early machine guns; prior to the interrupter-gear, metal plates were fitted to the blade-tips of the prop, to deflect bullets!

thanks Roddie!

i really appreciate all the compliments and even more, the input from others on every aspect of building and why.  i would hope many can learn from threads like this one.  lots of vary good basic information.

roddie, i ended up piecing this tail back together with the 3/32" thick balsa.  i also ordered "C" 3/32" to cut the tail feathers for the kits from but if i'm not happy with it, i will re-cut the pieces from 1/8". i wanted to stay true to the original kit if possible but, i prefer working with 1/" tail feathers for the reasons you mentioned.  it is a bit nose heavy with the additional ply and cowl but not too bad so the heavier tail would not bee a problem.
the finishing only added a half ounce to the plane and total weight with engine mounted is 6 1/8 ounces,

can't wait for some good flying weather!  i have at least two new planes to fly and a third right behind these 2

BTW roddie.. did you see my "too funny" post in cox engines?? i should have grabbed my phone and taken a picture to go with the story

Replaced pushrod.
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Man you are a push rod FREAK !! that is pretty wild looking I like

I would have run the rod underneath the stabilizer.  Almost no need for bends other than adjustability.

Phil

I am kind of late to the party, but I agree with Phil.

It will probably work fine as is, it's just easier and cleaner to go underneath. Come to think of it I only see top mount control rods on combat planes.