problems with glow-plug

As Mark stated use heat to help loosen any congealed castor (A heat gun works well for this and make sure you use gloves) then use two Cox wrenches one to hold the cylinder and the other for the head and it should come off fairly easy. Most cox Bee type of cylinders have flats ground into the top fin of the cylinder for use with the cox wrench, If however your cylinder has no flats then you have to use the narrow end of the wrench and slip it over the exhaust port Make sure the piston is at bottom Dead center before you do this and make sure the wrench is slipped completely across the exhaust or you can damage the cylinder and you can hold the cylinder that way. Now if for some reason your cylinder does not have flats and the exhaust is of the slit type then you have to get creative and find a way to hold the cylinder usually as stated a *Strap wrench* or like I do make up a clamp out of a strip of wood (Drill a hole approx the size of the cylinder and split it in half and use it like pliers). Now if the head is extra stubborn, you can Heat head/cylinder up hot and then take an ice cube and chill the head Only which will cause the head to suddenly shrink breaking it free from what ever is holding it and it will come off that way. Hope this helps man (Bandit)

Mark Boesen wrote:Get'r hot, or very warm ( caster oil if like glue) use a cox wrench if possible, or tape and pliers, hate to use  compression (wrench) on cylinder as its easy to distort.

If it doesn't have a top flat for leverage, I like to trap the jaws of a Cox wrench in the edge of my vice to keep them from spreading. Taped like Mark says. And slide the exhaust ports all the way into the jaws. Now you have both hands free, and you can apply the heat and ease into the torque to the head until the castor melts and she comes free. Careful not to twist the barrel of the cylinder if you use the exhaust ports.
Rusty

pkrankow wrote:Heat and a leather strap wrench with the correct head wrench.

Phil

plus 1 on Phil's method.  I've used silicone tubing as a wrap around the (heated) cylinder and gently gripped the cylinder thru the tubing with pliers while turning the glow head with the wrench. I will never ever ever stick any thing in or thru the exhaust ports in an attempt to remove a cylinder, or glow head from a cylinder. I think (IMHO) the designers of that Cox wrench did so with the intentions of selling more replacement cylinders!!

Thanks everyone I will try your suggestions.

crs1945 wrote:Thanks everyone I will try your suggestions.

You didn't mention which engine. Before flats were cut on top of the cylinder, two wrenches were supplied with one going past the exhaust ports, the other for the plug.

There was awhile when screens or slotted exhausts were used with no provisions for holding the cylinder. Then someone came up with the flats. If you have one of the interim cylinders I would suggest cutting flats once you get it apart.

Good luck.

George

Well my wife's hair dryer, a ice cube and a padded plier with a little umph and the plug is out. Thanks again!


P.S. It's a Black Widow .049

gcb wrote:... If you have one of the interim cylinders I would suggest cutting flats once you get it apart.

You can cut them to fit a 5/8" wrench. That's what I use to remove the cylinders with the head off, not a perfect fit, but it doesn't gall it.
Rusty

I don't actually pad my pliers (I used too) it is easier to form a loop with the leather that the cylinder fits through, yet is floppy. When you put the wrench on the head with the cylinder in the loop the loop will tighten around the cylinder and offer plenty of leverage with practically no chance of crushing the cylinder or damaging the fins.

Glad it came apart with the hair dryer. Those work pretty good.

Phil