Whirly Bird (TSA 700N Heli) build Finally!

Hi guys as promised here is the build of my TSA 700N helicopter build, bear with me because I have a mess load of pics to post (Have around 150 total) however not all will be posted for sake of size lol. The reason for me posting this build here is I just like to be different from time to time and I think it would be interesting to see one being built. I'm going to keep the text short again due to size so here we go!


First off, I have already assembled the kit, I was originally going to post as I progressed with the build but discovered that it would of been too tedious to do so so I went ahead and completed the build first, well... almost completed I'm still awaiting the FCU Flybarless unit or Flight Control Unit, receiver and such and the install of those will be posted as well.

Anyway here is the first pic which is a layout of the kit contents, which is required to take an inventory of the parts.
All the bags are numbered which correlates with the build manual.


Next pic shows the required tools for assembly or most of them anyway the pic does not include my ball joint sizing tool or my electronic pitch (degree gauge)


Now we have the main bearing blocks that the main rotor shaft (commonly called a mast) rides in. there is a right and wrong way to install these so care has to be taken to observe the manual and orientation. The top block as stated in the manual requires two small M2 button socket head screws to be installed to retain the top bearing since this model lacks a top stop collar for the mast. these attach to the side frames of the mechanics.


Here is a closer look of the top bearing block with the small M2 screws installed. I tell ya those suckers are in there!


Next is the beginning of the assembly of the side frames with the now completed bearing blocks. This is a spot where attention to the manual is required because while the side frames are identical, there is a right and left side which is dictated by the way the little flange bearing for the elevator bell crank is installed so make sure you get the right part number.


Here's a pic with the bearing blocks installed. One thing to note, always use locktite on any screw going into a metal part but not into plastic! If you need to thread lock a screw in plastic, use CA. thread locking compound attacks plastic.


In this pic, it shows the installation of the dampener grommet for the fuel tank.


Next up we have the support plates for the servos. since all flight loads are directly placed onto the servo's in a flybarless helicopter Meaning No fly bar, the servo's take a HUGE amount of punishment which requires metal gear hi torque servos and the plates help reduce the shear loads on the servo's output shaft. The plates them selves don't go on until the servo's are installed.
Only the standoff posts are installed now.


Now it is time for the reinforcing plates for the frames. these are necessary to help keep flex down so as to help prevent from blowing out the bearings. note the bearing blocks.


The drive and tail boom support block is next. This heli uses what is called a torque tube or drive shaft which is driven by the gear assembly you see in the pic. this is another component that receives a bit of punishment. The unit comes preassembled which is nice but it is a good idea to take it apart to make sure things are in good order before you install it in the frames.


Another view of the tail drive block.


Now the fuel tank gets checked out (another preassembled unit) Make sure the clunk moves around the tank.


Pic with the tail boom support/drive assembly installed in the frames along with the rear gyro mounting plate on top.


Top view showing the top bearing block and gyro mounting plate along with the top support plate.


The mechanics are coming together here is a side shot of the frames with the tank installed along with the canopy mounting posts and such. Again double check the manual and check off the steps as you go.


Now it is time to start assembling the drive system, this shows the components that involve the clutch bell and pinion assembly. note the strange holes in the edges of the clutch bell, those are for the magnets for the hall effect RPM governor which simply are glued into the pockets. care must be taken on magnet orientation btw or the governor will not work.


Pic of the pinion gear attached and locktited to the clutch bell with the support bearings and retaining collar. use locktite sparingly especially here so as to keep it out of the small bearing inside the clutch bell for the start shaft.


Finally the clutch bell is assembled in its support block note the coupling for the start shaft. (Note) if any one of you decide to build a TSA kit the clutch block is adjustable so make sure when it is installed that you don't tighten it down until you get the engine installed and the main gear in it. this so you can set the gear mesh. Stock gear ratio for the 700n TSA is 8.4.


Now it is time to prep the engine, here is the engine, some might recognize it but for those that don't it's a YS .91ST which is pressure fuel injected. This is a line up of the fan and clutch components. Make sure you get the spacers in the right place.


Here is the fan and hub assembled all locktited.


Not sure how this pic is going to come out but here is a close up of the fan hub attached to the engine, it uses a pinch bolt setup along with the crank nut. Install the hub and just snug up the pinch bolts then use the crank nut to seat the hub then tighten the pinch bolts. the manual says nothing about proper setup of the fan hub so this is how i've done it on other kits that use the same technique like my Trex 600N for example and btw the fan is not upside down lol.


Ok thats enough right now, I will post more tomarrow once i get home from work I have plenty more! lol.
Till then Take car all (The bandit goes and cools his fingers off in water)