HELP!!! COX PEE WEE .020

And sorry i forgot to put the glow head and the needle valve in the pic.

Hi Dalton, and welcome to the forum.
You got Ron's attention, and that's a good thing.
Helping each other and swapping info is most of what
we do here. Just to help you get started, here's a
copy of the paperwork that came with the PeeWee.
https://5dbfd882-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/coxengineforumfiles/Cox%20Pee%20Wee%20.020.pdf?attachauth=ANoY7coXHNJs-aEiCwaPD9gD6B0vgvnLsJIPuigwkUG_M_pbF5_aCJhFSA26e0H4pRPS3CJTDjksovC0akAKd339_9ueQI5FpR2u4sRCvehtw1nqCPAMS_Y45tWfZgcslGqYxTjaFw6oIeNWTJSfuMRO7YFCvyvBvbk_9185XQQ3zcjsPFSnsyHzp9E73lnpnjaB_ZX3WyQlC3y-8OgUIzroUz15QSlvS-1iY14FuwlOuILerVT8EfU%3D&attredirects=0
You'll also see at least a few more responses to your
post. Flesh out your profile a little too. You may have
a fellow forum member just around the corner.
Once again, WELCOME!!
Bob(dckrsn)
edit: Also Dalton, check out the "search" feature at the top-left area of the site pages.

I know you probably want to do it all yourself, but Ron's offer is a good one.  The guys here have lots of experience with this sort of thing, and most of us have a store of spare Cox parts.  Also, the instruction sheet that Bob sent should give you a lot of information, including really handy pictures so you can see all the parts and where they go.  I don't really see the need to dismantle the cylinder from the crankcase.  It's easy to clean out like it is.  Normaly you can manage to refit the rod to the crank pin without removing the cylinder.  Just rotate the crankshaft so that the pin is all the way to the bottom and you should be able to slip the rod onto the pin.  If it doesen't go, don't force it, and you'll need to do as Ron suggests and remove the cylinder to be able to get it on.  Don't be tempted to poke something through the two exhaust slots to try to screw the cylinder off.  It will damage the cylinder and probably destroy your chances of ever getting it running.  Also, check that the glow head is good by connecting it to 1.5 volts only.  Don't be tempted to try a higher voltage to make it glow brighter and don't poke around at the little coil of wire which glows in the middle.  A new head will be one of the more expensive parts to replace.

Good luck with it, but just remember to be careful, and don't be afraid to ask.

Rod.

Hi again Dalton, Lots of good advice in the replies! These little engines are jewels.. and will last for years if treated properly. I would personally take Ron (Cribbs74) up on his offer. He's a forum-moderator/long-time member and someone whom you can definitely trust with your engine.

Thank you everybody for the help I have decided i am going to be sending my engine to Ron Cribbs so he can help me get this engine running. Thanks again for all of the replies.

Good move Dalton! Ron knows his stuff, and you'll be receiving a great-running little engine! I hope you continue and expand your involvement in this great hobby!!!

Kim

Sorry, I haven't been on here in a while. Dalton, I live in Henderson. I have a few peewee .020 engines and parts. If you've already sent your engine to Ron, that's cool. Ron is a great guy. If you want some practice and learning how to disassemble and make repairs, I or any of the Las Vegas circle burners would be glad to help. I have a surplus of cox engines and parts. Let me know if you need anything.

Hi there. Just found this thread while googling cox pee wee engines. My 13 year old son and I are trying to rebuild and get operational several cox engines. They’ve been sitting in a box for the last 40 years. The pee wee’s crank shaft broke while we were trying to get it out. I haven’t been able to find one online and I’m afraid to buy an entire engine for parts since they may be just as gunked up as ours was. Anyone have an extra to sell or can point me in the right direction ?

You can still get a case and shaft from Select Hobbies, very hard to find parts.

http://selecthobbies.com/enginepartsdata.htm

Great. Thanks.

This listing on eBay looks like two .020s for parts

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-2-COX-THIMBLE-DROME-Gas-AIRPLANE-ENGINE-1960s/362146897715?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

It does. That’s probably what we should do. Thanks!!

I'm really not sure how you would break the crankshaft by dismantling the engine.  I think you would need to use an awful lot of force.  Just remember, even though these are tough reliable little engines, they are still delicate and easily damaged by incorrect handling.  If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask before doing something you're not sure about.  If the engine was gummed up solid then you need to loosen up the gunk before trying to move anything.  Heat is the best thing for old dried castor oil, but be gentle.  Also, it would be a good idea to get an overhaul kit from either EX Model Engines or Cox International.
http://www.exmodelengines.com/home.php
https://coxengines.ca/

Oldenginerod wrote:I'm really not sure how you would break the crankshaft by dismantling the engine.  I think you would need to use an awful lot of force.  Just remember, even though these are tough reliable little engines, they are still delicate and easily damaged by incorrect handling.  If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask before doing something you're not sure about.  If the engine was gummed up solid then you need to loosen up the gunk before trying to move anything.  Heat is the best thing for old dried castor oil, but be gentle.  Also, it would be a good idea to get an overhaul kit from either EX Model Engines or Cox International.

Yes, it was too much force.  Guilty as charged.  I'm a mom to a fatherless son trying to help with something totally foreign to me. Lesson learned.  I did know enough to order the overhaul kit.  Thanks for the links. I'm sure I'll have questions when we go to put these all back together.

Marymac, where are you located? The Forum has members all over the world, and I am sure someone can help you with the engines.

I have some misc used Pee Wee parts in a bag somewhere, not sure if there is a crank or not but I'll check.

There are several threads and discussions about how to clean up the gum-up, mostly there is heat and solvents involved. Also don't worry about a broken part, we all have broken our fair share of stuff, I know I have

I would like to suggest that it might be better to practice with your 049 size engines (if you have any, that is) first as they are easier to operate, more robust and also most of the parts are readily available.

Kudos to you for participating to and helping with the young fellow's hobby

KariFS I'm in Pennsylvania. I ordered a pee wee from ebay. We'll see if it's good enough to use or at least get the crank shaft from. I will not break another

We are working from a box of old planes and vehicles that were his dad's when he was a kid. There are 3 049's and the pee wee. He wanted to get them all apart and clean at the same time. But we will be just working on one vehicle at a time while putting them back together and we will definitely start with an 049.

So glad I found this forum and will be searching the threads for help as we proceed.

Just curious what models you have?

crankbndr wrote:Just curious what models you have?

We have a Sandblaster. (The discovery of that is what started all of this.) An Eliminator 2 dragster. A Red Knight bi-plane. (That's the 020.) And two "Combat Kittens". They were a balsa wood set by Top Flite that uses cox 049 engines. All are very early 1970's vintage.
The Sandblaster is what we're going to try to get running first.

Dalton and Marymac, welcome to the forum.  

Dalton, that was your best option, sending your engine to Ron, it will come back in perfect running condition. But in the process you learn very little, and half the fun in this hobby is investigating how these little engines work.  Book learning is fine but hands-on is best.

I very sure your engine would run just as you showed it with a little cleaning given that the glow plug is not burned out.  As mentioned previously, heat is your cleaning friend.  An anti-freeze boil in a dedicated pot is best but not for the novice.  Anti-freeze is dangerous in many ways and not really necessary.  Simple Green available in many stores is an acceptable substitute. Just heat it (stove-top or microwave) to slightly less than boiling then place your parts in the mixture.  Use assorted brushes to clean the disassembled parts inside and out.  If they do not come clean the first time, remove the parts and microwave the mixture again repeating the process until your engine is clean.  Tiny brushes are nice to clean the fuel and vent nipples as well as the opening for the needle valve and venturi but a thin wire works too.  

You have the option of cleaning the venturi gasket (little black round donut) and the case gasket separate or with the other parts.  Either way use a light oil (3in1) to treat the case gasket when through otherwise it will dry out and curl.  When all the parts are clean and laid out individually oil lightly (I use RemOil) with 3in1 assemble and flip the propeller over several times.  Even that slightly torn case gasket is ok.  

All this is if your goal is just control line backyard fun.  For more serious work of course you would need a rebuild kit and more serious help.

Good luck

No new engine parts

Marymac, Good that you found the parts engines. There were no crankshafts in my bag of bits, just a couple of cases, tank bowl and a broken backplate...

On this forum you will find a lot of info also on how to clean up the models safely and effectively.

Welcome to the forum and good luck with the "toys"

Welcome new members.
All I can add so far is to get a couple of pairs of safety glasses for using solvent and brushes. You wouldn't want splatter on your prescription glasses, especially if they are the kind that darken in sunlight. And your naked eyes too, of course.

For completely removing oil from engine parts, acetone is a very aggressive, yet fairly safe solvent. Brake parts cleaner from the auto parts store is also a great remover of gummy castor oil deposits. Walmart has inexpensive 16 oz. bottles of acetone in the cosmetics section, just get the clear untinted and unscented bottle. And they carry acetone and brake parts cleaner in the automotive section too. If you get alcohol, find the 90+% bottle.

Paper towels and toothpicks are good supplies. So are the little dental brushes made for cleaning between teeth on the toothbrush aisle. With solvent, they clean out the threads in screw-holes very well. Or if you eat popcorn while you work on your engines.
Good luck,
Rusty