Problem with new 049 TEE DEE

[RK Flyer]

I recently bought a NIB 049 TEE DEE and I cant get the glow head, cylinder or back plate to come off for inspection. I am using the Cox wrench that came with the engine and these are all REALLY tight! I have not tried to start the engine. I wonder if some heat would help or if anyone has a better idea?

Thanks for your help, Richard K.

[Oldenginerod]

I recently bought a NIB 049 TEE DEE and I cant get the glow head, cylinder or back plate to come off for inspection. I am using the Cox wrench that came with the engine and these are all REALLY tight! I have not tried to start the engine. I wonder if some heat would help or if anyone has a better idea?

Thanks for your help, Richard K.

Yep.  Heat's about all you can do.

[Cribbs74]

Does it turn over freely?

If it does fire it on prime a couple times to heat things up. Or you could use a heat gun. The factory lube likes to harden just like the castor. Is there a reason you want to break it down? Cox engines are pretty clean from the factory.

Ron

[RK Flyer]

The only reason I wanted to take it apart was to make sure its clean inside. It does have very good compression & I've only turned it over by hand a couple of times. What type of tank and size should I use? I am not ready to go into a bladder type yet.

Richard K.

[1/2A Nut]

I don't flip over any new procured old stock TD's without adding  oil to
the cylinder and in the venturi. I like to stand them on their nose to
let oil seep down the crank shaft out between the thrust plate and case.
Then I can flip away allowing the oil to break down any old deposits. Of
course run it rich the first few heat cycles just to baby it as these are
pricey to replace.

Not  worth forcing a old new stock engine apart cold, bad things can happen.  
If you have a thin walled TD cylinder you could warp it out of round.

If for RC use:
Sullivan R-1 Standard Round Tank 1 oz S400
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290992304732?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

If for RC duration with a throttle sleeve:
Sullivan R-2 Standard Round Tank 2 oz S401
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331070278352?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


             

[getback]

I use a perfect no.2 3/4 oz. wedge . But you can use bigger just don't put so much fuel in it , a 2 min run is a plenty on the stand to keep from overheating the engine . try and keep the fuel out let as close to or above the fuel nipple for level fuel draw , this will make it a lot easier to start , they can be a pain till you get use to it .

[balogh]

I fly RC and have balloon tanks (party balloons converted to tanks) attached to my TeeDee-s. No foaming, no leaking, no issues with inverted flights etc...and fits best any tank compartment inside the plane.

I also would not force the cylinder and glow head apart. Let it run a few minutes rich and the heat will do the job. I concur Brad saying a brand new TD is best oiled through the exhaust ports and the venturi before the crank is turned over. Many of these engines sat for decades and may have their mating surfaces dried out.

[rsv1cox]

I don't flip over any new procured old stock TD's without adding  oil to
the cylinder and in the venturi. I like to stand them on their nose to
let oil seep down the crank shaft out between the thrust plate and case.
Then I can flip away allowing the oil to break down any old deposits. Of
course run it rich the first few heat cycles just to baby it as these are
pricey to replace.  

             

Such good advise.

I use Remoil, it cleans and lubricates but any good light oil will do. Remoil blows out easily with compressed air and leaves no residue. Yup, stand it on it's nose!!

Bob

[RK Flyer]

Thanks for all the reply's and info. I did use some after run oil before turning the engine over by hand so now I''ll set it up and break it in!

RK Flyer

[Sponsored content]